Flushing and Dex 3 question

[user1234]

Hey everyone,

I have a 1988 Volvo 760GLE with about 116k miles. Not sure last time fluid was changed, so I plan on draining the pan, refilling, driving for a few hundred miles and then doing a flush through the radiator. The manual calls for a fluid change every 20k miles and calls for Dexron 2D. I'm not sure if I want to take the plunge to synthetic at this time, but from what I understand, dex 3 replaces 2d but what is the best brand to use? Transmission is running pretty well at the moment. Current fluid is kind of dark but doesn't seem burned.

Thanks for any advice!

 

[AzFireGuy79]

I just did something similar on a 2001 olds alero. Car had about 126,000 and nobody knows if the fluid was ever changed. Looked like total [censored], although not burnt. I bought about 5 gallons of Supertech Dex III at wal-mart and a bottle of lubegard RED at auto zone. If you dont want to waste a bunch of fluid, get the lubegard flush and run that through all gears and then run the flush prodedure as planned.

I went ahead and dropped the pan and performed the filter service along with cleaning the valve body area. If you want to run a more robust fluid and dont change it out as much, look into Redline D4 or Amsoil universal. Both great syn fluids. A magnefine inline filter would also be a very good idea in your case. After the flush this car had no more shudder and shifted very smoothly. If we didnt sell the car it would have been filled with synthetic ATF.

 

[VK56VD]

Put Auto-RX into the transmission, drive for the recommended amount of time with it and perform a cooler line flush. Try Mobil1 ATF or Amsoil ATF and drive for a long time without any worries. Check compatibility first.

BTW, your original plan sounds solid as well. Change the filter if there is one while you are at it and change the differential fluid as well.

 

[user1234]

Hey thanks guys, just wanted to run that by everyone

Supertech + Lubegard Red sounds like a good idea for now, maybe I'll invest in synthetic later on down the road.

Question though, if I do the Lubegard route, is it good to use as preventative maintenance as well? And, should I put a few ounces in when I do the initial drain and fill (ie 500 miles before the full flush)

Appreciate it guys!
Thanks

 

[AzFireGuy79]

Derail- First

Secondly as far as preventative maintenace goes yes, every time you change the ATF you should follow lubegards recommendation ( I think its 1oz of the RED to 1 quart of ATF added). After switching to synthetic you no longer need to add it as the fluid has more than enough addatives already.

When doing the initial drain and fill there is no need to add the lubegard for only 500 miles only to drain it out. I would look into the lubegard flush though which is on there website. It is used during the flush process and does not need to be driven on to work. Very cool product that does what it promises. You will love the combination of the Supertech and Lubegard. I almost didnt want to sell the car after the flush! Any other questions feel free to ask.

 

[user1234]

Thanks for the welcome
I really appreciate all the advice

Would the flush product be recommended for my transmission of this mileage? There's no slipping or anything, but I do get concerned that it could start if too much changes in the box at once. If it comes down to it, I don't mind spending a few extra bucks on extra fluid.

Also, I've read that you should add lubegard in 2oz increments, any truth to this?

Thanks all

 

[AzFireGuy79]

If you dont feel you need the flush then you can skip it and just make sure to do a thorough flush along with a filter. As far as adding lubegard, for normal applications the ratio is 1 ounce of the RED to 1 quart ATF. Just google lubegard and it will take you to international lubricants. They have everything listed on there. The most crucial thing though is to make sure you get a Magnefine filter so that if extra junk within the trans is liberated, it will catch it before further damage is done.

 

[user1234]

10-4 on the magefine filter

I want to do the first drain/fill this weekend. I don't have a filter right now, but I can put it in when I go to do the flush. Ok to wait 500miles to install the filter? Also, they don't sell those filters at a place like autozone would they? If they did, I could put it in when I do the drain. One more question is the installation fairly straightforward?

Quick edit: If I go to Walmart and grab some fluid, Dex4 and 6 are compatible with 3 right?

Again, the help is great
Thank you so much

 

[AzFireGuy79]

You will be fine leaving the current filter in for another 500 miles. It only becomes an issue when flushing due to stirring up more material. As far as the magnefine, NAPA was rumored to have these at some locations. I buy mine on ebay from lakewood transmission in washington state. The install of the filter is easy. Just have to identify the return like by disconnecting it and then cut the line after measuring to place the filter. Assure that it is flowing in the right direction( the filter has an arrow. Dex 6 is backwards compatible with DEX 3 except in some manual transmissions that call for DEX3. Walmart has the DEX 3 in gallon jugs which is always nice. Either fluid will work fine in your car.

