Trying to help my neighbor out. He has an '03 Ford Windstar that won't charge. I helped him replace the alternator to no avail, still not charging . I checked the parts stores on-line and didn't seem to find a separate voltage regulator Some listings showed a regulator, but I wasn't convinced it was for this application. I am at a dead end. Any thoughts on what might be the problem ??? ANy help appreciated
Ford WIndstar '03 charging problem
- Thread starter Russ300H
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Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Is there a fuse for it?
I once forgot to unhook the battery to my previous 97' Camry when I removed the alternator to change the timing belt, and arced the positive cable and it popped the fuse for the alternator.
I once forgot to unhook the battery to my previous 97' Camry when I removed the alternator to change the timing belt, and arced the positive cable and it popped the fuse for the alternator.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
Is the vehicle showing ~14VDC across the battery with the engine at idle?
...and have you tested the battery?0
See if you have battery voltage at the back of the alt.
The regulator is built into the alternator. Either you have the belt slipping, corroded cable to the battery or grounding, bad battery, fuse blown, or something screwy like some vehicles (forget which at the moment) put the alternator coil power through a bulb in the dash so when the bulb fails so does the ability to make power from the alternator. That light bulb if out (if an issue at all) would typically be noticed by not coming on when the key is put in the on position prior to starting the engine.
Thanks ALL Battery is brand new. I left a battery terminal loose enough to remove by hand. Van started right up. but pull the terminal off of the post and it dies instantly.. Repeated that twice.
Originally Posted by Russ300
Thanks ALL Battery is brand new. I left a battery terminal loose enough to remove by hand. Van started right up. but pull the terminal off of the post and it dies instantly.. Repeated that twice.
Don't do that test on a modern car unless you want to cause more problems.
Thanks ALL Battery is brand new. I left a battery terminal loose enough to remove by hand. Van started right up. but pull the terminal off of the post and it dies instantly.. Repeated that twice.
Don't do that test on a modern car unless you want to cause more problems.
Yea, DO NOT pull a battery cable with engine running as an alternator 'test'
This 'test' which was vaild for older cars and those with generators, not alternators, can instantly fry the diodes in the alternator, and if the alternator was making a lot of amperage at the time you pulled the cable, could send brief spikes of high voltage through the system and perhaps fry some electronics components.
YOur loose battery cable that you peel off with engine running, can also be preventing the charging from occurring.
Overall an intentionally loose battery cable when a charging system issue is being chased, is unwise in the extreme.
There is some sorf of fuse between the (+) output stud and the battery (+). It might even be a length of wire called a fusible link. These are supposed to stretch out when they blow and be obvious, but when they are old they do not blow always in this manner. They are usually a smaller diameter length of wire spliced into a thicker wire. The wire inside is usually 4 AWG numbers larger than the wire it is protecting, like 6awg wire will employ about 7 inch length of 10AWG fusible link. They get old, they blow, even if they are not over their rating. Generally they stopped using fusible links early to mid 90's, but who knows with a Ford and what any previous sparky might have done to it.
Also inspect any and all connections on the back of the alternator, look for wires at the connector which could have overheated. Any looseness of any wire contact in the connector body or brittle wire insulation is a red flag. The presence of Dielectric grease in the connector, does not mean all is fine and dandy inside, as so many seem to think. Usually is obscures an obvious burnt or loose contact within sending one on a wild goose chase.
This 'test' which was vaild for older cars and those with generators, not alternators, can instantly fry the diodes in the alternator, and if the alternator was making a lot of amperage at the time you pulled the cable, could send brief spikes of high voltage through the system and perhaps fry some electronics components.
YOur loose battery cable that you peel off with engine running, can also be preventing the charging from occurring.
Overall an intentionally loose battery cable when a charging system issue is being chased, is unwise in the extreme.
There is some sorf of fuse between the (+) output stud and the battery (+). It might even be a length of wire called a fusible link. These are supposed to stretch out when they blow and be obvious, but when they are old they do not blow always in this manner. They are usually a smaller diameter length of wire spliced into a thicker wire. The wire inside is usually 4 AWG numbers larger than the wire it is protecting, like 6awg wire will employ about 7 inch length of 10AWG fusible link. They get old, they blow, even if they are not over their rating. Generally they stopped using fusible links early to mid 90's, but who knows with a Ford and what any previous sparky might have done to it.
Also inspect any and all connections on the back of the alternator, look for wires at the connector which could have overheated. Any looseness of any wire contact in the connector body or brittle wire insulation is a red flag. The presence of Dielectric grease in the connector, does not mean all is fine and dandy inside, as so many seem to think. Usually is obscures an obvious burnt or loose contact within sending one on a wild goose chase.
When the vehicle is running use ONE jumper lead (a single jumper cable works) and jump the BATT bolt/terminal on the back of the alternator over to the POS + on the battery.
If it starts charging fine when doing that - - you know you have a wiring problem.
If it starts charging fine when doing that - - you know you have a wiring problem.
Not familiar with the van Where would I find the fusible link ? Thanks much to all of you Great suggestions!!
Originally Posted by Russ300
Not familiar with the van Where would I find the fusible link ? Thanks much to all of you Great suggestions!!
Follow the wire from the alt-- they wouldn't be jerks and bury it. Could be near the starter or under the under hood fuse box. The 10 ga alt wire is easy to find as it's thinner than the starter wire but thicker than nearly everything else.
Not familiar with the van Where would I find the fusible link ? Thanks much to all of you Great suggestions!!
Follow the wire from the alt-- they wouldn't be jerks and bury it. Could be near the starter or under the under hood fuse box. The 10 ga alt wire is easy to find as it's thinner than the starter wire but thicker than nearly everything else.
TY!!!!
Hi, We had a 2000 Windstar, I replaced the cluster (Speedometer, gauges) and due to one connection on the back of the cluster, three alternaotrs and two batteries would not work. So get wiring diagram from AutoZone site, repair help. Or library. Second Dave 9's comment on charging lamp on cluster, ended up taking to electrical specialist and paid $125 for the diagnosis and repair. Good luck!
Check the diode in the fuse block it looks like a fuse but it's black in colour. Check for continuity using a multi-meter. Also check the fuse for the alternator.
If you have access to a scan tool, check to see if the ECM is commanding the alternator to charge.
Check for voltage at the back of the alternator.
If you have access to a scan tool, check to see if the ECM is commanding the alternator to charge.
Check for voltage at the back of the alternator.
On my '03 Windstar, the fusible link is in the cable that runs from the alternator over to the battery, right on top. The fusible link is the 2 smaller wires seemingly cut into the larger cable.
Might as well check the other wires and cables and ground points, make sure they are tight and clean.
Might as well check the other wires and cables and ground points, make sure they are tight and clean.
You can test the wire without even trying to locate it by doing a voltage drop test. Take a multimeter and put one lead on the alternator charging post (specifically, touch the lead to the ring terminal on the wire), and put the other lead on the positive battery post (specifically, touch the lead to the actual wire or terminal right where it connects to the battery). Check the voltage. There should be 0 volts, or very close to it. Anything higher than 1 volt indicates a problem with the wire.
Edit: forgot to add, do this test while the engine is running.
Edit: forgot to add, do this test while the engine is running.
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