Hard Water?

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I live in an area known for hard water (city water). It has been a problem trying to wash my vehciles but with an absorber towel to dry the car after the problem has been all but eliminated.......until I sealed both my truck and car with Collinite 845. Now the water just rolls right off and by the time I am done drying one section, the next has dried and left hard water deposits.

Its not so much water spots, as it is a smear of sorts. It almost looks like I missed that spot on the car while washing all together. I have been going around with a quick detailer after washing or a microfiber getting the spots that have been smeared by my absorber. Im looking for another way to deal with this aside from investing in a whole house filtration system. How do others with hard water deal with this?

BTW the water is hard enough to turn what was left in the line a rust orange color upon first couple seconds of spraying the hose after sitting for 3 days.
 
You may have to bite the bullet and put in an iron filter and a softener. I used to have well water that was hard, acidic and full of iron, a real pain. That was the only way I could get good water to my faucets. Once I did that, no more problems.
 
To remove the dissolved minerals(hardness minerals) from the water and truly soften the water, only a water softener will work. This is done thru ion exchange. Water softeners will also work to remove ferrous(soluble) iron from water. Softeners will not work if the iron is in the oxidized(ferric) form-only iron filters will work for that.
Some city water supplies use a Poly-phosphate chemical added to the water to keep the iron in solution. However, water softeners will NOT work to remove the iron if your city is using poly-phosphates. The only way to remove iron treated woth poly-phosphates is to heat the water up and then the iron will come out of solution and then you will need to filter it out by an iron filter, preferably that uses air to further oxidize the iron. the best thing to do is to have your water tested to find out wexactly what is in there that is smearing and or leaving the spots, and at what levels etc.
 
Scrap the fancy towels and sacrifice a old bath towel (or 2) to the car. Problem solved. Also note that polish and sealers that "bead up" excessively are more of the issue than the hardness of the water. Next rain storm your dealing with environmental acid rain and pollution beads which can do just as much harm if the sun bakes them in. IMO the best polishes are the ones that drain surface water in a large sheet leaving very few beads behind.
 
Sorry for the confusing reply. I gave a suggestion then a general response which agrees with your choice (a polish that sheets, not beads). Sounds like its related to whatever your using to dry. Perhaps too small taking too much time or not absorbing enough water leaving streaks. I tried the shammys and everything else claiming to dry a car. Some shammys and mystery car drying rags left their own strange grease like deposits. I gave up and went back to 2 used bath towels.
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Can go over the car really fast with them. In 2 mins I have the surface dry, another 5mins getting jambs, etc. Give that a try.
 
I'm going to have a go with bath towels. The main reason for the absorber is the goofy design of the channels in the roof of my truck, which are 9 deep indent ions that hold water. The sides are pretty quick to dry though.
 
If the water is as bad as described, I'd use house water filtered into a garden bucket...and just pour it over the car rather than use a hose....with a good wax job that and the aforementioned old bath towel dragged over the surface should be all you need.
 
Same problem + 100ºF temps in summer and direct sunlight. Solution? Leaf blower...blast the water off and dab at the few remaining drips with a MF towel. Done it that way for almost two decades.
 
Another angle is to wipe down the wet car using Duragloss Aquawax. It was designed for this and works extremely well.....spots be gone!

The Mr. Clean Autodry was discontinued some time ago so finding refills might be a real chore.
 
Thanks guys. I will give the bath towel idea a shot, as well as the aqua wax. I tried the leaf blower but it just didnt feel right, IDK, Ill give it another shot. It sure wont bother me as much as those dang streaks.
 
Originally Posted By: 97f150
Thanks guys. I will give the bath towel idea a shot, as well as the aqua wax. I tried the leaf blower but it just didnt feel right, IDK, Ill give it another shot. It sure wont bother me as much as those dang streaks.


On another note...don't forget to flush your hot water tank every 6 months...you will be amazed what comes out of there.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Jake
Originally Posted By: 97f150
Thanks guys. I will give the bath towel idea a shot, as well as the aqua wax. I tried the leaf blower but it just didnt feel right, IDK, Ill give it another shot. It sure wont bother me as much as those dang streaks.


On another note...don't forget to flush your hot water tank every 6 months...you will be amazed what comes out of there.


Never thought about that. No doubt I will be amazed.
 
Originally Posted By: KitaCam
If the water is as bad as described, I'd use house water filtered into a garden bucket...and just pour it over the car rather than use a hose....with a good wax job that and the aforementioned old bath towel dragged over the surface should be all you need.



SCRATCHES!!!!!!!!

Use a soft, clean terrycloth or microfiber when drying your vehicle.

ONR is supposed to be a good water softener. You can also wash and dry a panel at a time and prevent water spotting during your wash. Also nice for the areas that have water bans
 
MF towels only...old bath towels will scratch and swirl. Many are cotton blends. Not a good material to put on clear/paint.
 
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