Expedition problems

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Originally Posted By: Bladecutter
Too bad you don't have a friend who knows how to use a torque wrench.
You could ask him to do a favor for you, and have him swap out the plugs and that coil, or at the very least, re-torque all the spark plugs if you don't have fresh plugs to install.

Seriously, the fact that you don't know ANYONE who can turn a wrench says quite a bit.
Not a coworker, not a friend, not a family member, not even a neighbor.

I do understand why you can't do it yourself, however.

I also understand why the group of BITOG members who live near you don't want to touch your vehicles, too.

Seriously, take the car to a shop, and get them to fix it before you blow the engine.
Start with the plugs and the one coil, and move up from there to the exhaust manifold, and then to engine replacement.

And stop spending money on anything else.

BC.


Do you really need a torque wrench?

I'd put some anti seize on the threads, and go finger tight and just 1/16 more with a small ratchet.
 
Originally Posted By: Bladecutter
Too bad you don't have a friend who knows how to use a torque wrench.
You could ask him to do a favor for you, and have him swap out the plugs and that coil, or at the very least, re-torque all the spark plugs if you don't have fresh plugs to install.

Seriously, the fact that you don't know ANYONE who can turn a wrench says quite a bit.
Not a coworker, not a friend, not a family member, not even a neighbor.

I do understand why you can't do it yourself, however.

I also understand why the group of BITOG members who live near you don't want to touch your vehicles, too.

Seriously, take the car to a shop, and get them to fix it before you blow the engine.
Start with the plugs and the one coil, and move up from there to the exhaust manifold, and then to engine replacement.

And stop spending money on anything else.

BC.


^^ My Warehouse Manager, Robert, is a handy Floridian transplanted to NJ and we are actually gonna figure this out after work today.

I honestly keep to myself in terms of "seeking out help," FTF. I need to get to "read" a person. So.. my manager is an approachable person.

But this job has too many chiefs.. AND too many Indians/Naa quickative Americans. :confuserd:

We had a quick minute in the Suoervisor's office, and I mentioned this. Exact. Situation. Immediately at the same time I phoned my wife, and said "Get here."

BITOG just saved my [censored]. This truck pulls double and triple duty with the Honda out, for now..

And I mean to PM you, I truly appreciate the other post you made, in response to me. The long and detailed one. Thank you. Please don't think I didn't read it, or appreciate it. Or the time it took to type.
 
Originally Posted By: stxonall8
Should show us how it sounds near and at redline so we can help figure it out better for you


Like a rattle can of spray paint. Krylon.
 
Or... if it goes straight to Corozal.

I wish I could show you a pic of the old plug...

And. Could the other sound (Krylon) be unhappiness with 87 gas? ......
 
In any case.. she is either bringing it here, (she has to take her Mom somewhere. Elderly, etc) and then will come here.. or, straight to Corozal.

I explained to her how they may as well change the plug, too... if the plug is that messed up and its right there.. under the coil.. if it is in fact about to launch. That to me says it may be compressed upward, from below... maybe not enough to dome or concave a piston, that would be my imagination. But. To mutilate the plug? Hey... if it can shoot out, then... I suspect some mutilating happened.. I would love to see its color, electrode.. spark plugs say a lot about an engine.
 
Could be carbon knock might just need to go have some fun with her after you know the plugs are tight there is a tsb on the 4.0 rangers for a knocking fixed with basically an italian tune up
 
Originally Posted By: Bladecutter
Seriously, take the car to a shop, and get them to fix it before you blow the engine.
Start with the plugs and the one coil, and move up from there to the exhaust manifold, and then to engine replacement.

And stop spending money on anything else.

BC.


Yes. This.

Will report back in the afternoon... Bud Light "Strawberry-ita" is only an OK drink, reminded me that I don't really like beer, and now im washing out the aftertaste.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
If your GM high beam switch conks out, get a floor kicker from advance auto. $5 after coupon. You, yes you, can wire this up. The dimmer switch is on the column under the dash with a little metal rod that disappears up towards the turn signal stalk. It has three wires-- unplug it and all your headlights should cease working.

