Fuel Pump

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Redright9

Redright9

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Sep 18, 2018
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Kern Co. California
Hello,

I have an '03 GMC 1500HD with the 6.0L. About 2-3 months ago the fuel pump died. I put in an AC Delco MU1613 and it just died again this weekend. I see the OE part number of 15205623 but think it is an AC Delco part again. Anyone know the difference in the two?? I think it may just be the connector (original vs "generic"). I am hesitant to install another AC Delco part because it is not fun taking the bed off my truck.. and is there a better brand I should use?

thanks.
 
My mechanic made me use OEM because they had had so many problems with ac delco. By the way, when my 2012 6.0 burned up a fuel pump, it was due to low voltage across the fuse box, which had to be replaced as well. Yours was probably due to old age, but just passing on.
 
We had a 1999 Suburban that had a fuel pump failure. New shop put in a new pump, failed again. Third pump acted up, so I went to an older independent mechanic. He found a pinched section of wiring harness under the truck. Ran a bypass wire, fixed issue for good.
 
Originally Posted by Redright9
Hello,

I have an '03 GMC 1500HD with the 6.0L. About 2-3 months ago the fuel pump died. I put in an AC Delco MU1613 and it just died again this weekend. I see the OE part number of 15205623 but think it is an AC Delco part again. Anyone know the difference in the two?? I think it may just be the connector (original vs "generic"). I am hesitant to install another AC Delco part because it is not fun taking the bed off my truck.. and is there a better brand I should use?

thanks.


AC Delco make a wide range of product from the best quality which is OE to the Pro and Advantage line, neither is OE quality with the Advantage being close to white box. Bosch makes a very good pump.
As others have posted check wiring and connectors, they seem to be an issue. You can try the pump without removing it with a power probe, if it works okay than you have a wiring/connector issue.
 
OEM or Bosch. The latter will be a TI/Walbro pump, Bosch pumps for non-OEM applications tend to be made in Brazil and are the turbine design instead of a gerotor type. I put in a Bosch pump on an old beater the parents had. It was still working when we sent the van to the scrap yard.

A friend installed a Carter fuel pump assembly in his Explorer almost 10 years ago. He's one of the few without issues. Carter however was sold by Federal-Mogul and now made in China. Airtex is equally bad but if it had to boil down between white-box Chinese, Airtex or Carter, I'd rather install a Carter.
 
NEVER running below a 1/4 tank helps ALL in tank pumps last longer as the fuel acts as a coolant! i believe ACDelco is a spin off + not OE + many times aftermarket is better + usually cheaper for sure. love the VW cars as fuel pump access ic under the rear seat!!
 
So I looked into a Bosch pump, but all the reviews say it needs a little customization to fit for some reason. I don't want to run the A/C delco (which amazon quickly refunded the money for, so thats great!) because I am nervous I will only get another couple months from... I see a Denso unit that seems to get good reviews..... The OE one seems to be a reboxed AC delco unit from what I can tell, which is why I am still searching.
 
Maybee the oem one looks the same as the acdelco professional one. I forget, it's been a few years since I had to do mine in same type truck. Pain in the butt. But everything I read before hand said to replace with an oem one. So that's what I did, so far so good, nock on wood.
 
...As someone already said ...never run with less than 1/4 tank of fuel. Keeping the pump cool will be even more important than usual if voltage has dropped due to wiring issue.
 
I've had pretty good luck with Delco OE pumps. But here's a link to a Walbro 255 equipped assembly...... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpn-tu432hp-2/


The Delco pump you bought whether it be a OE or Professional series should have required you to swap the original Metri-Pack 150 series connector (Square 4) to a Delphi GT-150 series (Flat 4)

Not that GT-150 is all that superior to Metri-Pack 150, They do that to force you to change the connector in case there is a terminal spread issue (Keeps warranty claims down due to bad factory connector terminals)

I HIGHLY recommend running new 14 gauge wiring & relocating the Fuel Pump relay out of the underhood fuse box! It's simply not worth the time to find the many points of possible voltage drop/s in the factory 1mm² wiring!

14 gauge is the absolute max you can crimp onto a 1mm² 150 series terminal, Even then.....You have to be careful not to over-crimp it & it has to be quality fine strand automotive wire.

12160223 is the Delphi number for Silver plated terminals for the Metri-Pack 150 connector sent with the Walbro pump I linked above, You will need 2 of them (Power & Ground), Get 4 or 5 of them to practice your crimping methods. You can save & reuse the silicone seals!
You will also need crimpers, I use dedicated Packard/Delphi ratcheting crimpers that are very expensive, There are much cheaper options out there!

