Daily commute with the Buick is now 7 miles one way at near high way speeds on low traffic two way road ; normal service - is a synthetic oil better in this situation or a conventional dino (or does it matter ?) Also , if this is basically all the car is used for please recommend an OCI for your choice - thanks !!
etic or Conventional Better for Short Tripper ?
- Thread starter ChrisD46
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Use a Dexos rated conventional oil and follow the OLM. OC at 20% OLM remaining.
Living in Georgia a good synthetic should be able to do 10k intervals easily with this type of driving.
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
Daily commute with the Buick is now 7 miles one way at near high way speeds on low traffic two way road ; normal service - is a synthetic oil better in this situation or a conventional dino (or does it matter ?) Also , if this is basically all the car is used for please recommend an OCI for your choice - thanks !!
It won't make any difference what the base stock is over a moderate OCI, just make sure the oil is the right grade and type. Then take a good look at your OCI, as it might need reducing if you spend too much time stuck in traffic, although it's best to answer that question with a UOA including TBN.
Oil filters are also important as is using a major brand (Castrol, Mobil, Shell or Liqui Moly), if you want to use something cheap then take a good look at what is in the oils additives, as the additives included in an engine oil can make a big difference for the new X/20's in particular.
Daily commute with the Buick is now 7 miles one way at near high way speeds on low traffic two way road ; normal service - is a synthetic oil better in this situation or a conventional dino (or does it matter ?) Also , if this is basically all the car is used for please recommend an OCI for your choice - thanks !!
It won't make any difference what the base stock is over a moderate OCI, just make sure the oil is the right grade and type. Then take a good look at your OCI, as it might need reducing if you spend too much time stuck in traffic, although it's best to answer that question with a UOA including TBN.
Oil filters are also important as is using a major brand (Castrol, Mobil, Shell or Liqui Moly), if you want to use something cheap then take a good look at what is in the oils additives, as the additives included in an engine oil can make a big difference for the new X/20's in particular.
What does your owners manual say? If 7 miles is considered a short trip buy Buick, I would say go synthetic to take advantage of a beefier add pack to reduce acids from water and fuel dilution. If not, a conventional would be fine.
For example, my Honda owner's manual for the 2.0 liter engine says 5 miles is a short trip, but the 3.8 liter Grand Caravan's manual says 10 miles is a short trip. I think it's because it takes longer to get the larger engine up to full operating temp.
For example, my Honda owner's manual for the 2.0 liter engine says 5 miles is a short trip, but the 3.8 liter Grand Caravan's manual says 10 miles is a short trip. I think it's because it takes longer to get the larger engine up to full operating temp.
Get a name brand synthetic and change it every 5k/6months, i would use a PureOne filter.
The additives are not any better just because an oil is synthetic, in fact many conventional HDEO's have higher levels of additives. It's the overall quality that counts.
Originally Posted By: ChuckBerry
What does your owners manual say? If 7 miles is considered a short trip buy Buick, I would say go synthetic to take advantage of a beefier add pack to reduce acids from water and fuel dilution. If not, a conventional would be fine.
For example, my Honda owner's manual for the 2.0 liter engine says 5 miles is a short trip, but the 3.8 liter Grand Caravan's manual says 10 miles is a short trip. I think it's because it takes longer to get the larger engine up to full operating temp.
Beefier ad pack? From the VOA's I have seen conventional and synthetics have about the same additive levels unless you are comparing something like Amsoil SS then that is a different animal.
What does your owners manual say? If 7 miles is considered a short trip buy Buick, I would say go synthetic to take advantage of a beefier add pack to reduce acids from water and fuel dilution. If not, a conventional would be fine.
For example, my Honda owner's manual for the 2.0 liter engine says 5 miles is a short trip, but the 3.8 liter Grand Caravan's manual says 10 miles is a short trip. I think it's because it takes longer to get the larger engine up to full operating temp.
Beefier ad pack? From the VOA's I have seen conventional and synthetics have about the same additive levels unless you are comparing something like Amsoil SS then that is a different animal.
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Originally Posted By: dave1251
Beefier ad pack? From the VOA's I have seen conventional and synthetics have about the same additive levels
I've noticed that as well. Makes me wonder if there's really any or much difference between a dino and its synth sibling?