Actually, you can jumper middle wire to outside and get low beams.

The steering columns and all the little pushrods inside get sloppy and junky on high mileage 90's GM beaters.


From the dash, this is the Expedition...hence the "launching sparkplugs" discussion...I once owned a 5.4 L version...I loved the truck, a solid, reliable machine. Ex wife kept it in the divorce...

But back to MP's question - I would get those plugs looked at ASAP. Stripping one out will be expensive to fix. Much more than getting them replaced.

I think the lesson here is: don't ignore problems. They get bigger, and cause damage to additional components, costing more $$ in the long run that fixing them while they're small...
 
Originally Posted By: MalfunctionProne
Originally Posted By: Bladecutter
Seriously, take the car to a shop, and get them to fix it before you blow the engine.
Start with the plugs and the one coil, and move up from there to the exhaust manifold, and then to engine replacement.

And stop spending money on anything else.

BC.


Yes. This.

Will report back in the afternoon... Bud Light "Strawberry-ita" is only an OK drink, reminded me that I don't really like beer, and now im washing out the aftertaste.


Dude, it's not even lunch time yet.

Malt liquor fruit drinks are nasty, especially in the morning.
 
Originally Posted By: MalfunctionProne
In any case.. she is either bringing it here, (she has to take her Mom somewhere. Elderly, etc) and then will come here.. or, straight to Corozal.

I explained to her how they may as well change the plug, too... if the plug is that messed up and its right there.. under the coil.. if it is in fact about to launch. That to me says it may be compressed upward, from below... maybe not enough to dome or concave a piston, that would be my imagination. But. To mutilate the plug? Hey... if it can shoot out, then... I suspect some mutilating happened.. I would love to see its color, electrode.. spark plugs say a lot about an engine.


This posts clearly indicates you have no idea what you are talking about. The plug launching issues has nothing to do with there being anything happening to the piston, it is the fact that it (the plug) is held in by three threads and they sometimes get loose and try to back out, which makes an exhaust leak sound.

This can be exasperated by a misfire condition where somebody continues to drive the vehicle that is knocking/missing on that cylinder, hammering the plug and eventually leading to it ejecting.

OR

Your misfire condition has persisted long enough and you've had enough detonation/knock events that you've destroyed a rod bearing.

BTW, the cost to fix the threads in that cylinder will be several hundred dollars and that is IF you have a local mobile machine shop that can install the proper lock-n-stitch insert.

THIS is why I told you to deal with the important issues IMMEDIATELY and NOT waste money on the bloody Honda, which you did anyway and subsequently do NOT have the funds to deal with the issues on this truck, which we now know, also needs sway bar end links (pretty low down the list now that you have a knock though).

You were warned MANY TIMES, by MANY PEOPLE about the potential ramifications of not dealing with these problems and not driving the vehicle in this state. You didn't listen. If you've nuked the rod bearing, well, I think that does a fantastic job of illustrating how much your line of thinking can cost you. If it is the plug loose in the hole, the threads are already damaged now and it WILL eject even if it is tightened back down. Been there, done that.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: MalfunctionProne
In any case.. she is either bringing it here, (she has to take her Mom somewhere. Elderly, etc) and then will come here.. or, straight to Corozal.

I explained to her how they may as well change the plug, too... if the plug is that messed up and its right there.. under the coil.. if it is in fact about to launch. That to me says it may be compressed upward, from below... maybe not enough to dome or concave a piston, that would be my imagination. But. To mutilate the plug? Hey... if it can shoot out, then... I suspect some mutilating happened.. I would love to see its color, electrode.. spark plugs say a lot about an engine.


This posts clearly indicates you have no idea what you are talking about. The plug launching issues has nothing to do with there being anything happening to the piston, it is the fact that it is held in by three threads and they sometimes get loose and try to back out, which makes an exhaust leak sound.

This can be exasperated by a misfire condition where somebody continues to drive the vehicle that is knocking/missing on that cylinder, hammering the plug and eventually leading to it ejecting.

OR

Your misfire condition has persisted long enough and you've had enough detonation/knock events that you've destroyed a rod bearing.

