Heavy oil RANT!

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Hey if your engine calls for a 5W-20 then you should use 20W-50 for improved winter protection in cold weather. My cop friend says so and he knows this for a fact because his brother is a mechanic in the army and those guys have to protect heavy duty engines subjected to severe service. Lives depend on using the right oil.

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20 "weight" protects much better than a 5W-20 or even a 5w30 if you have a honda.

Wheeeeeee......................

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Happy Motoring All,

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Bugshu

PS this forum needs purple print options for when we are being sarcastic.
 
Let's look at some numbers. Average starting temperature in Jan. in Buffalo, N.Y. is -8°C. Average starting temperature in Jan. in Manila, PI, is 22°C.

If you use your average 5w30 in Buffalo, your starting viscosity is 1,052 cSt.

If you use your average 15w40 in Manila, your starting viscosity is 304 cSt.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Bugshu:
Hey if your engine calls for a 5W-20 then you should use 20W-50 for improved winter protection in cold weather.

They both have a 20 in the numbers so they must be interchangable.
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But seriously, once on an oil buying bender, I bought 7 quarts of 15w50. Was going to run it in my pickup that I have been running 10w40. Now I just bought some of the $2 Havoline Synthetic 5w30 to mix it down to a reasonable grade so I can use it. I am a thick head, but only thick enough, mostly 10w30 and 10w40. I tend to like thick on the W end for a more robust base oil.
 
Keep in mind this is a forum of a bunch of folks with all kinds of different backgrounds and experiences....we don't all live in Alaska, or Texas, or drive race cars, or drive 4x4s, or drive 100kmiles/month, or "crank'er'up evry Sunday just to move the cat's out"....
This is a web based thing here and I for one love to hear all the different opinions of everyone here, I consider this place a very valuable source of information and "points of view" in particular..
I of course don't take every tidbit as gospel and I don't think many people here blindly follow every piece of advice offered (if they do I've got some property...sorry, back to topic..). I do however listen to all the advice offered and pull out the various tidbits that may apply to "MY PARTICULAR SITUATION" though.

That being said, I agree with the above statements about mfgr recommendations being geared towards CAFE requirements more-so than towards vehicle long term ownership. Mfgrs know that many people lease vehicles or at least sell them every few years...most folks don't keep them forever...but I do.
I routinely use oil thicker than what some folks might consider normal. I don't have a problem swapping out a qt of 20w-50 for a qt of 10w30 at all. I think 15w40 is a favorite party mixer too! I know that I drive easy for the first few miles (and that lots of folks don't
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Point is, this forum is great for seeing all those points of view, there is no way we will all agree on everything here, but that is ok...we are all learning those various points of view...

So ease up ol'buddy, take advantage of the crowd of folks available here,
might just learn somethin
(not being a smart a*s, I just think we ALL learn SOMETHING here)

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Rando
 
If 5w20 was "where it's at" then it would be recommened internationataly by Ford, Hond and Daimler-Chrysler. They in fact make no such recommendation and the fact that they don't resonates as BS with the rest of us. We use 5W20 for warranty purposes, which have nothing to do with CAFE. I think that BMW among others, has some idea how to build an engine and 5w20 isn't one of their warranty requirements.
 
Bad Analogy. The people who buy $50,000 BMW's arent people concerned about gas mileage or sometimes even the lifespan of their cars.

Jerry Seinfield has something like 100 Porsches and I doubt he plans on putting 200K miles on each of them.

Case Tractors puts a fine engine in their products that will outlast most peoples car engines but how many people want a 1070 as an everyday driver?

I do think if you are going to follow manufacturers recommendations that you should use a good 20 viscosity oil and that probably means a synthetic. But we Bitologists ask a a lot of our oils.

Still if we are going to explore fallacious logical assertations then one merely needs to point towards the quality ratings in consumer reports to get a feel whether or not Honda and its 20 viscosity requirements are holding up.

Happy Motoring All,

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Bugshu
 
Bugshu, Why the multiplicity of oil weights for the same car/engine outside of CAFE land? As for the 5w20 question, that ansewer will be be known several years and millions of miles from now. I suspect that it will prove to be an excellent oil for most of us.
 
blazerLT, Please use the heavy duty tin foil for the tin foil bennie!!!!! The mind altering waves of the MK-Ultra microwaves are getting to you!!!!
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Seriously though how long have you been building engines? How long have you been working on engines? How many have you torn down? Ever experimented with different viscosity oils? Have you looked at how well GM vechiles do one thicker then recomended oils? Have you read all the posts about how oil consuption has been reduced on engines by simply going to a thicker oil? Have you read the wounder post Molakule made about HTHS adn bearing wear?

