Yes.
Engine vibration after rebuild
- Thread starter Jonas
- Start date
Well that’s good. As far as I have seen there is no such thing as an acceptable aftermarket mount. I’m sure it’s been expensive to have all of those replaced.
AZjeff
$50 Site Donor 2023
Sorry for your ongoing problem with your car. Got nothing constructive other than thinking there's a lesson in this mess somewhere.
I'll bet the South Main Auto guy could figure this out with his diagnostic tool. You need someone who knows THIS CAR.
I'll bet the South Main Auto guy could figure this out with his diagnostic tool. You need someone who knows THIS CAR.
I bet. I'll try to email him or something. At this point I mostly just want to know why that one mount can't support the engine. I could see it failing in real time-very slowly sinking down. The other three aren't even fatigued.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Have you ever had a CV axle replaced on the car? I had a similar RPM vibration with my previous VW after having an aftermarket CV axle installed.
Not that I know of. Did it vibrate in park and in drive at idle?
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Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
In park and driving at the RPMs, can’t remember the rpms at this point. Somewhere around 2k
Mine vibrates from about 800 to 1000 RPM regardless of load. With all the accessories off it idles below that and you'd never know anything was wrong, except you get a very brief "brrr" when accelerating until it excedes 1000-1200 RPM. It's perfectly smooth above and below that range.
The new mount is partially holding up so far, as in it hasn't failed all the way yet. It's not as low as before and the bulge underneath is smaller. The vibrations seemed different, but not really any less and still obvious (felt in the pedals, steering wheel, rear view mirror visibly shaking) tonight during my shift. Maybe replacing the other mounts raised the engine some. I'm tempted to carefully install one more without any tension or force to see how it does. They did install it before they replaced the rear mount, maybe even first. The engine looks like it sits slightly higher now.
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Stop. Stop.
leave it alone for a month … it’s become an obsession and you are just guessing now. Since the work being done is guesswork, you have no real chance at success unless you mistakingly run into it by accident. And we aren’t there and can’t see it with our own eyes. we run into this troubleshooting computer issues, trying the same command again and again and wondering why it’s not working this time with the same command, again. You’re about to lose more money. Take a break, drive it for a month. Save some money, take it to the dealer or someone who specifically knows this car. These shake at lowest rpms when there’s a mount problem. The 800-1000 deserves an educated eye.
leave it alone for a month … it’s become an obsession and you are just guessing now. Since the work being done is guesswork, you have no real chance at success unless you mistakingly run into it by accident. And we aren’t there and can’t see it with our own eyes. we run into this troubleshooting computer issues, trying the same command again and again and wondering why it’s not working this time with the same command, again. You’re about to lose more money. Take a break, drive it for a month. Save some money, take it to the dealer or someone who specifically knows this car. These shake at lowest rpms when there’s a mount problem. The 800-1000 deserves an educated eye.
Yes, I agree it would be foolish to spend any more money on it until I find out for sure what's wrong. I actually wasn't planning to spend any more money, but the mechanic told me my mounts were bad and replacing them would fix it. They weren't and it didn't. Still pretty hot about that.
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How does it look? lol These may be the wrong plugs for my car. There are two options in the owner's manual and these are not them. However, all the parts stores say these are suitable. I just put in a new set of OEM Densos. The vibration is about the same, but I have considerably more power. Could this have been from earlier when my fuel trims were out of wack? I hope these were just the wrong heat range.
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Can anyone who is good at reading spark plugs tell me what this looks like? Also, one of the plugs would not go in quite all the way. It stopped turning by hand, but it was harder to tighten than the other ones like the crush washer hadn't made contact. The plug previously in that hole was too easy to take out (they were all pretty easy-not very tight) There was crud on the threads and what looked like aluminum (gray, soft bits). The car runs much better now, but I worry about that one wonky plug. It's too far out by about 2 cm.
Don't run the car when one plug is more out by about 20 mm compared to the other plugs. The crud on that thread is due to blow-by. Thoroughly double-check this thread!
Thread of the spark plug you mean?
Unlikely. It's the (soft) aluminium counterpart = cylinder head what fails.
Back on topic, I've been reading about compression issues causing vibration. I've noticed the vibration is most intense when decelerating to a stop. Also, on cold start it's really bad as the rpms settle/go down. One more thing, the vibration lessens just as I stop, but intensifies the longer I sit (not just because I'm annoyed at a stop light 
I read that leaking valves can cause compression and vacuum issues. The valves have nearly 200k on them and, even though the pistons are new, my car is still consuming a little oil. My spark plugs also indicate oil contamination-at least on top.
I read that leaking valves can cause compression and vacuum issues. The valves have nearly 200k on them and, even though the pistons are new, my car is still consuming a little oil. My spark plugs also indicate oil contamination-at least on top.