Ford guys who flushed their PS fluid..
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I haven't flushed my power steering unit as I was a little unsure, as you are, of which hose to disconnect. I just pulled the big hose at the bottom of my reservoir and let all the fluid drain out, then refilled it. I have done it about 4 times and will do it another couple of times before the fluid would reach a 95% mixture. My reservoir holds about 1/2 quart, Mercury Grand Marquis, and according to the owner's manual it only about 2.3 pints, which isn't much. I get nearly 40-50% of the fluid replaced each time I drain it.
Is the PS reservior on the pump? If so:
You have two hoses, one of them, the low-pressure hose, is held on with hose clamps and is the return from the rack and the power steering cooler. Fluid flows out of the rack, into the cooler(if equipped), and then into the reservior and from there into the pump.
The other hose is the high-pressure hose between the pump and the steering rack. It's not held on with hose clamps, it has hydraulic fittings.
If the PS reservior is not on the pump, look for the line going into the reservior from either the steering rack or the cooler (if equipped). This is the return line to the reservior.
The other line going into the reservior will attach to the pump and is the return line to the pump.
Basically, the line with hose clamps is always the low-pressure return line. The line with hydraulic fittings is the high-pressure supply line and you don't want to mess with it.
You have two hoses, one of them, the low-pressure hose, is held on with hose clamps and is the return from the rack and the power steering cooler. Fluid flows out of the rack, into the cooler(if equipped), and then into the reservior and from there into the pump.
The other hose is the high-pressure hose between the pump and the steering rack. It's not held on with hose clamps, it has hydraulic fittings.
If the PS reservior is not on the pump, look for the line going into the reservior from either the steering rack or the cooler (if equipped). This is the return line to the reservior.
The other line going into the reservior will attach to the pump and is the return line to the pump.
Basically, the line with hose clamps is always the low-pressure return line. The line with hydraulic fittings is the high-pressure supply line and you don't want to mess with it.
Mine is setup with the reservoir seperate from the pump and has two rubber hoses held on by hose clamps, which then run to a metal line fitting, both hoses do this. I have seen the newer Fords are similar to this setup.
Usually the return line is the one coming from the cooler (typically up by the radiator). When in doubt you could also open the lid and watch the flow of fluid with the engine running. The return line generates a noticeable flow coming into the reservior. Then of course you could always do what I did the first time. I disconnected the wrong line and figured out which was the return line in an instant.
I use the turkey baster method.
Roger,
When checking the flow with the engine running, does that give an opportunity for air to get into the system? Maybe that is only true for the older systems.
When checking the flow with the engine running, does that give an opportunity for air to get into the system? Maybe that is only true for the older systems.
I'm a professional mechanic, and also use the turkey baster method on my own car.
It works great.
It works great.
I use the turkey baster method also. I'm not too thrilled about disconnecting hoses that are not leaking. Every couple of weeks I siphon out some old fluid and put in fresh. Before you know it you have replaced 1 quart of fluid.
Whimsey
Whimsey
The Turkey baster method doesn't cut it for me, so I flush my systems instead. I can't tell you exactly which hose is which on a new Stang, but our Ford trucks 'might' be similar.
On our trucks, the return hose is the more easily accessible smaller rubber hose with the clamp on it that routes to a hard line that goes to the power steering cooler. Some of the trucks I've flushed have very clean looking fluid up until the end and that's when I finally get a short spurt of dirty fluid.
When I flush the p/s system on our trucks or other vehicles, I remove the ignition fuse so the car/truck won't start. I lift the front wheels off the ground so I can easily work the steering wheel and not put too much strain on the system while flushing. Then I place a small container inside the engine compartment underneath the p/s reservoir to catch any fluid that comes out of the reservoir while placing a vacuum plug cap on the bottom of the p/s reservoir so it doesn't leak all over the place.
I'll route the disconnected p/s hose downwards so it points to another container to drain into. Then I insert the right size vacuum hose coupling into that disconnected p/s hose and extend it by joining another hose to it so it will reach far enough down to fill my clear container on the ground.
Once everything is setup, I'll have somebody continuously crank the vehicle over for up to ~15 to ~20 seconds while turning the steering wheel back and forth, which causes the old fluid to pump into my clear container. If the p/s reservoir starts to get low at this point, stop the car from cranking over and fill up the p/s reservoir with new fluid. Do not let the p/s reservoir get low enough to suck air into the system. Let the car (starter motor) cool down for ~2+ minutes or else you're burn out your starter.
Repeat this process a couple times until you've completely flushed the system. I always run an extra half quart or so through the system just to make sure it’s completely flushed, but doing it this way assures me that I have all new fluid in the system. Reconnect your hoses, top off the reservoir and make sure to replace your ignition fuse so you can start your car. Start your car and adjust the fluid level in the p/s reservoir if necessary, then go have some fun.