The difference between most 0W40's and a 15W40 or 5W40 is an HTHS number usualy 1 to 2 HTHS points higher! As Terry and TooSlick often point out most 0W40's are not shear stable and quickly shear back to a 0W30. I like 0W40's for a lot of people becasue basicly they end up with a 0W30 with a decent HTHS M1 0W40 is widely available and it has a decent additive package! Now that a lot of Walmarts are carring 5W40 though it is a better way to go for sure!

If the low temp. at night is above 32°F even better if it is 50°F then almost any engine can run a 15W40 with no worrys at all! Your better 15W40's do well with most any temp above 15°F. Most 15W40's are formulated much better then most PCMO's!

If consuption is not an issues I just like people to run an oil that has an HTHS of above 3 preferably above 3.5! You can get a lot of oils that are above 3 inmany different viscositys.

If someone has positive experince with a 15W40, 15W50 or 25W70 are they supposed to keep it to them selfs? I have a sample of M1R 0W30 that is going to be sent off for UOA soon probably this Wensday or Thursday. So as much as I like thicker oil even I am open to try thiner oils. It has been my observation though that most thin oil people are not willing to try a thicker well formulated oil!! No one has proven my wrong yet!

One last thing! Why the different oil recomendations based on geography for identical products?
 
Im not the expert to turn to when making choices about your oil. However, it does bug me when I see people running 20W-50 in cars designed to run 5W-20.

I like a little chocolate topping on my ice cream but that doesnt mean that I want to put a gallon of hersheys best on a single scoop of ben and jerrys.

I think this is what the starter of the thread was pointing towards when he brought the issue up for debate.

People who run 5w30 in Honda's or Fords arent going to see their cars explode tomorrow. But that doesnt mean that a straight 50 weight is the best choice for them either.

There is certainly a lot of distrust in the 5W-20 and/or the OW-20 world of oil and its been debated many times on these boards without a census opinion coming to development.

I came to these boards initially because I wanted to buy a Honda and I didnt trust 20 viscosity oils. I still want the best 20 that I can find so I will have a little fudge factor. And Ive never planned on going 10K between oil changes and abusing the oil to get every last drop of performance out of it.

Certainly there are questions and the answers are debatable. I believe that there may be reasons that Honda engineers recommend the 20 beyond Cafe requirements. Its hard to argue with consumer reports quality ratings of the recent Honda's. We will certainly have a clearer picture as time marches onward.

Bad advice does bug me however and there is lots of bad advice in the world of motor oil and there is lots of misinformation.

A few months ago, I watched an engine explode on a very cold day as the engine was locked down and frozen and the owner insisted on trying to start it over and over to the point where when even the battery was run down he hooked it up to jumper cables. I know in my heart that a OW oil would have cranked to life. The death of an engine involves really ugly noises.

I know if I could go back in time and stand next to him as he bought his oil that a lower W rated oil would save his engine that hed laugh at me and tell me that his grandad in Mississippi ran straight 30 in his truck for 50 years and never had a problem. And hed destroy his engine again.

People dont listen and they dont care and their cars die messy deaths. Its not our problem until we see costs go up because of warranty claims and car values drop because of amortized depreciation numbers and the like.

Then it becomes our problem whether we admit it or not.

If 30 viscosity oil runs fine and you feel its better for you then fine give it a try. It still doesnt mean that if you get some 80W-90 gear oil off the shelf that it would be even more better than the 10w30 you are running.

At some point in time it has to end. People assume that if they hear from somebody who "knows" that 10w30 is better than 5W-20 that 15w40 is better yet and 20W-50 is the best of all. And if you want to put some of that 80W-90 gear oil in your crankcase then that wuld be rally gud ya know.

Sometimes the cars rebel and die horrid deaths and its shameful.

The dealer that denies claims based on improper oil usage gets slammed with lawsuits and lemon laws and it just gets ugly.

Overkill delivers its message.

Happy Motoring All,

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Bugshu
 
quote:

Originally posted by JohnBrowning: If someone has positive experince with a 15W40, 15W50 or 25W70 are they supposed to keep it to them selfs? As much as I like thicker oil even I am open to try thiner oils. It has been my observation though that most thin oil people are not willing to try a thicker well formulated oil![/QB]

This is a good observation.

I certainly use the thinner oils. This is not the thing I have been trying to preach however. Pick the oil thickness you need at your normally running operating temperature then use the lowest W number giving you that same operating viscosity.

