FP-60 and failing fuel pump

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So I bought an '01 DODGE Ram V8-318, 2WD, 46RE, option-loaded Quadcab last October. Fuel pump noise (whine, turbine-like) was light, but noticeable. Became "louder" over time until recent replacement to the point when, at idle, in a vehicle walk-around it was "louder" than the kiddy-muffler/duals on the truck (FLOWMASTER 40).

At 8k [92k total] of ownership finally had dealer replace pump/filter/regulator assembly (bill reminds me of how much it hurts not to be able to any longer do this simple stuff).

First day of ownership I took it up to the Denton, TX T/A Truckstop to weigh it on the CAT Scale (5,080# with fuel, no load, no driver) and stopped by Odis' house on the way back for some FP-60 and LC-20. Gave the tank a double-shot (2-ozs per five gallons), and ran FUEL POWER at every fill.

Question: Having never owned a computer-controlled vehicle before (truly, stuck in the 1960's or 1970's; yes, I can walk you through a complete non-electronic ignition tune-up, points and all), and certainly not an in-tank fuel pump, how long can these things whine on and on, louder and louder?

I was glad not have to replace it until I was ready (remodelled house sold, yeah!), and am wondering if FUEL POWER was a help in crutching it along.

(Boy, is this a JBrowning question, or what . . . ?)
 
Tan Sedan,

Since using fuel power in 3 vehicles for a couple years it completely silenced the in-tank electric fuel pumps. That typical electric hum disappeared in all three of them fairly soon after I first put the Fuel Power in. No hum or vibration at all.

One car had an O.E in tank fuel pump which was replaced at 140K, which far exceeded the 35K replacement that was typical for that particular problematical fuel pump.

Another vehicle has a fuel level sender integral with the pump. If you have problems with the sender you have to replace the whole unit, big bucks. This particular model year has a notorious fuel sender problem which sends the fuel gauge an unpredictable erratic reading; swinging empty, filled, etc. continuously. I remember when I used Schaeffer's Neutra (before Fuel Power) the fuel gauge read became accurate again. Now I use a 'Molecule Brew' of 25% Neutra with 75% Fuel Power and dose it at 1 ounce per five gallons of gas every tank. The fuel guage reads true again.
 
It's good stuff. I don't know about fuel pumps, but since starting my car on FP, my fuel gauge now drops at a uniform pace. It used to not move for the first 100 or so miles, then drop like a rock to catch up. Now its nice and consistent the whole way through!
smile.gif
 
Many vehicles allow changing the in-tank fuel pump from the top through an access port. That's not too tough. Dropping the tank is a real pain. My old F150 had the entire truck built around that tank...it must have been the first thing installed on the assembly line.


Ken
 
As long as it is putting out enough pressure and volume to keep the injectors and ECM happy you can run them until they fail! If you have an accurate map of the pumps nominal behavior you can actualy hook them up to a scope and run them and predict when they are going to fail! As you would imagine few Tech.'s have this ability!!! When they get really load, fail toproduce the right volume or presure it is best just to replace them and be done with it!

IF you can do the work your self some jobs like sensor kit (see float), presure switch, check valve, pump (if servived seperately) are ok to do as the fail. If you have to pay a tech. to do it then the labor will eat up any money saved in parts the second time he has to go in to replace something!

Depending on the truck it is usualy fastest to un hook rear section of harness and remove the bed! If it is a (import)SUV they normaly give you access under the rear seat carpet to the sender.
 
Wow guess I am lucky I can replace the FP in my cars in under and hour each 96 Caprice and 95 Roadmaster wagon.
I had not made the connection but one of my cars the one that has seen FP since very shortly after I bought it does have a more linear fuel gauge than the other. These are basically the same car with high miles and known to have flakey gauges. Once the one that has not had FP yet is fixed(deer damage) I will have to try FP and see if it helps the gauge out it is not totally bad but is very non-linear.
 
It hurt to have to pay another to simply drop the tank and swap out the pump/filter/regulator assembly . . . especially as the part itself was $470.00 last I checked.

My mileage was about par for this unit, in this year model truck. And I am "assuming" that FP-60 will keep the new one good until I let the vehicle go (barring any electrical problems).
 
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