I use a Tyco, Metri-Pack 280 SPDT 30A relay for the pump relay relocation, This is a kit HERE

If you decide to do the wiring & relay mod....I'll be happy to provide further instruction.
 
Originally Posted by clinebarger
I've had pretty good luck with Delco OE pumps. But here's a link to a Walbro 255 equipped assembly...... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpn-tu432hp-2/


The Delco pump you bought whether it be a OE or Professional series should have required you to swap the original Metri-Pack 150 series connector (Square 4) to a Delphi GT-150 series (Flat 4)

Not that GT-150 is all that superior to Metri-Pack 150, They do that to force you to change the connector in case there is a terminal spread issue (Keeps warranty claims down due to bad factory connector terminals)

I HIGHLY recommend running new 14 gauge wiring & relocating the Fuel Pump relay out of the underhood fuse box! It's simply not worth the time to find the many points of possible voltage drop/s in the factory 1mm² wiring!

14 gauge is the absolute max you can crimp onto a 1mm² 150 series terminal, Even then.....You have to be careful not to over-crimp it & it has to be quality fine strand automotive wire.

12160223 is the Delphi number for Silver plated terminals for the Metri-Pack 150 connector sent with the Walbro pump I linked above, You will need 2 of them (Power & Ground), Get 4 or 5 of them to practice your crimping methods. You can save & reuse the silicone seals!
You will also need crimpers, I use dedicated Packard/Delphi ratcheting crimpers that are very expensive, There are much cheaper options out there!

I use a Tyco, Metri-Pack 280 SPDT 30A relay for the pump relay relocation, This is a kit HERE

If you decide to do the wiring & relay mod....I'll be happy to provide further instruction.




Hello! very much interested in this, I do have some questions for you, I will message you.

Thanks!
 
Originally Posted by Redright9
So I looked into a Bosch pump, but all the reviews say it needs a little customization to fit for some reason. I don't want to run the A/C delco (which amazon quickly refunded the money for, so thats great!) because I am nervous I will only get another couple months from... I see a Denso unit that seems to get good reviews..... The OE one seems to be a reboxed AC delco unit from what I can tell, which is why I am still searching.

As long as it's genuine Denso and not made in China by a third party. The Denso pumps in Toyotas tend to live long happy lives.
 
Originally Posted by benjy
NEVER running below a 1/4 tank helps ALL in tank pumps last longer as the fuel acts as a coolant!

More true in cars with return-type fuel systems, all new cars are returnless and the fuel pump is in a swirl pot to keep fuel at the pickup point or use a venturi-assist system to keep fuel where it needs to be in the tank.
 
Wife and I generally run our fuel tanks into the red--well past quarter tank--and all three are past 150k with original fuel pumps. I think this "don't go below quarter tank or the pump will be damaged" is a thing of the past. It might be good advice for other reasons, but bogus for durability reasons.

I'll agree, VW was nice and had a nice access plate to make the job easy. Mine was known for being failure prone, and it still went 255k before dying. Mind you that car had a fuel cooler. Which is another point: on a return system, leave your car out in the sun for a few hours, then get out on the highway and drive for a few hours--gas in the tank is going to be hot.

Maybe returnless systems are different... if so I'd call them junk. They might as well mark the gauge as being empty at the quarter mark. At 500 to 600 miles per week I like cars with long cruising range; giving up a quarter tank of range would be annoying.
 
Originally Posted by Redright9
Hello Burt, thanks for the reply, so you had to replace your entire fuse box as well?


Yes. Not me personally, but the mechanic.

Here's my experience. Over a two month period, the vehicle would have intermittent starting problems. It would start 9 times out of 10 but when it didn't it was silent. And mechanics would fiddle with it and claim they found a loose connection or something. Or that it was something wrong with the chip in the key and for awhile, switching keys seemed to do the trick. It got worse and I took it to the dealer who first replaced the fuse box. I picked it up and it ran really badly, couldn't drive off the lot. Then they found the fuel pump was burnt up or faulty. They assured me the both needed replacing. Problem solved.
 
Originally Posted by nthach
Originally Posted by benjy
NEVER running below a 1/4 tank helps ALL in tank pumps last longer as the fuel acts as a coolant!

More true in cars with return-type fuel systems, all new cars are returnless and the fuel pump is in a swirl pot to keep fuel at the pickup point or use a venturi-assist system to keep fuel where it needs to be in the tank.


I tell people this all the time about maintaining fuel capacity for the sake of the pump and no one thinks I know what I am talking about. Proof is in the pudding in the end I reckon lol
 
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