Fram ultra XG11665

JC1

Joined
Nov 29, 2008
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Oshawa, Ontario Canada
Fram ultra XG11665, used on 2015 Dodge Caravan. Filter used for 3 OCI and 1 year.

Total distance on filter was 18730 KMs or 11612 miles,
Details of oil used for all three OCI

1st OCI VWB 5w-30 (7000 kms)
2nd OCI Eco Power 5w-20 and VWB 5W-30 (Frankenbrew) for 1500Km
3rd OCI Pennzoil Ultra 0w-20 and 1 liter PP 5w-30 (ran for 10200 km)

Replaced with another Ultra and VWB 5w-30. In November will be dumping out the VWB and going with Penn Ultra 0w-20.

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Wow an Ultra gets wavy after only a year? The XG11665 uses a plastic mesh that doesn't seem to be strong enough. (n)

Next time try the Wix XP, if you can get it up there. The XP uses a wire backing that should be stronger than the Ultra's plastic.
 
The XP's are more money on RA. The only good deals on Wix XP are when Napa in the US has those sales, but I'm 2 hours away from the border so it's harder to get them for a good price.

I don't mind the Ultra's. Even the Wix gold gets wavy pleats.
 
Wow an Ultra gets wavy after only a year? The XG11665 uses a plastic mesh that doesn't seem to be strong enough. (n)

Next time try the Wix XP, if you can get it up there. The XP uses a wire backing that should be stronger than the Ultra's plastic.
The Pentastar tends twist its filters so this is not bad compared to some non-backed filters I have seen.
 
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Wow an Ultra gets wavy after only a year? The XG11665 uses a plastic mesh that doesn't seem to be strong enough. (n)

Next time try the Wix XP, if you can get it up there. The XP uses a wire backing that should be stronger than the Ultra's plastic.

They all do that in a Pentastar. I ran an M1 filter last time and it supposedly has wire backing like the Wix. Wavy gravy. I´ve not seen a Mopar, Ultra, or M1 that has a pleat failure of any kind, though. I have run all 3. So far, the Ultra seems to do it less than the others. I´ll be running M1 filters for awhile. I´ve got a stash of 12 or so from Wal Mart clearance last fall. $4 each.
 
Here is word from Kevin at Oil Udder, who was part of the design team on the Pentastar, regarding a question I asked about the oil filters twisting....

¨Sorry for the late note. Glad you LOVE the engine haha! Regarding the twist this has never been an issue. There was some concern with it initially during development nothing ever happened. Also, something keep in mind is it's removed state vs. under pressure/flow. Once it's got oil flowing through it and some pressure it'll change shape again. Regardless, it's fine.¨

So we can now worry about something else. ;)
 
Mine looked somewhat similar after a total of 15K on it over three changes, I don't recall ever having one completely straight come out yet whether it was XG, Wix, or Mopar.
 
I guess I'm lucky regarding filter twist, they come out looking fine to me. I do lube the gasket at the bottom of the gasket, as well as the gasket on the filter housing. Maybe lubing that bottom gasket helps a bit? I also don't go crazy torquing the filter cap.
 
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For you guys doing multiple OCI's, do you leave the oil filter in? Or do you just unscrew the oil filter and put it back in? The reason I'm asking is because every time I change oil in my 3.6's, I can have zero dripping out of oil pan, unscrew the oil filter and more oil drains out.
 
For you guys doing multiple OCI's, do you leave the oil filter in? Or do you just unscrew the oil filter and put it back in? The reason I'm asking is because every time I change oil in my 3.6's, I can have zero dripping out of oil pan, unscrew the oil filter and more oil drains out.

On our RX330, I wouldn't remove the filter; however for the Jeep, the manual calls out to remove the oil filter:
"When performing an engine oil change, the oil filter cap must be removed. Removing the oil filter cap releases oil held within the oil filter cavity and
allows it to drain into the sump. Failure to remove the cap prior to re-installation of the drain plug will not allow complete draining of the used engine oil."
 
On our RX330, I wouldn't remove the filter; however for the Jeep, the manual calls out to remove the oil filter:
"When performing an engine oil change, the oil filter cap must be removed. Removing the oil filter cap releases oil held within the oil filter cavity and
allows it to drain into the sump. Failure to remove the cap prior to re-installation of the drain plug will not allow complete draining of the used engine oil."
That's what I noticed. My first oil change the oil was coming out a bit slow I thought, but it was flowing. Then I removed the filter cap to have a look at the filter and much to my surprise a lot more oil came out. Now when I change the oil, I loosen the filter cap, remove the drain plug, then remove the filter. I reinstall a new filter after the oil has drained. I cover the filter housing with a clean shop rag while the oil is draining, when it slows to a drip I'll install the filter. I make sure to lube both o-rings, the one on the bottom of the filter and the one on the filter cap.
 
On my friend's 2015 Jeep GC with the turbo diesel, I loosen the composite filter housing and then pull the drain plug.
Let everything drain for at least 15 minutes then swap the filter.
This one has the 8 quart pan and the $70 Moroso filter.

Total drain time is at least 30 minutes. I do torque the filter housing and drain plug.
 
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OK, That's what I've been doing. Pull drain plug. Change oil filter. By then it's almost done dripping. ThX for the replies!!!!!
 
For you guys doing multiple OCI's, do you leave the oil filter in? Or do you just unscrew the oil filter and put it back in? The reason I'm asking is because every time I change oil in my 3.6's, I can have zero dripping out of oil pan, unscrew the oil filter and more oil drains out.
I leave the filter alone. There were issues of the previous model's filter housing cracking (probably from overtightening the housing too many times).

I also gave a fumoto drain valve so it takes a while to drain which is fine by me.
 
Wow an Ultra gets wavy after only a year? The XG11665 uses a plastic mesh that doesn't seem to be strong enough. (n)

Next time try the Wix XP, if you can get it up there. The XP uses a wire backing that should be stronger than the Ultra's plastic.
I pulled a Mopar filter out of one of my Pentastars and it was wavy, just like the Fram and Mobil 1 filters. Have yet to see any torn filters, they’re surviving ~100psi cold starts in that state 🤷‍♂️
 
I pulled a Mopar filter out of one of my Pentastars and it was wavy, just like the Fram and Mobil 1 filters. Have yet to see any torn filters, they’re surviving ~100psi cold starts in that state 🤷‍♂️
Even after the short break in run my factory Mopar was wavy. Put in an XG as recommended by PSD
(CarbonSteel?) … he noted the manufacturing tolerance seemed best with those (spaced out in housing)
 
That's what I noticed. My first oil change the oil was coming out a bit slow I thought, but it was flowing. Then I removed the filter cap to have a look at the filter and much to my surprise a lot more oil came out. Now when I change the oil, I loosen the filter cap, remove the drain plug, then remove the filter. I reinstall a new filter after the oil has drained. I cover the filter housing with a clean shop rag while the oil is draining, when it slows to a drip I'll install the filter. I make sure to lube both o-rings, the one on the bottom of the filter and the one on the filter cap.
Oddly enough … on my first drain that oil looked too thick to be 0w20 …
I already had the habit of backing out the filter cap until the O-ring could let air pass but leave it there while draining
(had the Charger before the Jeep)
 
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I’ve been using these in the wife’s Pentastar WK2 since we bought it. the 2014 has a better cooler/filter housing design than the earlier engines. in both cases the filter housing is always empty by the time I get up top after draining the pan.
 
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