Beefier ad pack? From the VOA's I have seen conventional and synthetics have about the same additive levels
I've noticed that as well. Makes me wonder if there's really any or much difference between a dino and its synth sibling?
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Beefier ad pack? From the VOA's I have seen conventional and synthetics have about the same additive levels
I've noticed that as well. Makes me wonder if there's really any or much difference between a dino and its synth sibling?
A good full synthetic will not suffer as much high temp shearing as a conventional oil, so it will stay in grade for longer, BUT the less viscosity improvers the better rule also has to be considered, so a 15w40 will stay in grade slightly longer than an 0/40. This means if you don't need the 0 part, a 5W it is slightly better in oil life terms.
It is more important to pick an oil with good anti wear and extreme pressure additives if you use a 20 grade, because the oil film is going to be thinner and that means you are more likely to need them to prevent metal to metal contacts from occuring in the bearings. 0/20's are normally full synthetics but most 5/20's are not and as you want to stay in grade at the lower end of safe viscosity limits, the full synthetic 0/20's are a better idea, although there are a few full synthetic 5/20's available. If you use X/20's I would give the syn blends a miss, as they should be called dino blends.
If you use a 5w30 in an engine that is fairly new and approved for a 5/20 or 30 you can use a cheap oil without ill effects. For example Castrol GTX 5w30 will produce just as good a result as Edge 5w30 until it shears down too far because the OCI was too long, although very few users do long enough OCI's to see that difference.
Cummins do warn users that there is no difference in OCI terms between a conventional and full synthetic, because both suffer contamination from fuel and carbon in the long term and it is the contamination that requires the oil should be changed, not the shearing in their engines.
Short tripping does contaminate an oil, so in the OP's case a full synthetic might be a waste of money, but only a UOA can tell.
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Beefier ad pack? From the VOA's I have seen conventional and synthetics have about the same additive levels
I've noticed that as well. Makes me wonder if there's really any or much difference between a dino and its synth sibling?
A good full synthetic will not suffer as much high temp shearing as a conventional oil, so it will stay in grade for longer, BUT the less viscosity improvers the better rule also has to be considered, so a 15w40 will stay in grade slightly longer than an 0/40. This means if you don't need the 0 part, a 5W it is slightly better in oil life terms.
It is more important to pick an oil with good anti wear and extreme pressure additives if you use a 20 grade, because the oil film is going to be thinner and that means you are more likely to need them to prevent metal to metal contacts from occuring in the bearings. 0/20's are normally full synthetics but most 5/20's are not and as you want to stay in grade at the lower end of safe viscosity limits, the full synthetic 0/20's are a better idea, although there are a few full synthetic 5/20's available. If you use X/20's I would give the syn blends a miss, as they should be called dino blends.
If you use a 5w30 in an engine that is fairly new and approved for a 5/20 or 30 you can use a cheap oil without ill effects. For example Castrol GTX 5w30 will produce just as good a result as Edge 5w30 until it shears down too far because the OCI was too long, although very few users do long enough OCI's to see that difference.
Cummins do warn users that there is no difference in OCI terms between a conventional and full synthetic, because both suffer contamination from fuel and carbon in the long term and it is the contamination that requires the oil should be changed, not the shearing in their engines.
Short tripping does contaminate an oil, so in the OP's case a full synthetic might be a waste of money, but only a UOA can tell.
http://www.pennzoil.com/motor-oil/pennzoil-synthetic-blend-dexos1/
Do this and change every 3k or six months. Oh the change oil light is the oil monitor light. I have one in my 2006 Vue and owners manual calls it oil life monitor but light states change oil with no percentages shown. If you get Scangauge 2 then you would get percentages.
Do this and change every 3k or six months. Oh the change oil light is the oil monitor light. I have one in my 2006 Vue and owners manual calls it oil life monitor but light states change oil with no percentages shown. If you get Scangauge 2 then you would get percentages.
I have a short tripper. My commute to work is 6.1 miles. This year the vehicle will be driven around 7700 miles and I do a yearly OCI with 0W-20 Mobil AFE and a Mobil EP oil filter. I've been doing yearly OCI's for three years on this 1999 GS400. While the vehicle isn't just used for that commute it really is never driven for more than half an hour and, e.g., only once in the last three years have I driven it +40 miles continuously.
