Ever find it hard to go back to dino?

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Originally Posted By: mbell1968
OK, let me get this straight, dino is just as good as synthetic?????? So all the research, money, and science are all just a scam so the oil companies can make more $$$$$$. So people that spend more on oil can feel better?? Give me a break, synthetics are proven to protect better in high heat or extreme cold or for longer OCI's. If your engine does not operate in any of those conditions, great, dino is for you. But to say synthetics and dino protect the same in every situation is just ignorant.


Oh boy... what a loaded question.

My understanding is... Conventional oil and Synthetic are very similar with one exception... durability. If you drive many miles in a short period, you can last 10-15K miles on an oil change interval. This makes it a cost savings to run Synthetic. Conventional is traditionaly considered "Used up" after 6 months or 5K miles. Durability aside, make sure you are driving a clean motor before trying an extended change interval. Oil can only suspend so much contaminate...

On an extended drive interval, it's wise to use a "Super Filter" to keep the oil as clean as posible for the 15K mile period. Some folks will change the filter over that interval without changing the oil.

I hope my understanding of the advantages of Synthetic are correct. I've read a [censored] of a lot of documents. I feel that my cars are in no danger running conventional oil on a 6 month 5K miles whichever comes first interval. In my home region, the rust caused by salty roads will put a car in the grave early.
 
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
I've run conventional in everything I own for many decades.

I've never considered a vehicle a "baby", nor do I feel that using conventional is not "doing what's best".

The vehicle is there to serve my needs and purpose, not for me to impart emotions on it in an attempt to make it feel good.

In some vehicles it makes sense to use a synthetic and there is a benefit when it's used. But the vast majority of vehicles will have service lives that are just as long with conventional engine oil as with synthetic.

On the other hand I do like to make my bank account fat and happy by feeding it all that extra cash that I'm saving by using conventional over synthetic.


An excellent pragmatic post. The distinction between syns and modern conventional are very slim...some 'dinos' today are undoubtedly syn blends or otherwise as capable as lubricants over the expected life of an engine as 'synthetics'.
 
I don't have any issues running conventional for under 5k intervals, over 5k I opt for synthetic. That's of course based on my personal opinion.

Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
On the other hand I do like to make my bank account fat and happy by feeding it all that extra cash that I'm saving by using conventional over synthetic.


I can't imagine $10 an oil change, at most $30 a year in my bank account being some amazing boon to me but maybe my scale of finances is different.

Your post is a good view of cars, they really are utensils but we spend so much time in them that most people develop a bond with them. I personally treat my cars well but I trade them in for a new car without thinking twice.
 
Originally Posted By: Hallmark

An excellent pragmatic post. The distinction between syns and modern conventional are very slim...some 'dinos' today are undoubtedly syn blends or otherwise as capable as lubricants over the expected life of an engine as 'synthetics'.



True....though I'm not sure about the slim part. But still closer than many of us think.

Of bigger concern to me would be the filter and how well it is doing it's job.
 
Once my subie gets a little more age on it, I won't be so anal. I'll probably switch it over to a cheaper synthetic, such as QSUD or Mobil super syn. The car has been getting Mobil 1 since I've owned it, at 80,000 miles, now has 119,000 on it.

Bottom line, I'll stick to synthetic regardless.
 
As of today it's hard for me to use dino in any of my cars, because I used the last quart of dino I had on sale for cheap last year, all the oil in my stash now are various brands syn only, that I paid on average around $2/qt. It doesn't make sense for me to not use the syn oil I have and go out buy dino for more than $2/qt. If I can find brand name dino on sale for 50 cents a quart I would stock up and use it without a doubt.
 
I know exactly what you mean. I've been using nothing but synthetic for the past few years, but recently picked up some dino because I got a great deal I just couldn't pass up. I have some slight trepidations about using it in my cars now (stupid and unreasonable, I know!) but I will use it anyway. It's the same kind of feeling I got the first time I switched from 3k OCIs to 5k. I'll get over it eventually just like I got over that.
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Originally Posted By: sciphi
The Honda will only see synthetic oil due to how it's used and me being paranoid about the Maintenance Minder in that car letting the oil go 11-12k miles between changes. The car gets 50-60 miles a day 5 days a week of no-traffic freeway use, so it's the ideal scenario for using a syn oil.


Yup, me too. No way I'd run a conventional for 10k.
 
Originally Posted By: daves87rs

Yeah, I won't get much benefit on the extended drain, since the car MIGHT see 3k in 6 months.....

The car mentioned is my 2004 Cavalier with the 2.2 Ecotec, which are known to be pretty easy on oil...


Since the GM oil life monitor assumes the use of conventional oil, you won't have any trouble switching from syn to con as far as change interval is concerned. Just use the proper viscosity grade and API service rating, and it'll be good.
 
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Synthetics are superior to dino in cold flow and heat resistance, however that doesn't mean better engine protection.

I equate using synthetic oil for 5k mile OCI's in a car designed for dino, to driving a sports car in traffic jam to work. There is no dispute that the sports car is superior to some econo box in acceleration, braking performance and handling, however these attributes will not get you any faster to work.

Sure, we still have people driving to work in sprts cars, it's their choice and their money, but we do not have these people "preach" how we should all be driving sports cars because the are so superior.


