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- Thread starter Warstud
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I love the ratings on all this it makes any other exaggeration such as peak watts vs rms watts in car audio look very small.
CAR STARTER NOW WITH 150000 PEAK Incandescent AMPS for (.00000001 second.)
I do realize gooloo is one of the best Chinese brands for this sort of product.
CAR STARTER NOW WITH 150000 PEAK Incandescent AMPS for (.00000001 second.)
I do realize gooloo is one of the best Chinese brands for this sort of product.
1500 amps? At 12 volts? So, this a jump pack? And they claim 1500 amps from the battery? Through what wire gauge?
Let's see, the owner's manual says this: DC output 12-16.8V DC, 10 AMP
How then, can they label it as a 1500 amp, when they state that it puts out 10 amps?
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If anyone's wondering, the Gooloo GT1500A will jump start a Cummins L9
I have three of the GooLoo GP 2000 models. I've been happy with them. That's about $10 less than I paid. A lot of people are getting the GP4000 now which probably helps with the price on these.
Start Current/Peak Current 750Amp/1500Amp
peak current is usually the max current for 30milliseconds.
10amps is probably DC power mode.
(that is for the battery tender jumper.. sorry for sorta off topic)
The starting amps is still available for only a tiny time period
likely The CA or CCA of the 1500amp is no more than 150-200amps esp if its cold from being in car.
I bought the 4000 yellow a few years ago, it jump starts everything I have used it on inc old big cube 455 V8. I bought another for my wifes car.
You could definately use another .
Use the Noco GB70 2000AMP at work. Some cars need them 2 in parallel to jump start.
2 on Wagoneers for sure and had to use 2 on an Elantra this week.
Less cool looking but I've used a 12v 18ah SLA battery for jump starts. $30.
Thanks for the notice. Bought 2 of the GP3000, $129 total delivered; with a 5% discount if you buy 2 products. One for a gift and one for my use.
One in each vehicle.
Directly from Battery Tender below..
the 1500 A jump starter will attempt five consecutive jump starts, Each attempt lasts 3.5 seconds with a 1/2 second pause between each attempt. During the 3.5 second period the full current source of 1500 A is available to start the engine. If a successful engine start is not detected an error is indicated and no additional jump starts are attempted.
The amount of current flow available from the jump pack is dependent upon a number of factors: state of charger, state of health, age, temperature, etc.
That's useless if something needs a min or two of cranking to fire.
Jump and Carry 660 or 12/24 work fine.
Yeah, rating a device, based on a millisecond long peak current, is silly. That’s my point. I get how they work. “The full current source“ is some serious obfuscation.
That is why I quoted the company literature (which I read) in my post.
The sustained output is actually ten amps.
Ten.
It’s a ten amp jump pack.
These devices work best if your car battery is recently dead. It's not really meant to start something that hasn't ran in a while, so as long as it has enough juice to crank a car over a few times that's all it really needs.
