Engine tapping noise - Dodge 4.7

Joined
May 29, 2020
Messages
25
Location
Kentucky
I bought a Durango with a 4.7 V8 engine, with 322,000 miles. It had a very light tap-tap-tap noise when I bought it, thought it to be a lifter as they're notorious for failing in these engines. A few weeks ago I pulled the valve covers and replaced ALL of the lifters with Melling brand ones. I soaked them in clean oil for 48 hours before installing them. While doing lifters, I noticed a timing chain guide was broken so I also replaced all of the timing set with a new Cloyes chain, tensioners, and guides.

The lifters I removed were very worn. I could squeeze them with literally zero effort. They weren't stiff like the new ones were.

I also replaced the exhaust manifold gaskets a few months ago, which eliminated many of my exhaust noise anomalies. I'm wondering if I could still have a little exhaust leak somewhere there though.

Everything went back together great, everything torques to spec. Engine started right up, and runs well. However now, I'm getting an even louder tap-tap-tap at idle. It's basically the same tapping I heard before, but louder now. It seems to disappear once I rev the engine just a little bit. Even a couple hundred RPM seems to either mask or eliminate the noise. It's completely gone at cruise speed or even at any RPM above idle.

Mechanical gauge oil PSI is a solid 70 PSI at cold start/idle. Above 50 PSI at hot cruise, 1500 RPM. If it kicks out of O/D, at 2000 RPM I see about 60 PSI. At hot idle, I'm seeing dead on 20 PSI. The gauge immediately responds to RPM change.

I know all of the lifters are good. I know the timing set is good. I know that all of the rocker arms are back in place correctly as I installed them personally. Where could the noise be coming from?

I really don't think it's a rod knock based on other videos I've watched. Rod knock sounds "deeper" and mine doesn't seem to sound this way. It's more of a higher pitched "tap" instead of a more solid "knock".
 
It could be another part in the valve train, the cam itself, followers, etc. try to localize it with a stethoscope. It is almost impossible to guess based on this information. With that many miles it could be almost anything. Personally I would have done a lower mile used engine before getting deep into this one.
 
If your lifters were that worn, cam lobe damage wouldn’t be too much of a stretch to blame this on.

have also heard some 4.7s develop rod knocks. It’s not a lower end noise is it?
 
Oil pressure sounds decent, I'm with Trav, could be a follower or something, with the mileage, who really knows. Try and isolate it as best you can.
 
I remember the last time I changed lifters on something you had to do some kind of break in procedure. Which meant holding the engine at 2000-2500 rpm for a certain amount of time, then varying the rpm a bit. Did you do anything like that? I'm not sure if it applies to all engines, but it makes sense that all hydraulic ones would be similar.
 
Aren't these engines notorious for dropping valve seats? Sometimes, a loose one will cause a tick noise, just before destruction...
 
Aren't these engines notorious for dropping valve seats? Sometimes, a loose one will cause a tick noise, just before destruction...
dropped valve seats are due to overheating almost without exception

when you notice you’re in the middle an overheat situation and running extra crispy DO NOT shut off the engine, get up to speed and do anything in your power to bring temps down and then shut it off. at some point it’s just up to luck.

if your car has an unmarked C/H temp gauge or a buffered idiot light i’d definitely consider one of those digital obd2 gauges.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top