Give us your general theory on oil etc.

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Originally Posted By: zulu
My general rule of thumb is that the manufacturer knows a heck of a lot more than I do, so:





The manufacturer tells you what he wants to tell you rather than what he knows.
 
Any sale or closeout synthetic oil of the recommeded viscosity along with a factory or pureone or wix filter and 5000 OCI has you covered.
 
Originally Posted By: callbay
Just in a general sence without telling about your specific vehicles.

But the specific vehicle/engine and operating conditions are probably the biggest part of the whole equation. Without taking these into consideration, it all becomes rather useless generalization that does not help anyone.
 
Originally Posted By: saaber1
Educate yourself on oil and then use the best oil available for your specific car based on what you know.

Use the owner's manual, UOAs, other poeple's opinions and experiences, marketing info., and manufacturers specs. only as sources of information to help guide you, not as definitive authorities.

Do not take the owner's manual recommendations or manufacturer's specs. for oil on authority, question them, as they can be either right-on, wrong, inadequate, or based heavily on marketing concerns rather than what is best for your car (varies by manufacturer and model, some owners manuals may be dead-on while others may be way off).



+1

...but i will add that when the results meet the above,then oils well that ends well.
 
Originally Posted By: levi
I believe in using whatever oil is on sale, not picky at all about the weight, dino most of the time, for an OCI of 5K and any filter other than Fram.
If it's SM you are probably OK for average use.
 
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I am of the opinion that if it meets SM specs, brand doesn;t matter. Follow the owners manual on weight and OCI as well as any other specifics such as GM4718m.
 
Originally Posted By: cjcride
Originally Posted By: levi
I believe in using whatever oil is on sale, not picky at all about the weight, dino most of the time, for an OCI of 5K and any filter other than Fram.
If it's SM you are probably OK for average use.


Man, I sure hope so. Been using this regimen for many years. (Except that I used to use Fram oil filters.)

I've got a 92 Silhouette with 267K that uses no oil. A 98 Sable with 205K that uses no oil. And a 94 Prizm with 167k that uses no oil. They all run as smooth as tops, as the expression goes.
 
2 parts conv 5w30, 1 part conv 5w20, 1.5 part synth 5w30 in winter, change every 3000 miles. new filter every other time. brand does not matter.
2 parts conv 5w30, 1.5 part synth 5w30, 1 part synth 10w30 in summer, change every 4-5000 miles. new filter every other time. brand does not matter.

make sure oil is SM.
 
I believe the best oil/filter is the one designed, engineered, and recommended by oem. Like Motorcraft, Toyota, Honda, etc. I've seen voa's on these and they seem to have additive packages that reflect the engine design of each manufacturer.

For me it is Motorcraft oil/filter @ 5000 oci.
 
I have a couple beliefs:

Max 5K OCI.

Moly disulfide supplements every other oil change.

3K to 4K OCI in the winter (definitly closer to 3K if a lot is short trip city driving).

4500 OCI in the summer.

Due to SM zinc quotas I put an extra 300 to 400 ppms zinc in my oil, both in summer and winter. I use a MoS2 engine treatment in the summer, but not in the winter out of concern for potential moisture/sulfur problems.

Brand: I'm open to many. I like Havoline, Chevron, Mobil 1, Valvoline synth, Pennzoil, and Kendall.

Viscosity:
5w30 in the winter. In the summer, 3 quarts of 10w30 dino plus one quart 10w40 synth or blend, or alternatively, 3 qts 5w30 blend, one quart 15w40 dino.
 
My theory is that most conventional oils are just as good as any other for most people's driving applications for a 3k-5k OCI. Driving habits and conditions affect the oil and certain engines perform better with a particular oil. Syntetic oils should be used for an extended OCI and severe driving conditions (short trips, extreme temps, dusty conditions, pulling a load).
 
I agree with otis24 100%. I like 3000 oci as it gives me a chance to check other things out on a regular basis. Better in the driveway than on the highway.So the one car that is all short distance syn. the other that is a mix of hwy and street, dino all at 3,000.With all the deals you can get now this is really not that expensive. I am on a fixed income too.So I have to be careful on how I handle oci.
 
Originally Posted By: otis24
My theory is that most conventional oils are just as good as any other for most people's driving applications for a 3k-5k OCI. Driving habits and conditions affect the oil and certain engines perform better with a particular oil. Syntetic oils should be used for an extended OCI and severe driving conditions (short trips, extreme temps, dusty conditions, pulling a load).


To clarify: I generally do 5k-6k mile OCI's and use synthetic motor oil. I consider my driving to be extreme: a lot of short trips (3 miles or less) and arctic temps. While many would not consider 5k-6k OCI's as "extended", I feel comfortable with these OCI's given my driving conditions.
 
Id have to agree - conventional unless one clearly has extreme conditions and even then I am not convinced, given the quality of most dino these days.

I use the factory OCI and dino. After years of getting sucked in by the synthetic hype. I am on a very fixed income too and can't spend the money on the so-called syhthetics.
 
If thinner is better, the Europeans and the Subaru crowd are Sooooooo behind the times. Now the diesel guys I can understand since they have such loose tolerance engines.
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