I've used the Turkey baster method in the past and it's better than nothing, but flushing the system is the way to go if you can do it. A family we met through little league had very prominent groaning noises coming from their vehicles p/s system after longer drives, especially when the weather warmed up. The husband tried the Turkey baster method many times, but it never fixed the problem and he was ready to give up and take it to the dealer for a new p/s pump, etc, which is what the dealer advised based on a previous estimate. I flushed his system for Christmas and it has been perfect ever since (knock on wood).
On our trucks, the return hose is the more easily accessible smaller rubber hose with the clamp on it that routes to a hard line that goes to the power steering cooler. Some of the trucks I've flushed have very clean looking fluid up until the end and that's when I finally get a short spurt of dirty fluid.
When I flush the p/s system on our trucks or other vehicles, I remove the ignition fuse so the car/truck won't start. I lift the front wheels off the ground so I can easily work the steering wheel and not put too much strain on the system while flushing. Then I place a small container inside the engine compartment underneath the p/s reservoir to catch any fluid that comes out of the reservoir while placing a vacuum plug cap on the bottom of the p/s reservoir so it doesn't leak all over the place.
I'll route the disconnected p/s hose downwards so it points to another container to drain into. Then I insert the right size vacuum hose coupling into that disconnected p/s hose and extend it by joining another hose to it so it will reach far enough down to fill my clear container on the ground.
Once everything is setup, I'll have somebody continuously crank the vehicle over for up to ~15 to ~20 seconds while turning the steering wheel back and forth, which causes the old fluid to pump into my clear container. If the p/s reservoir starts to get low at this point, stop the car from cranking over and fill up the p/s reservoir with new fluid. Do not let the p/s reservoir get low enough to suck air into the system. Let the car (starter motor) cool down for ~2+ minutes or else you're burn out your starter.
Repeat this process a couple times until you've completely flushed the system. I always run an extra half quart or so through the system just to make sure it’s completely flushed, but doing it this way assures me that I have all new fluid in the system. Reconnect your hoses, top off the reservoir and make sure to replace your ignition fuse so you can start your car. Start your car and adjust the fluid level in the p/s reservoir if necessary, then go have some fun.
I've used the Turkey baster method in the past and it's better than nothing, but flushing the system is the way to go if you can do it. A family we met through little league had very prominent groaning noises coming from their vehicles p/s system after longer drives, especially when the weather warmed up. The husband tried the Turkey baster method many times, but it never fixed the problem and he was ready to give up and take it to the dealer for a new p/s pump, etc, which is what the dealer advised based on a previous estimate. I flushed his system for Christmas and it has been perfect ever since (knock on wood).
On my 2001 ford windstar w/ remote PS fluid reservoir, the return line is the smaller, higher up rubber hose on the reservoir. You will find that to be the case with most all with this setup. Piece-o-cake to *pour n' pump*.
G/luck
Joel
G/luck
Joel
With the turkey baster method, do you still need to bleed air out afterwards, or does it not take enough fluid out to require that? My truck's PS pump hasn't had any problems yet, but the ATF in it looks pretty dark.
The turkey baster can only remove most the fluid in the reservoir (not in the lines, pump, or cooler), so you will not have to worry about bleeding air from the system.
You can't just do the turkey baster flush once.
4-5 times [after starting each time] is more like it.
There won't be any air in the system - that's a benefit of the suction flush.
You are going to get 90% or more fresh fluid in it, with no hassles.
4-5 times [after starting each time] is more like it.
There won't be any air in the system - that's a benefit of the suction flush.
You are going to get 90% or more fresh fluid in it, with no hassles.
The turkey baster method works best if you drive the car between sucking out what you can. I usually do it once a week for about four weeks.
To make flushing easier you could do a couple of things:
1. make sure the fuel pump relay/fuse is also removed if they aren't one and the same or you'll be washing your cylinders out with fuel, which will get into the engine oil past the rings.
2. remove or loosen the plugs - with no compression your starter is hardly working and won't have to rest
3. if you're keen, remove the belt and spin the PS pump with a drill or something instead.
I did a flush by disconnecting return lines on my '90 Integra years ago. Presently I turkey baster every oil change with synthetic (leftover Redline D4-ATF no less) and it's clean as a whistle. Of course the Redline is overkill, but....
1. make sure the fuel pump relay/fuse is also removed if they aren't one and the same or you'll be washing your cylinders out with fuel, which will get into the engine oil past the rings.
2. remove or loosen the plugs - with no compression your starter is hardly working and won't have to rest
3. if you're keen, remove the belt and spin the PS pump with a drill or something instead.
I did a flush by disconnecting return lines on my '90 Integra years ago. Presently I turkey baster every oil change with synthetic (leftover Redline D4-ATF no less) and it's clean as a whistle. Of course the Redline is overkill, but....
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