I'd recommend using a quality dino for about 4,000 miles/4-6 months or a quality synthetic for 6,000-8,000 miles/8-12 months. If you are going to push the envelope and then have an UOA done to ensure the oil can last.
I'd recommend using a quality dino for about 4,000 miles/4-6 months or a quality synthetic for 6,000-8,000 miles/8-12 months. If you are going to push the envelope and then have an UOA done to ensure the oil can last.
Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Beefier ad pack? From the VOA's I have seen conventional and synthetics have about the same additive levels
I've noticed that as well. Makes me wonder if there's really any or much difference between a dino and its synth sibling?
A good full synthetic will not suffer as much high temp shearing as a conventional oil, so it will stay in grade for longer, BUT the less viscosity improvers the better rule also has to be considered, so a 15w40 will stay in grade slightly longer than an 0/40. This means if you don't need the 0 part, a 5W it is slightly better in oil life terms.
It is more important to pick an oil with good anti wear and extreme pressure additives if you use a 20 grade, because the oil film is going to be thinner and that means you are more likely to need them to prevent metal to metal contacts from occuring in the bearings. 0/20's are normally full synthetics but most 5/20's are not and as you want to stay in grade at the lower end of safe viscosity limits, the full synthetic 0/20's are a better idea, although there are a few full synthetic 5/20's available. If you use X/20's I would give the syn blends a miss, as they should be called dino blends.
If you use a 5w30 in an engine that is fairly new and approved for a 5/20 or 30 you can use a cheap oil without ill effects. For example Castrol GTX 5w30 will produce just as good a result as Edge 5w30 until it shears down too far because the OCI was too long, although very few users do long enough OCI's to see that difference.
Cummins do warn users that there is no difference in OCI terms between a conventional and full synthetic, because both suffer contamination from fuel and carbon in the long term and it is the contamination that requires the oil should be changed, not the shearing in their engines.
Short tripping does contaminate an oil, so in the OP's case a full synthetic might be a waste of money, but only a UOA can tell.
Sir this information was very sense able circa 2003 but in 2013 in this particular application if a "synthetic" or a conventional is used the UOA results in regards shearing, TBN retention, and effects of fuel dilution on both will be more similar than different.
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Beefier ad pack? From the VOA's I have seen conventional and synthetics have about the same additive levels
I've noticed that as well. Makes me wonder if there's really any or much difference between a dino and its synth sibling?
A good full synthetic will not suffer as much high temp shearing as a conventional oil, so it will stay in grade for longer, BUT the less viscosity improvers the better rule also has to be considered, so a 15w40 will stay in grade slightly longer than an 0/40. This means if you don't need the 0 part, a 5W it is slightly better in oil life terms.
It is more important to pick an oil with good anti wear and extreme pressure additives if you use a 20 grade, because the oil film is going to be thinner and that means you are more likely to need them to prevent metal to metal contacts from occuring in the bearings. 0/20's are normally full synthetics but most 5/20's are not and as you want to stay in grade at the lower end of safe viscosity limits, the full synthetic 0/20's are a better idea, although there are a few full synthetic 5/20's available. If you use X/20's I would give the syn blends a miss, as they should be called dino blends.
If you use a 5w30 in an engine that is fairly new and approved for a 5/20 or 30 you can use a cheap oil without ill effects. For example Castrol GTX 5w30 will produce just as good a result as Edge 5w30 until it shears down too far because the OCI was too long, although very few users do long enough OCI's to see that difference.
Cummins do warn users that there is no difference in OCI terms between a conventional and full synthetic, because both suffer contamination from fuel and carbon in the long term and it is the contamination that requires the oil should be changed, not the shearing in their engines.
Short tripping does contaminate an oil, so in the OP's case a full synthetic might be a waste of money, but only a UOA can tell.
Sir this information was very sense able circa 2003 but in 2013 in this particular application if a "synthetic" or a conventional is used the UOA results in regards shearing, TBN retention, and effects of fuel dilution on both will be more similar than different.
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