Originally Posted by Dave9
Originally Posted by Mainia
My comment was I can't get my rear brakes "blued" color or bedded properly because I have such bad rear brake bias...
... That's how I myself was attacking it, more in the sport driving way.
No, that is a sign you're overheating your brakes. Nobody needs to try to turn their vehicle into a pretend-race-car to have it work as engineers intended. Recognize public roads are not a race track and drive responsibly. Pick a different vehicle if you cannot drive the same things everyone else does. Good driving, opposed to trying to take a corner as fast as possible to win a race, does not require stopping fast enough that the front of a softly sprung vehicle transferring weight will matter much. It is considered in the design.
The correct approach to this is to have a technician familiar with the braking system (or enough life experience to know what s/he is looking at), test drive, pull the wheel, inspect lines and hoses, check rotor and pad wear and overall condition, check slider rails, check slider pins... see if anything is really wrong or if there is just an expectation that rust should be removed faster than it is.
Remember, so far that is all we know, nothing was mentioned about "it won't stop". Ultimately for us to give any sound advice over the internet we'd need a lot more information after someone has inspected the braking system, including just how much rust there was, how much remains after a reasonable length drive, including good pictures with the wheel off before and after the initial rust observation from sitting and the drive.
Dave9, blue brakes don't necessarily mean they are overheated. I work with a guy that has a ZL1 Camaro with silver non blued rotors. Every other Camaro I have seen has blue rotors, I might add. He drives like you Dave, I said use that car, why even own it if you drive it like Dave. I looked at every car in my place of works parking lot, 40 cars. All makes from junk to a Mercedes. 90% of them had blued rotors. 50% as blued as mine are. How can 90% of the cars be overheating their rotors? I would of thought the engineers have taken in account the vehicle use, weight, and disc size, and pad material choice as you seemed to of stated. I do have time with car since I owned a hobby Audi repair shop with 60 customers years ago, and now am the maintenance guy at a mid sized printer with 3 buildings. I do have "some idea" how stuff works.
Dave9, your "Mr Rogers" way at looking at the automobile industry and car design are just that, from the eyes of Mr Rogers. Maybe you should take a trip to the SEMA show to learn your comment is moot about "how the engineers intended". Changing a family "wallow bucket" car that Mr Rogers finds "calming to drive" can be changed over and made into a well engineered/advanced sport street car, to autocross car, to a full blown race car with ease. It is done daily by millions of people all over the world. Your wish on perfect slow driving everywhere will never happen. We see this "sport" performance driving in automobile advertisements 35%+ of the time. It's part of our culture, gone are the early 80's of 150 hp 301 V8 Pontiac Trans Am's, and Chevy Chevette's can't shift into 4th gear if the tire pressure is too low.
I choose very carefully where I sport drive, NEVER in residential streets, mostly hwy exit ramps, industrial parks on weekends/nights, and I never go over what I and the car can do though 57 years of sport driving. Do I brake hard, in a very aggressive/race style way, yep, that's how you brake in sport driving. I have my car dialed in with added anti-dive geometry and have balanced out my rear bias just from the lack of reducing weight transfer. I now have blued rear rotors A stock Hyundai Kona has HORRIBLE brake bias in an emergency stop, especially for the average driver. Very dangerous in my opinion. Hyundai chose to have a softly sprung, higher dampened car with large swaybars. That style car design is very highly conducive to nose dive and rear lift with almost no rear brake to road engagement as the ABS will cycle the rear bakes to almost 98% non use. I know, I tested 5 different Kona's at the dealer with the service manger. yet my 2013 Hyundai GT (slow nothing special) had superb rear brake bias.
Why did I chose the Hyundai Kona AWD 1.6T, and lowered it 2 inches and not a Corvette or Audi S3 Sport? I like oddball quirky AWD cars and like to build them to my liking. It does 0-60 in 6.6 seconds stock, but mine is a hair quicker. AWD drive is great in the corners, as we can see here. A game changer. I will start it mid video and watch for 5 minutes.
https://youtu.be/p10m0Jdk8tc?t=445
https://www.hyundaikonaforum.com/showcase/2018-kona-awd-1-6t-lowered.1162/
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