Going to do my own oil changes! Don't laugh!

[FoxS]

I've been increasing the car work that I do myself but with my trusted mechanic charging $15 - $25 for an oil change, it just didn't seem worth the trouble to DIY that in terms of getting under the car, clean up and disposal.

However, he seems to have gotten busy and unresponsive and I wasn't too happy with his attitude after a 6 hour labor job where I supplied parts. So I decided to start minimizing the times I give work to others, starting with my next oil changes.

So I've decided to buy the following.

16000lb Rhino Ramps. Though the heaviest vehicle I have is 4000lbs, its front tires are just a marginally wider than the max for the 12000lb ramps and the rear tires are also marginally wider than the max for the 16000lb ramps. I think the difference is negligible but I'm planning at one stage to change the rear differential oil.

No Fumoto valves (yet). Firstly there is a evidence that they sometimes protrude into the pan and some oil wont drain, and also some suggestion that this combined with the slower drain speed may leave more sludgy material in the pan.

One of my vehicles oil drain holes will spill oil over a reinforcement cross member so I'll shape some foil for that and look at buying a form a funnel after. I'll use that technique for a filter too. If its difficult to keep the area around the oil drain hole clean, then I might go for the Fumoto. I'll measure the female thread depth to be sure any Fumoto valve will not protrude.

I'm looking to buy a high capacity drain pan as I have 9 quarts to drain and also have 14 quarts of ATF that I'd like to drain. I'm deciding between something with a 5 gallon capacity vs one with 11 quart capacity that has a place to stand the oil filter. I'm probably going to go with the larger one as I don't like the idea of shuffling the smaller capacity one.

I'm getting some rubber mats from HF that the ramps will go on and maybe also for my back. I have an epoxy floor so am thinking of not putting down anything for oil spills as its easier to wipe them then have cardboard soaked in oil.

Apart from that I'll buy some crush washers, nitrile gloves, shop towels, oil filter cap for the Mercedes, oil filter wrench, wheel chocks, brake cleaner and torque wrenches. I may need levellers or some 2x12 planks since the Merc is low clearance.

I may buy some jack stands too as there is a great offer at HF on the 3 tons.

Anything else you would suggest? It's a long list which is kind of why I was happy with paying $15 & $25 once a year! I have the oil and filters and even funnels!

 

[The Critic]

First, tell us the yr/make/model/engine of the cars that you will be working on...it may allow us to give more specific advice.

 

[FoxS]

2009 CLK Convertible
2003 Sable Duratec

 

[hisilver]

A good hand/arm cleaner like lava or fast orange is always useful.

 

[ADFD1]

I won't laugh, you will, all the way to the bank! My father and uncle taught me, the way they taught me was telling me how much I'd save by doing the job myself, then showing me how. Then they told me to take that savings and bank it, or invest half in tools that I needed and bank the other half. When I lived in NY labor was about $80-$100 an hour, and the shops would almost double the wholesale cost on parts. It added up fast. Imagine doing a starter and an oil change totaling 1.5 hours [some cars even more], and saving close to $50-$100 on the starter, just for the part. Not too shabby in my book. As far as oil changes, [oil changes are usually loss leaders], so unless you bring the oil and filter, then watch you never know what you're going to get put in the car. I was from NY, cheating customers was a common event. Good on you for taking the plunge. Your initial investment will pay some hefty dividends in short order! Odds are the end game will be better too.

 

[Clevy]

Good on ya for taking some initiative.
I never am able to drive up ramps,they always shoot out on me.
So I bought a rolling jack and jack stands. Jack up car,put stands under control arms and done.
Just another option for you. Napa has a filter special every year. I stock up on napa golds at that time. It was last month. Maybe contact Pablo and buy a box of filters. Shipped to your door is a nice touch.
Well enjoy your newfound freedom. Car maintenance is soothing and I find it very relaxing.

 

[surfstar]

I prefer a jack + stands for rotating tires (not to mention brakes, etc).

Sounds like you're on the right track. Once you stock up on FAR (free after rebate) oil and filters, then you really start recouping the tool and time cost.

 

[FoxS]

I have plenty of FAR oil but alas have to open the wallet for the Mercedes oil.

I have been giving that to various shops that take it but they don't like it! They seem to have short memories / lack some forward thinking.

I thought about a jack and stands but its ultimately more expensive than ramps, would seem to take longer, seems to have less rated holding and I have discount tire rotate tires on one vehicle while the other cant be rotated. Plus I think ramps are safer in an earthquake. The Mercedes also needs special equipment for lifting and for the stands. So for oil changes only, it gets expensive.

