For some reason, 2q was not enough MTL to fill my trans even though spec is 1.6q. Upon re-checking it, it was indeed still low and I just topped it with RP GearMax rather than buy more RL MTL. Next change I'll probally need 2q of RL MTL again, so a leftover partial quart would do me no good. Anyway, it's only about 1/4q of RP in 2q of MTL...will it be ok? I'm at 7500mi and probally will change it again at 40k and 90k. Otherwuse, the MTL is really light and smooth, VERY noticable. I'm even looking for an mpg bump.
Had to top-off my RL MTL with some RP Gear Max. Problem?
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PS, the RL MTL is GF-4 and the RP is GL-4/5. There should be no conflict, chemistry-wise, yeah???
Redline stated to me that Royal Purple Synchromax is "compatible" with MTL and won't cause any issues, if that helps you as a data-point. Gearmax (75W90) will be quite a bit heavier than MTL (70W80) and won't have synchro additives.
You could inquire with both companies to see what they say.
You could inquire with both companies to see what they say.
Thanks, I figure 1/4 - 1/3 quart is like a residule amount anyway. I don't mind that it's thicker. It's good to hear "compatible" because the bottle lablel does not say so. I am shortening the change interval to 32k, rather then the 50k I would normally do. Hopefully, next time I will only need 2q.
Hello,
I would think that GL5 oil with EP additives will go through your transmission synchronizers made of light metal (bronze) rather quick.
You should probably only use GL4 oil in that transmission. GL5 oils are GL4 with added EP additivies good for differentials in rear drive cars. DOes not your car specify Honda MTL?
Drain at once.
W115nut
I would think that GL5 oil with EP additives will go through your transmission synchronizers made of light metal (bronze) rather quick.
You should probably only use GL4 oil in that transmission. GL5 oils are GL4 with added EP additivies good for differentials in rear drive cars. DOes not your car specify Honda MTL?
Drain at once.
W115nut
I don't think .4 qt's is enough oil to cause a problem with the chemistry, although it will thicken the oil a bit. I'm no chemist, but most modern gear oils have metal deactivators to prevent the EP adds from attacking the yellow metals. From experience I believe that the deactivators will get used up over the life of the oil, usually at a point before the oil is "used up." However, I don't see this as a problem since the concentration is low in your mix, I wouldn't worry.
I can't speak to whether MTL is too thick in this application or not as I have never driven this vehicle or had one of these gearboxes apart. I do maintain that chemically there should be no problem with the fluid combination in the quantities given above, IMO. I’ve been wrong before however……
RP is dual-rated GL-4 and GL-5 and the RL is a hair thinner then the Honda stuff that shears like crazy anyway.
Hi there,
Transmission failure in a moving car can be fatal. You may experience total transmission lockup if a gear should fail and jam with a broken tooth.
In general, if you drive your vehicle hard, you need to worry about transmission fluid. Otherwise, just use 10W30 in your gearbox and you should be fine.
I had a near death experience in an Isuzu made Chevy Spectrum 10 years ago on the highway. I was lucky that oncoming tractor trailers could avoid me and that a nice crumpling sedan hit after my transmission froze. It used 10W30 oil.
Your mileage may vary of course.
W115nut
Transmission failure in a moving car can be fatal. You may experience total transmission lockup if a gear should fail and jam with a broken tooth.
In general, if you drive your vehicle hard, you need to worry about transmission fluid. Otherwise, just use 10W30 in your gearbox and you should be fine.
I had a near death experience in an Isuzu made Chevy Spectrum 10 years ago on the highway. I was lucky that oncoming tractor trailers could avoid me and that a nice crumpling sedan hit after my transmission froze. It used 10W30 oil.
Your mileage may vary of course.
W115nut
So, you're saying use the same oil that made your transmission freeze and almost kill you? Umm, ok.
Hi there,
I think Isuzu had many issues with their manual transmissions. The engines would last forever but the manual transmission was the weak spot. The same thing was true for Mazda. Guess what they used for transmission fluid, 10W30.
Honda transmissions are usually trouble free with 10W30 and now with their MTF fluid (expensive). You should probably get MTF rather than fooling around.
W115nut
I think Isuzu had many issues with their manual transmissions. The engines would last forever but the manual transmission was the weak spot. The same thing was true for Mazda. Guess what they used for transmission fluid, 10W30.
Honda transmissions are usually trouble free with 10W30 and now with their MTF fluid (expensive). You should probably get MTF rather than fooling around.
W115nut
MolaKule
Staff member
The majority of Honda transmissions require a 75W85 (about a 11.3 cSt viscosity) such as our MTL-P or Redline MTL.
However, some Honda owners have had to go down in viscosity with SynchroGlide, and a few have had to go up to MTL-R to shift properly.
Occasionally, one has to experiment with slightly different fluids to find one that shifts well.
Ahhh, here we go again.
GL5/GL4 dual rated MT specific fluids will not corrode yellow metals.
However, some Honda owners have had to go down in viscosity with SynchroGlide, and a few have had to go up to MTL-R to shift properly.
Occasionally, one has to experiment with slightly different fluids to find one that shifts well.
Ahhh, here we go again.
GL5/GL4 dual rated MT specific fluids will not corrode yellow metals.
Oye.
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