BTW, the cost to fix the threads in that cylinder will be several hundred dollars and that is IF you have a local mobile machine shop that can install the proper lock-n-stitch insert.

THIS is why I told you to deal with the important issues IMMEDIATELY and NOT waste money on the bloody Honda, which you did anyway and subsequently do NOT have the funds to deal with the issues on this truck, which we now know, also needs sway bar end links (pretty low down the list now that you have a knock though).

You were warned MANY TIMES, by MANY PEOPLE about the potential ramifications of not dealing with these problems and not driving the vehicle in this state. You didn't listen. If you've nuked the rod bearing, well, I think that does a fantastic job of illustrating how much your line of thinking can cost you. If it is the plug loose in the hole, the threads are already damaged now and it WILL eject even if it is tightened back down. Been there, done that.


I lost a coil towing out in the middle of nowhere. Over 100 miles to get home. No cell service, either.

The coil worked above 3500RPM. So drove all the way home, at 55MPH in 3rd gear (manual trans).
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: MalfunctionProne
In any case.. she is either bringing it here, (she has to take her Mom somewhere. Elderly, etc) and then will come here.. or, straight to Corozal.

I explained to her how they may as well change the plug, too... if the plug is that messed up and its right there.. under the coil.. if it is in fact about to launch. That to me says it may be compressed upward, from below... maybe not enough to dome or concave a piston, that would be my imagination. But. To mutilate the plug? Hey... if it can shoot out, then... I suspect some mutilating happened.. I would love to see its color, electrode.. spark plugs say a lot about an engine.


This posts clearly indicates you have no idea what you are talking about. The plug launching issues has nothing to do with there being anything happening to the piston, it is the fact that it is held in by three threads and they sometimes get loose and try to back out, which makes an exhaust leak sound.

This can be exasperated by a misfire condition where somebody continues to drive the vehicle that is knocking/missing on that cylinder, hammering the plug and eventually leading to it ejecting.

OR

Your misfire condition has persisted long enough and you've had enough detonation/knock events that you've destroyed a rod bearing.

BTW, the cost to fix the threads in that cylinder will be several hundred dollars and that is IF you have a local mobile machine shop that can install the proper lock-n-stitch insert.

THIS is why I told you to deal with the important issues IMMEDIATELY and NOT waste money on the bloody Honda, which you did anyway and subsequently do NOT have the funds to deal with the issues on this truck, which we now know, also needs sway bar end links (pretty low down the list now that you have a knock though).

You were warned MANY TIMES, by MANY PEOPLE about the potential ramifications of not dealing with these problems and not driving the vehicle in this state. You didn't listen. If you've nuked the rod bearing, well, I think that does a fantastic job of illustrating how much your line of thinking can cost you. If it is the plug loose in the hole, the threads are already damaged now and it WILL eject even if it is tightened back down. Been there, done that.


Eh

We're getting it looked at in about an hour.

I will report back what happens.

Best I can do....
 
Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
Originally Posted By: MalfunctionProne
Originally Posted By: Bladecutter
Seriously, take the car to a shop, and get them to fix it before you blow the engine.
Start with the plugs and the one coil, and move up from there to the exhaust manifold, and then to engine replacement.

And stop spending money on anything else.

BC.


Yes. This.

Will report back in the afternoon... Bud Light "Strawberry-ita" is only an OK drink, reminded me that I don't really like beer, and now im washing out the aftertaste.


Dude, it's not even lunch time yet.

Malt liquor fruit drinks are nasty, especially in the morning.


lol! Yup.

I am not a drinker, and that drink sort of confirms why! LOL

I should pour the rest of it out when I get home.

Spark plug install and coil install are almost happening.... YAY.
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: MalfunctionProne
In any case.. she is either bringing it here, (she has to take her Mom somewhere. Elderly, etc) and then will come here.. or, straight to Corozal.

I explained to her how they may as well change the plug, too... if the plug is that messed up and its right there.. under the coil.. if it is in fact about to launch. That to me says it may be compressed upward, from below... maybe not enough to dome or concave a piston, that would be my imagination. But. To mutilate the plug? Hey... if it can shoot out, then... I suspect some mutilating happened.. I would love to see its color, electrode.. spark plugs say a lot about an engine.