The same thing applies to using synthetic oil. In a car that is designed to use dino and on 5k mile OCI's, synthetic will not protect any better than dino, and will not extend engine life, just like a sports car will not get you faster to work.

Use what you like, but stop spreading marketing slogans as facts.
 
Originally Posted By: mbell1968
OK, let me get this straight, dino is just as good as synthetic?????? So all the research, money, and science are all just a scam so the oil companies can make more $$$$$$. So people that spend more on oil can feel better?? Give me a break, synthetics are proven to protect better in high heat or extreme cold or for longer OCI's. If your engine does not operate in any of those conditions, great, dino is for you. But to say synthetics and dino protect the same in every situation is just ignorant.


Yes, just as ignorant as those folks that say syns are better than dino in every situation, and if you are using dino you are being "cheap" or "not giving your vehicle the best." Synthetics have their advantages in certain instances, but for the most part, conventional oils will work just fine with a proper OCI.
 
Originally Posted By: daves87rs
So, here I am, with two jugs of SM rated Formula Shell 5w30, ready for my oil change change tonight, yet I find myself freaking out (Don't worry, it's only a little bit
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)


Maybe it's because I'm so well trained to use synthetic (it is my "baby", after all) You just get that feeling that you're not doing the best thing for your car (like it's going to hurt it for something), even though you know better. But simply put, I can't justify putting (or wasting the money) synthetic into a car that does not get the benefit of it! The last few times the oil was in pretty good shape, as it was change due to the time frame.....


So today I get to break that mold and still know my car will be just as protected as it would with syn. Granted, I'll probably put a blend in for winter, but the more I'm on this site the better it is to break the trend....besides...I know all that moly will be good for my car....
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Is it just me, or does anyone else get a bit worried when they do this?


Only on BITOG do we worry about this stuff....
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I went back to Conventional oil. And works just fine. (btw) where did you get the jug`s of formula Shell?
 
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Originally Posted By: daves87rs
Originally Posted By: FZ1
I don't worry about it 'cause I don't do it. Synthetic only for me. My car gets fractionally better mpg with synthetic so the syn pays for itself and I don't have to worry,like you.


I'm not that worried....more of a different feel I guess.

I've seen plenty of my type of car and engine drive around with barely an oil change, and most are still running pretty well...
Just joking you,but no doubt syn is a better fluid and doesn't cost more to run,when you buy it at AZ on sale. 5 quarts of M1 EP and an M1 filter for $31 is hard to beat. That's only $4 a quart + a good filter.
 
The only car that gets syn is my wife's Golf, and even then I said to heck with the VW 502 spec on that vehicle. RT6 for the summer in it and a thick 5w30 syn for the winter. Extended drains on it are not of interest to me because of her driving habbits (less than 4k/6mo and mostly short in town trips).

Its got Syntec 5w30 in it right now with about 1qt of Syntec 5w40 as I had 3qts 5w30 and 2qts 5w40 and didn't feel like making an additional purchase for the sake of running "pure" 5w40 in it. Its getting changed over to summer oil this week. Likely RT6 or perhaps RT5. I might even go with a Mobil1 5w30HM.

Buick is currently running G-Oil but only because of the rebate. Then its back to whatever conventional is cheapest at its next service date. The Taurus is running Mobil Super HM 5w30 to help with the leaky valve stem seals.

I visit the forums for interesting information, but as time goes on find myself caring less and less about what goes into each vehicle so long as its a quality product from a reputable oil company.

Filters? Bah! Purolator classic currently on the VW, Motorcraft on the Taurus. The Buick has a Napa Gold only because I got it on sale for less than a Purolator classic.
 
Originally Posted By: JGR

I am going to run Conventional,except in the Winter when I will run Synthetic then.


This is what I do.....syn from Dec to Apr.
 
VWB dino only in the Corolla.

The Subaru has had a mix over the years... mostly PP. I'm using a syn in it this summer for towing. Last summer ran Rotella 15w40 dino.
 
Originally Posted By: lexus114

I went back to Conventional oil. And works just fine. (btw) where did you get the jug`s of formula Shell?



On sale at our local Aco Hardware (MI based) store...I've never seen a FS jug before...
 
Originally Posted By: FZ1
Originally Posted By: daves87rs
Originally Posted By: FZ1
I don't worry about it 'cause I don't do it. Synthetic only for me. My car gets fractionally better mpg with synthetic so the syn pays for itself and I don't have to worry,like you.


I'm not that worried....more of a different feel I guess.

I've seen plenty of my type of car and engine drive around with barely an oil change, and most are still running pretty well...
Just joking you,but no doubt syn is a better fluid and doesn't cost more to run,when you buy it at AZ on sale. 5 quarts of M1 EP and an M1 filter for $31 is hard to beat. That's only $4 a quart + a good filter.



I know..
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, and very true.
 
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I honestly just switched oil teams about 10 minutes ago. For certain people synthetics are better suited, myself for example will continue to use synthetic, actually a syn-blend, Durablend since it has better cold flow properties then many full synthetics for much less price during the winter Nov-May. During the summer though there is no need run a synthetic for me.

What really made me come to this realization though is that car manufacturers today are extending their OCIs further and further still only requiring conventional. If the manufacturers are willing to put their necks out there so to speak then I'm certain that a conventional oil will meet my needs perfectly.
 
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