G-oil and overheated engine.

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Howdy fellow oilers and lovers of all things oil.

Here's the story. Yesterday was my uncles funeral, (very nice and well done btw). I took my Dad in my car, (1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass 3.1) as it's easier for him to get in and out, (he's 94). On the way home, we decided to ride around a little since he hasn't been out of the house in quite some time. Went to some of his old stomping grounds and did a lot of low speed driving so he could see and do some "remembering." Visited another cemetary where more of the family is buried and saw the graves, etc. He has a hard time walking, so we would simply pull up and look from the roadway. Did this for a couple of hours before heading home.

The problem. The cooling fan for the radiator died some time back. I never replaced it because at highway speeds, the car runs cool without the fan, (temp mark is always at 1/4). Even on a Florida summer day, it rarely goes to 1/2 except at a stop light, then it will start to climb and will approach 1/2 but usually the light will then turn green and I can drive which will cool it back down again. I've driven it this way for two years with no problem. Yesterday, I was enjoying being with my Dad so much and he was having such a good time being out and about that I forgot to keep and eye on the temp guage. We're sitting there chatting with the car running and I happened to look down at the temp guage which was pegged red hot. YIKES!!!! We quickly got out on the road and got into some slow traffic. Car ran hot all the way home, (several miles) and finally, when we pulled in the yard, it had cooled down to the 3/4 mark. I shut the motor off and raised the hood to allow all that heat to escape, (motor was very hot).

The question. Last time I changed the oil in this car, I used "G-oil", (the enviormentally friendly stuff - synthetic 10W30). When the car finally cooled after a couple of hours of sitting in the shade with the hood up, I checked the oil. It's at the full level, but it is a dark brown color, (like strong iced tea). Oil has 1,000 miles on it. Now, if this were a dino oil, I wouldn't be worried, but being it's a veggie based oil, I am somewhat concerned that maybe I "cooked" the oil. Is this a possibility? I've got a free day today and would have time to change the oil but at the same time, hate to toss a perfectly good oil due to being paranoid.

What say you guys - am I over reacting and worrying, or should I get out there and change my super heated oil? Car runs fine so I didn't do any damage to the engine, just a little concerned as to what might have happened to the oil.
 
I don't think you would have "cooked" the oil any more than another quality synthetic. G-OIL is a bio-based synthetic; it's not vegetable based.
 
You say the temp gauge is at 1/4 normal high, which leads me to believe that the stat is bad or maybe was removed because the fan wasn't working. I would change the thermostate, fix the fan. The oil should be OK. Ed
 
If it was conventional, you wouldn't be worried, but since it's G-oil you're worried? Hmm.

I would say G-oil would be more along the lines of a synthetic. They don't just pour Veggie oil into motor oil containers
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The stuff gets processed and stabilized.
As a little note: good thing you had 10w30 in there too, I bet the NOACK just came in handy for that little incident.

So with the oil turning dark suddenly, it probably just oxidized about 2000miles worth or so, so simply cutting your OCI down by that much would be what I'd do.

On another note, that was a really cool thing you did for your pops, man. Really thoughtful of you to take him around like that.
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If you weren't blown coolant all over the place you didn't get it hot enough to hurt anything. I had a mercury mistake with the 2.5 all aluminum engine and the water pump went out , To get home i drove the car till the guage pegged at hot pulled over let it cool repeated this cycle four of five times until i got home . Maybe lucky for me but no damage was done, while doing this it never boiled hard but you could here it perculate in the engine and overflow, and i was running maxlife 5w30.
 
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On a track day with neon, the temperature gauge never gets below 3/4 which was something like 220, 230 is pegged. So it's not really much above normal temps. After my crash, the highest recorded temp was 260f!!! It still drove fine for a year after that.
Anyways, I didn't think about or change the oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
You say the temp gauge is at 1/4 normal high, which leads me to believe that the stat is bad or maybe was removed because the fan wasn't working. I would change the thermostate, fix the fan. The oil should be OK. Ed


While still possible, seemingly all the GMs of that era are like that. I think the gauge/sending units are scaled odd. I can think of several cars/trucks off the top of my head that behave like that, including my wife's car.
 
Originally Posted By: GreeCguy
What say you guys - am I over reacting and worrying, or should I get out there and change my super heated oil? Car runs fine so I didn't do any damage to the engine, just a little concerned as to what might have happened to the oil.


Honestly, engine oil is inexpensive enough to change it now, and give your mind confidence that you are doing your best to protect the engine.

BC.
 
Originally Posted By: GreeCguy
The problem. The cooling fan for the radiator died some time back. I never replaced it because at highway speeds, the car runs cool without the fan, (temp mark is always at 1/4).


Fix the fan, then change the oil.
 
Since your engine probably has alum heads, I would be much more worried that you have warped a head and have a head gasket problem. Alum heads can't take much overheating.
 
That 3.1 is the cousin to the 3.8 V6, one of the best engines GM ever built, once you got past the intake manifold leaks. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I would change the oil.
 
the 3.1 and 3.8 are in no way related(you're talking 60V6 vs 90V6). the only similarity between them was a shared bellhousing that IIRC, started on the 60V6 upon introduction.
 
Really??? I thought they were the same block and everything, just the piston size and stroke were different. I stand corrected then.
 
2.8, 3.1, 3.4 were all more or less identical, save for bore/stroke, when comparing a similar year. those are the "classic" 60V6 engines from ~82 to ~05. at that point, the next generation(GMHV) came out as the 3.5 and 3.9, lasted until 2011. those were the last of the OHV 60V6 engines.

3.8 had the 3.0 and 3.3 derivatives in the late 80s and early 90s. i know very little about them.
 
Now it's making sense....My '90 Cutlass had the 3.3l V6...explains my rational for thinking the 3.8 and the 3.1 were related, whereas it was the 3.3, the one I had. that was a great engine, sold it at 210K and it's still going. Who says Slick 50 doesn't work!!! LOL!!!!
 
I'd not worry - maybe change it a little early but doubtful you hurt anything oil related. I'd watch the engine for the classic signs of head gasket failure: missing coolant, higher/milky oil level, white smoke, etc.

Originally Posted By: hemitom
If you weren't blown coolant all over the place you didn't get it hot enough to hurt anything. I had a mercury mistake with the 2.5 all aluminum engine and the water pump went out , To get home i drove the car till the guage pegged at hot pulled over let it cool repeated this cycle four of five times until i got home .


IIRC the 2.5 had fail safe cooling. It would shut alternate cylendars off if it overheated to keep things from siezing. Ford started phasing it in in the late 90's on all its engines. Pretty neat system.
 
Fix the fan.
worry less.

Please send all the best to your dad.

P.S. I used to know a 94 year old gentleman from MI, God bless his soul.
he got to take a bath in Atlantic courtesy of german submariners, and still kept his swimming skills beating some "younger" folks (in their 60'...)
you can say they don't make them like that..
 
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