I calculate with ramps and other equipment, I get payback in 2 years on oil changes only.

I am though probably going to pick up some stands at HF because there is a deal. I'll wait to get a deal on a jack and also I need to figure out which jack and accompanying parts are needed to lift the Mercedes.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Who needs jack and/or jack stand and/or ramp to do oil change in a MB ?

What you need is a fluid extractor and an oil filter cap wrench.

 

[FoxS]

Yes but I need ramps for my other car and for my Merc the recommended procedure is through the oil drain plug.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: FoxS
No Fumoto valves (yet). Firstly there is a evidence that they sometimes protrude into the pan and some oil wont drain, and also some suggestion that this combined with the slower drain speed may leave more sludgy material in the pan.

I'm sure you've read my posts on the matter before. I think they're fantastic, but one does have to make sure they're a good fit for the application. At least in my G, I get nothing extra out by removing the Fumoto. I can be pretty picky, so you can be sure if I thought it was going to be hanging onto extra oil, I'd be tossing it in the trash.

Clevy brings up a point about ramps, but it looks like you're aware of the issue of them being spit out when trying to go up or down them on too smooth of a surface with too smooth of a ramp material.

I'd go with the large capacity drain pan, too. It's funny when someone drains a Cummins or PowerStroke into a tiny drain pan. It's not funny when I do it.

 

[SteveSRT8]

No matter the type a car is safer and more accessible on a properly placed jack stand. My car is less than 4 inches off the ground thus ramps don't work well unless they are very long. Plus you need to see the suspension and be able to check for play, etc., during your servicing. get some flat topped stands and a nice low profile jack and you can put any car up in the air, you simply need the correct diagram to show you the points of placement.

How do you plan to drain 14 qts. of trans fluid? If you are doing an exchange via the cooler lines that will work, but otherwise you can only drain a portion of your fluid even with a torque converter plug.

And I am the person who complained of sludgy build up in one of my service vans after long term Fumoto use. I took EVERY one off as they are not really a huge thing on any of our trucks and my car is always a pain no matter how you approach it.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
No matter the type a car is safer and more accessible on a properly placed jack stand.

Absolutely. Jack stands are fantastic, and having plenty of them made for very easy tire rotations on the taxis.

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
I took EVERY one off as they are not really a huge thing on any of our trucks and my car is always a pain no matter how you approach it.

You service a lot of the Chev trucks, do you not? Aren't the filters and drain plug in fantastic spots?

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
No matter the type a car is safer and more accessible on a properly placed jack stand.

Absolutely. Jack stands are fantastic, and having plenty of them made for very easy tire rotations on the taxis.

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
I took EVERY one off as they are not really a huge thing on any of our trucks and my car is always a pain no matter how you approach it.

You service a lot of the Chev trucks, do you not? Aren't the filters and drain plug in fantastic spots?

Take a look at OP's sable. If it's in the same spot as the vulcan ... you will end up burning youself getting to the oil filter. IIRC, it was under the exhaust manifold!

My uncle's 1991 305 has it in an odd place. Can't remember where, though.

 

[Garak]

The last 305 I did stuff in was probably a 1990, and it was fine, like the older ones. As for the Sable, a buddy had one; I don't remember the year, but I believe it was a V6. He was down on his luck so I donated one of my Wix 51515 filters to him and helped him with the change. I do recall it was in a difficult spot, and it wasn't easy squeezing the 51515 in there. I'm guessing it specified the shorty.

 

[Doog]

Originally Posted By: FoxS
I have plenty of FAR oil but alas have to open the wallet for the Mercedes oil.



Walmart Mobil1 0w40

 

[KrisZ]

I agree with others about not getting the ramps. You said yourself that doing oil changes is just a start, if so, then things like brakes, suspension and wheel bearing inspections will require a floor jack and jack stands.

It's your preference of course, but I never liked ramps and I find that a floor jack and jack stand combo works much better and takes up a lot less room in my small garage.

 

[FoxS]

Thanks for the feedback

I'll take a look at the jack option

I'm most interested in the safety and stability. Why do you think jacks are safer than ramps?

I may buy some jack stands as well as ramps and place them as additional support / failsafe. Then when I come to a brake job or brake flush, I'll buy a jack that will work on the low profile Mercedes.

I'm also thinking I'll buy extended filters for the Sable and change every 2 years seeing that it sees 5k a year.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Make sure you understand we mean "properly placed" jacks and jackstands are better. They also have more potential to hurt you or your car if you don't know exactly how to use them.

 

[FoxS]

Of course I'm interested to know why properly placed jacks are better!