 

[user1234]

Thanks for the fluid tips!
There's a NAPA downtown, so I may have to check that out. When I mentioned filter I was speaking of the magnefine filter, sorry I was kind of ambiguous. As far as I know, the transmission doesn't have an internal filter but a strainer and Volvo deleted the service bulletin for replacing the strainer. Anyhoo, I'll definitely get the magnefine but I hope it'll survive the duration from drain/fill to flush without it.

Will keep you updated!
Thank you

 

[Donald]

The NAPA place near me had a Magnefine filter, but in a NAPA box with Rayspestos and Magnefine markings, about $5.00 more than our sponsor sells them for. Almost certainly you need a 3/8" one. Be sure to get clamps.

Its imperative you install it in the return line with its arrow in the proper direction.

Get a couple of empty water bottles (like 12-20 oz). Feel both rubber lines after driving 15 minutes, the cooler one is the return. Pull the return line from the trans side and slide into a water bottle. Turn on the vehicle for maybe 5 seconds. Helps to have a second person. Make sure ATF is flowing into water bottle. Hold filter along rubber line to see where it would splice in best. Cut a section of the line and slide in the inlet side. Put outlet side of filter into water bottle and again see if it pump fluid into water bottle. If so connect hose to outlet side and you are done.

 

[user1234]

I should be able to do the first drain today, and I will order an inline filter to be put in soon. I'll check out autozone later when I pick up some lubegard, maybe they'll have one of those filters and I can put it in, otherwise I'll install it when I pull the cooler lines off for the flush

 

[user1234]

Hey all,
sorry for double post. I've been e-mailing with Darrell at emergingent. Seems like a real stand up guy, answering my questions about installation, shipping, etc. Probably going to pick up a filter from him. I've been reading over the thread started by sciphi and have become a little apprehensive. Sorry for being overly worried, but I just want to make sure that my plan of putting in a mag filter, doing a drain/fill, and then 500 miles later doing a cooler line flush + lubegard sounds good.

I know I have to do something, because even though it's working fine now, the worn out fluid isn't doing any good.

Thanks everyone,
Darrell

 

[AzFireGuy79]

Dont get too worried about it. Just stick with your original plan. Do a drain and refill and drive it. You can put the magnefine on after the flush which will keep the new ATF clean in the future. Every transmission I have every flushed with high miles has greatly improved after the procedure. I would only be worried if the fluid was burnt and had alot of metal debris floating around. But it sounds like your fluid is just in need of some refreshing.

The story of a transmission failing after a flush is blown out of proportion these days. If the damage is done then all you are doing is giving it a little more time. Although this is not the situation you are in. Stay the course and flush the trans as we have discussed in this thread if you are comfortable with it. Its good you are asking questions and being cautious. Thats what this board is all about. We are all here to learn, inform and inquire. Let us know how it goes.

 

[user1234]

Hi AzFireGuy,

thanks for the advice. I've actually thought about it and I'll probably pickup a filter and throw it in when I do the drain fill. Just wanted to see if I could get it done this weekend, but that didn't work out, no biggie. One more thing I forgot to add, there are small flakes in the fluid but again it doesn't look burned, just used. Hopefully it's not an indication of severe wear and the flush will prolong the transmission life instead of doing it in.

Also: I appreciate the helpfulness and willingness to explain things.
Thanks!
Darrell

 

[sciphi]

My personal car was a time capsule of original fluids except oil. Low mileage, but 10-year-old fluids (currently all fluids are
The ATF was a very pale pink and the unit shifted harshly, with a very pronounced shudder when locking up the torque converter. An Auto-RX cleaning itself noticeably reduced the shudder, and after 2 drain/fill cycles the unit shifts butter-smooth and does not slip at all.

So new fluid in a transmission that hasn't seen it in a long time is generally a good thing. As always, YMMV.

And yeah, you know my issue from the other thread...

 

[user1234]

Sciphi, thanks for the input. I almost posted over in your thread but didn't want to derail the discussion

Hopefully I can get to this before winter as it will become increasingly irritating to do some of this in the freezing cold.

Thanks!

 

[sciphi]

No problem! Figured it was time to chime in.

Yeah, cold weather car fixes bite.

For a filter change, pumping all you can out from the pan makes it a lot less messy. Plus the pan is easier to manage without fluid sloshing everywhere.

 

[user1234]

Okay,
ordered an inline magnefine last tuesday, it's going to ship tomorrow so hopefully this weekend we can start this process! I've been thinking it over, and had a few questions about converting to synthetic. After I replace what's in there with supertech fluid, how long should it be run until switching to synthetic? Also, any chance of springing leaks like what can happen when switching from dino to synth in the engine?

Thank you again
Darrell