Let us not look at operation in the arctic or the race track. At 70 F a 0W- has advantages over a 15W-. The start-up viscosity is lower. This decreases the start-up load on the starter motor, the battery, then the alternator to recharge the battery. Initial running is with reduced friction and the last study I quoted showed reduced friction at operating temperatures.

aehaas
 
quote:

Originally posted by AEHaas:

quote:

Originally posted by JohnBrowning: If someone has positive experince with a 15W40, 15W50 or 25W70 are they supposed to keep it to them selfs? As much as I like thicker oil even I am open to try thiner oils. It has been my observation though that most thin oil people are not willing to try a thicker well formulated oil!
This is a good observation.

I certainly use the thinner oils. This is not the thing I have been trying to preach however. Pick the oil thickness you need at your normally running operating temperature then use the lowest W number giving you that same operating viscosity.

Let us not look at operation in the arctic or the race track. At 70 F a 0W- has advantages over a 15W-. The start-up viscosity is lower. This decreases the start-up load on the starter motor, the battery, then the alternator to recharge the battery. Initial running is with reduced friction and the last study I quoted showed reduced friction at operating temperatures.

aehaas [/QB]

Exactly!
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And quicker warmups and faster flow to the top end and less startup wear.

I don't care where a person lives, 5w40 will protect an engine overal better than a 15w40 even if you are sitting on the equator.
 
BlazerLT you have missed something. Only in NA do you think 40W is thick/heavy etc. The rest of the world thinks that's mid weight. I still remember the first time I tried a 40W (5W40 BP Visco 5000) in my Mazda turbo. I was convinced the engine may blow. Now this was long before discovering BITOG. Realise Mobil will not even import M1 5W30 here, 10W30 is the thinnest. Thers one 0W20 (Fuchs Titan GT1) and no 5W20's I can think of or seen (I have emailed Redline Australia to see if they bring in their 5W20).
Cheers...stephen
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Well I for one am smart enough to admit learning a great deal from AEHaas.

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I have yet to see someone post so eloquently about any advantage towards higher pre W ratings of oils other than prospective reduction of viscosity spread which really isnt an issue in synthetics.

I will take the lowest W rating that I can find thank you very much and Im a believer in what the good doctor is saying.

Now outside of the esteemed AEHaas trying to cram Vioxxx down my crankcase Im appreciative of his efforts.

Post W viscosity is still debatable but Im a believer in prefixes that can play a good game of limbo.

Happy Motoring All,

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Bugshu
 
quote:

Originally posted by sprintman:
BlazerLT you have missed something. Only in NA do you think 40W is thick/heavy etc. The rest of the world thinks that's mid weight. I still remember the first time I tried a 40W (5W40 BP Visco 5000) in my Mazda turbo. I was convinced the engine may blow. Now this was long before discovering BITOG. Realise Mobil will not even import M1 5W30 here, 10W30 is the thinnest. Thers one 0W20 (Fuchs Titan GT1) and no 5W20's I can think of or seen (I have emailed Redline Australia to see if they bring in their 5W20).
Cheers...stephen
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That is true, I am not arguing against the recommended oil.

I am not saying use 5w20 in an engine requiring 5w40.
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Like in my example thread above, a guy was asking for oil for his high mileage 5.0L 1989 Mustang. Instantly a guy chimes up and tells him to use 15w40.....

Why, I don't really care, but it is just plain stupid when a quality 10w30 or even a 5w40 will do.
 
I put Pennzoil 10W30 dino in the Mazda for an Auto-Rx rinse phase. Rattled like a tin of marbles, couldn't wait to get it outa there. Tried M1 0W40 too but noisy and high consumption. Ran 25W70 Penrite Turbo for about 3yrs seemed OK. Currently a Pennzoil Performax 100 5W50/BP Visco 5000 5W40 mix. Rec oil viscosity for this engine in NA is 10W30. The wonders of CAFE.
 
Yes and in NA we aint got no concertoes for the digaroo in our symphony halls.

I think Sibelius wrote one but its rarely performed.

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Happy Motoring All,

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Bugshu
 
quote:

Originally posted by sprintman:
I put Pennzoil 10W30 dino in the Mazda for an Auto-Rx rinse phase. Rattled like a tin of marbles, couldn't wait to get it outa there. Tried M1 0W40 too but noisy and high consumption. Ran 25W70 Penrite Turbo for about 3yrs seemed OK. Currently a Pennzoil Performax 100 5W50/BP Visco 5000 5W40 mix. Rec oil viscosity for this engine in NA is 10W30. The wonders of CAFE.

My '89 MX-6 GT calls for 10W-40. Subsequent years of the same design/engine call for 10w30. I've run 15w40 (Delo) and 5W-40 (Rotella "syn") for my ARX cycles (about to go to rinse #2 with Delo).
 
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