Good result so far, ATF+4 in Honda Z1

[Audi Junkie]

I bailed out and put in Castrol HMMV, 3q. The trans has an issue when it's cold it fails to de-rev before shifing between gears. It might just be the dual throttle cable adjustment. I don't really think there is a thing wrong with the ATF+4, it's just that Castrol HMMV is pretty much the product I've been looking for, long term. It really just came to market, and I decided the money was a non-issue.

Remember, I just ran Auto-Rx and needed to flush it, the ATF+4 being just that and a test. I don't think I have to mess with it for a while. Once yearly in Spring is my interval, if it makes it that far.

fwiw, I dropped it right in AZ parking lot and recycled there. I'll take that liberty once in a blue moon, my driveway is a snow pile.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
I bailed out and put in Castrol HMMV, 3q. The trans has an issue when it's cold it fails to de-rev before shifing between gears. It might just be the dual throttle cable adjustment.

Has it solved your problem?

 

[Audi Junkie]

No. I don't drive it every day though.

 

[towncar]

I've finally flushed my '94 Sterling 827 transmission, (its honda 2.7 engine and transmission) with 8 litres of Mopar ATF+4.

Actually had to add another 1 litre because the dipstick was dry, then i founded out that it shows maximum, so i dropped 0.8l and added 0.5 and its between marks now. I didn't know that it takes so little to make big difference on the dipstick. Its kind of hard to set a correct level.

Anyway previous owner changed fluid at 160kkm with Dexron III, now its 216kkm and i flushed it with that Mopar. Will see how it goes, hope my transmission won't go bad. The old oil wasn't burnt although not that clear as new Mopar. I also installed an external cooler with a small fan.

The differences: actually i can't see any, the 1-2 shifting is still harsh but i guess the bands might be already weared off by using dexron. But i dont mind, as long as its working, there is no any slipping or anything like that.


The reason i haven't used genuine hondamatic, is because in my country (Poland) ATF-Z1 is ~$45 per litre! robbery huh?
So i bought two four litres cans of Mopar ATF+4 /$57 each, and three 1 litre bottles what are sold for $20 each. Regular Dexron is just a little bit cheaper then Mopar.

 

[CharBaby]

towncar,
Those transmissions in your Sterling did not usually have any issues. The Sterling was using the same drivetrain as the original Acura Legend sold here in the US. Honda had owned a great deal of stock in Austin Rovor during the late 80's and early 90's. Just a bit of trivia! Although I don't know if they still do.

 

[rcy]

Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
I reset the ECUs by taking off the (+) wire and touching it to the (-) post via a wrench. Not for the faint-hearted, but I do it all the time. It cleared the ECL and reset the TCU.



Can doing this not short something out? Don't have a clue, that's why I'm asking. Couldn't you just leave the negative cable off overnight or something?

 

[Audi Junkie]

Short? The battery is disconnected. All it does is discharge all the ambient current, just like leaving it disconnected does.

 

[Audi Junkie]

Originally Posted By: towncar
I've finally flushed my '94 Sterling 827 transmission, (its honda 2.7 engine and transmission) with 8 litres of Mopar ATF+4.

Actually had to add another 1 litre because the dipstick was dry, then i founded out that it shows maximum, so i dropped 0.8l and added 0.5 and its between marks now. I didn't know that it takes so little to make big difference on the dipstick. Its kind of hard to set a correct level.

Anyway previous owner changed fluid at 160kkm with Dexron III, now its 216kkm and i flushed it with that Mopar. Will see how it goes, hope my transmission won't go bad. The old oil wasn't burnt although not that clear as new Mopar. I also installed an external cooler with a small fan.

The differences: actually i can't see any, the 1-2 shifting is still harsh but i guess the bands might be already weared off by using dexron. But i dont mind, as long as its working, there is no any slipping or anything like that.


The reason i haven't used genuine hondamatic, is because in my country (Poland) ATF-Z1 is ~$45 per litre! robbery huh?
So i bought two four litres cans of Mopar ATF+4 /$57 each, and three 1 litre bottles what are sold for $20 each. Regular Dexron is just a little bit cheaper then Mopar.



Cool. +4 is a very new fluid, 2005, iirc.

 

[sunfire]

Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
I reset the ECUs by taking off the (+) wire and touching it to the (-) post via a wrench. Not for the faint-hearted, but I do it all the time. It cleared the ECL and reset the TCU.


I thought this was a joke... but it sounds like you are really doing this. There is residual power in the ECU (car's computer) and thats what you are trying to drain out to reset it.

I disconnect the negative terminal. Put the key in (don't start the car) turn on the head lights for 3 sec. Then step on the brake for 3 seconds. Obviously the lights won't turn on but its actually draining any remaining power left in the car. Reconnect the negative terminal. My car's clock will be set to 1:00, so I know the ECU has been reset successfully.

This procedure came from toyo nation. Another bitoger tried this and some how he had shifting problems after... which I find comical.

 

[sunfire]

BTW, how is the ATF+4 holding up?

 

[PandaBear]

AudiJunkie,

To "safely" discharge something you should always use a resistor load, I'm not sure how big of a cap it has in the system, but if I were you I will at least connect a bulb or a resistor to drain it, or let it discharge (via internal load in the ECU or the car) for about 5 mins. I've seen fireworks from charged/shorted cap and it ain't pretty.

 

[sunfire]

I knew you were some sort of Engineer when I read your explanation. But I like your method too.

 

[Audi Junkie]

ATF+4 is long gone in favour of Castrol HM ATF.

 

[joegreen]

Well I'm bringing up an old thread. How have the different atfs worked out 10 years later?Do you even have the vehicle anymore? I have an 02 Accord 4cyl with the baxa transmission that I have been trying all sorts of different atf and atf combos in. Any other Honda guys try other fluids or additives?

 

[meep]

I tried walking away from the honda ATF spec a long time ago in an 01 accord and a 97 CRV.

01 Accord - M1 syn ATF + LG Black. very close to honda feel, quieter trans, loss of mpg. M1 ATF was thicker. ran for quite some time after that with no issues.

97 CRV. Tried maxlife that bitog raves about. Shift quality firmed up a little. I liked it. in 15000 miles or so it got firmer and then started to hang in gear instead of upshifting. Shifts became violent and sometimes it wouldn't shift at all. Flushed it to Z1 and it improved but was never quite right again.

 

[MolaKule]

Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie


...Driving is completely diffrent, more so than any ATF change I've done. Dex, Z1, MaxLife, M1+LG, Z1+AMSoil+ARX and now the ATF+4. Dropping it into D, the trans reacts more quickly getting into gear. Less slop on take off from start. More positive GAS pedal feel. Smoother. Quieter. Shifts are far from being quick or firm. No sensation of slipping, but it's a soft shift.

I'm happy for now. If it acts up, I'll toss in another 4oz of ARX and drive it a 1000 or 2000 miles and try some M1 ATF that is a bit grippier. Remember, when I used M1+LG, shifts were nice at first and then got pretty hard 6 mo/8k later...



It's no wonder the shifts are soft because the ATF+4 is more friction modified.

So what exactly do you have in there now?

If you did not completely exchange ALL of the old fluid and replace it solely with ATF+4 you have an unknown mix of fluids in there with an unknown set of dynamic friction modification.

BTW, putting in something like ARX is a no no

because it changes your dynamic friction coefficients.

I think you are playing with fire.