i have been thinking of buying a lisle 56150 flaring tool or the eastwood on car flaring tool for 3/16. opinions or thoughts on either of these ? the lisle tool does more, but i wonder how good either works.
flaring tool
- Thread starter hardheaded
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I have a knockoff that works great. You just have to tighten everything down real good so there isn't any slippage. The quality of your line cut to begin with has the greatest effect on quality of flare, IMO.
If you've never flared a brake line, on your back, half attached to the car, with fluid dripping out as you work, you're in for a treat.
If you've never flared a brake line, on your back, half attached to the car, with fluid dripping out as you work, you're in for a treat.
JHZR2
Staff member
Dunno if its the same... When I realized that all HVAC contractors around us were absolute thieves, I bought equipment to install a system myself. Bought all the best US made stuff. I got a flaring tool with a clutch, and a good deburring tool as well. They have been great for many uses now. I bought Yellow Jacket for HVAC, not sure if they offer the right die to do the appropriate flare you need for a vehicle though...
I buy the AZ loaner flaring tool then return it.
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RIDGID 345 is a great flaring tool. You can buy just the flaring tool, and buy the 3/16 double flare adaptor separate and save a few bucks too.
https://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-23337-345-...45+double+flare
https://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-23337-345-...45+double+flare
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Originally Posted By: aquartlow
Eastwood for the win, I bought and use this one, worth EVERY penny I paid!
This!
I have a similar one for making brake lines at the shop it is awesome! I prefer it over the Master Cool hand held hydraulic crimper I also have- that gets used for under car work, where it's an inconvenience to use the vice mounted flaring tool.
The thing I really don't like about the Lisle and others of the same style is that they really bite into the tube to hold onto it. If you're using the ploy coat steel brake lines, the coating is now gone and freshly marred, bare steel is left behind ready to begin rusting.
Eastwood for the win, I bought and use this one, worth EVERY penny I paid!
This!
I have a similar one for making brake lines at the shop it is awesome! I prefer it over the Master Cool hand held hydraulic crimper I also have- that gets used for under car work, where it's an inconvenience to use the vice mounted flaring tool.
The thing I really don't like about the Lisle and others of the same style is that they really bite into the tube to hold onto it. If you're using the ploy coat steel brake lines, the coating is now gone and freshly marred, bare steel is left behind ready to begin rusting.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
I have a knockoff that works great. You just have to tighten everything down real good so there isn't any slippage. The quality of your line cut to begin with has the greatest effect on quality of flare, IMO.
If you've never flared a brake line, on your back, half attached to the car, with fluid dripping out as you work, you're in for a treat.
The first thing I do is to get the car up on stands or blocks. I enjoy doing it . I have a single flair tool and a 3/16 double flare bit . Prep is everything, remembering to slip on the nut PRIOR to flaring is key too. I have a tubing cutter and a file for prep. So far, so good. When I remove a line , I spend more time undoing clips. I use a pair of dikes to cut away the line so I can use a 6 point socket to take the couplers off without drama.
I have a knockoff that works great. You just have to tighten everything down real good so there isn't any slippage. The quality of your line cut to begin with has the greatest effect on quality of flare, IMO.
If you've never flared a brake line, on your back, half attached to the car, with fluid dripping out as you work, you're in for a treat.
The first thing I do is to get the car up on stands or blocks. I enjoy doing it . I have a single flair tool and a 3/16 double flare bit . Prep is everything, remembering to slip on the nut PRIOR to flaring is key too. I have a tubing cutter and a file for prep. So far, so good. When I remove a line , I spend more time undoing clips. I use a pair of dikes to cut away the line so I can use a 6 point socket to take the couplers off without drama.
If you use copper/nickel brake lines then you can use the cheaper flaring tools. If as many Americans baffle me by insisting on doing, you must use steel lines, then you really need a quality flaring tool, the Eastwood tool looks fine, up to the quality of the Sykes Pickavant tool I've been using for the last 30 years.
Claud.
Claud.
Originally Posted By: Claud
If you use copper/nickel brake lines then you can use the cheaper flaring tools. If as many Americans baffle me by insisting on doing, you must use steel lines, then you really need a quality flaring tool, the Eastwood tool looks fine, up to the quality of the Sykes Pickavant tool I've been using for the last 30 years.
Claud.
+1000! 99% of all lines I do are rusted out brake lines, I use NiCopp or Cunifer line either from online retailers or Advance Auto (they have it in stock) and use a cheap OTC tool.
The stuff flares so easy there is no need for high end flaring tools. I have a hydraulic tool for transmission and fuel lines that include push in and clip lines but you certainly don't need it for this stuff, its a little overkill, stainless lines are another story.
I use this cheap tool, it does all the brake lines I run into with no trouble at all.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6502-Master-Brake-Flaring/dp/B0075XHDHI
If you use copper/nickel brake lines then you can use the cheaper flaring tools. If as many Americans baffle me by insisting on doing, you must use steel lines, then you really need a quality flaring tool, the Eastwood tool looks fine, up to the quality of the Sykes Pickavant tool I've been using for the last 30 years.
Claud.
+1000! 99% of all lines I do are rusted out brake lines, I use NiCopp or Cunifer line either from online retailers or Advance Auto (they have it in stock) and use a cheap OTC tool.
The stuff flares so easy there is no need for high end flaring tools. I have a hydraulic tool for transmission and fuel lines that include push in and clip lines but you certainly don't need it for this stuff, its a little overkill, stainless lines are another story.
I use this cheap tool, it does all the brake lines I run into with no trouble at all.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6502-Master-Brake-Flaring/dp/B0075XHDHI
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