This posts clearly indicates you have no idea what you are talking about. The plug launching issues has nothing to do with there being anything happening to the piston, it is the fact that it is held in by three threads and they sometimes get loose and try to back out, which makes an exhaust leak sound.

This can be exasperated by a misfire condition where somebody continues to drive the vehicle that is knocking/missing on that cylinder, hammering the plug and eventually leading to it ejecting.

OR

Your misfire condition has persisted long enough and you've had enough detonation/knock events that you've destroyed a rod bearing.

BTW, the cost to fix the threads in that cylinder will be several hundred dollars and that is IF you have a local mobile machine shop that can install the proper lock-n-stitch insert.

THIS is why I told you to deal with the important issues IMMEDIATELY and NOT waste money on the bloody Honda, which you did anyway and subsequently do NOT have the funds to deal with the issues on this truck, which we now know, also needs sway bar end links (pretty low down the list now that you have a knock though).

You were warned MANY TIMES, by MANY PEOPLE about the potential ramifications of not dealing with these problems and not driving the vehicle in this state. You didn't listen. If you've nuked the rod bearing, well, I think that does a fantastic job of illustrating how much your line of thinking can cost you. If it is the plug loose in the hole, the threads are already damaged now and it WILL eject even if it is tightened back down. Been there, done that.


I lost a coil towing out in the middle of nowhere. Over 100 miles to get home. No cell service, either.

The coil worked above 3500RPM. So drove all the way home, at 55MPH in 3rd gear (manual trans).


Happened to my dad too, they had just left the cottage and it started to misfire under load. He had to baby it all the way home to the local Ford dealer and they put in a new coil, it has been fine since.

I had a similar failure on #6 coil, it would miss under load at low RPM and then clear up above 3K. Took it up to Ford (didn't have my reader at the time) to find which cylinder had the high misfire count, then changed it right there in the parking lot.

I've replaced I believe five of the coils on our Expedition, my parents have replaced I think three on theirs. They both have similar mileage. Ours is two years newer.
 
Originally Posted By: MalfunctionProne
Motorcraft Original Equipment Platinum Iridium Spark Plug


They are Platinum, not iridium and certainly not both.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: MalfunctionProne
Motorcraft Original Equipment Platinum Iridium Spark Plug


They are Platinum, not iridium and certainly not both.


Selected ACDelco

... Part # R42LTS

*and all I did was copy/paste from Advance... She is on the way to pick up the plug, and it is gonna be a "changed in the parking lot" kind of deal.

And EVEN IF it is not an EXACT EXACT replacement, it beats the alternative: Being motorless.... Apologies on all the frustration. Please, remember, that I am "special."
 
Originally Posted By: MalfunctionProne


Eh

We're getting it looked at in about an hour.

I will report back what happens.

Best I can do....


I certainly hope this is not the best you can do, that's a ridiculous cop out. The best you could have done was having this dealt with back when it became a known issue.

This reeks of the Volvo saga all over again. Sound advice dismissed, the continued use of a vehicle in dire need of mechanical attention and then eventual failure due to blatant negligence.
 
Originally Posted By: MalfunctionProne
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: MalfunctionProne
Motorcraft Original Equipment Platinum Iridium Spark Plug


They are Platinum, not iridium and certainly not both.


Selected ACDelco

... Part # R42LTS


Why would you put GM plugs in a Ford? Put in the right bloody Motorcraft plugs. Though I would be far more concerned with the knock than spark plug selection at this point.

This is like being concerned about how clean your air filter is when there's a rod hanging out the side of the block.
 
Keep in mind, if that plug is loose, changing it isn't going to fix the damaged threads. There is the VERY real possibility that the threads will come out with the plug or that the new plug will either:

A) Immediately strip

B) Seem to seat, and then in a few days, a week, a month, an hour...etc eject dramatically destroying the coil in the process. I know, because that's exactly what happened to mine. On the same cylinder.

Then it was several hundred dollars to have that plug hole fixed.
 
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