engine oil for storing vehicle, Ams Z-rod or other

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si1491

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Hello everyone,
I have to store my 03 Toyota Matrix (1ZZFE) for the next 3-6 years, in a vehicle storage facility that will start the car and warm it up once a month but will not perform any other maintenance such as changing fluids or driving the vehicle around (they say they will move it forward a few inches in a few months, then move it back a few inches after another few months). Prior to turning over the vehicle to them, I was going to change the oil (and other fluids) but wanted to know what you think might be the better oil to go with, Amsoil 10-30 Z-rod or something else such as the AZO 0-30, ASL 5-30, etc..

Thanks
 
There was uoa from tractor that was sitting in the field for 30 years. UOA result wasn't that bad at all. Use the cheapest oil
smile.gif
 
I would do AZO and leave all the other fluid alone. Max out your tire pressures to the number posted on the sidewall. And put some fuel stabilizer in the gasoline.

When you get it out of storage, change ALL the fluids and filters.

Why are you storing it for so long, just wondering
 
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Most all oils have rust inhibitors. If they are going to start it every month, I wouldn't worry about spending big $ on oil. Your engine will be all good.
 
Start it up every month and let it idle? How come no one is discussing the potential damage caused by this method? I see a ton of moisture accumulation happening with this method. That cannot be good.
 
Originally Posted By: propuckstopper
Start it up every month and let it idle? How come no one is discussing the potential damage caused by this method? I see a ton of moisture accumulation happening with this method. That cannot be good.


Exactly! It's never going to be able to come up to temperature, so there's going to be moisture in the oil. On top of that, there's probably going to be some fuel dilution since it's always going to be running rich.

Cars don't like to sit. I'd rather sell it and buy something else; a car that sits is going to have a lot of oddball problems.

As for the tires, I'd try to find some bald tires / old tires on CL or maybe go to a junkyard and grab some donuts to throw on while it sits. even if they move it once a month, it's not going to be good for the tires.
 
Originally Posted By: si1491
Hello everyone,
I have to store my 03 Toyota Matrix (1ZZFE) for the next 3-6 years, in a vehicle storage facility that will start the car and warm it up once a month but will not perform any other maintenance such as changing fluids or driving the vehicle around (they say they will move it forward a few inches in a few months, then move it back a few inches after another few months). Prior to turning over the vehicle to them, I was going to change the oil (and other fluids) but wanted to know what you think might be the better oil to go with, Amsoil 10-30 Z-rod or something else such as the AZO 0-30, ASL 5-30, etc..

Thanks


Rotella T5 10w30 from Walmart and a cheap Purolator oil filter then go to West Marine and get some oil stabilizer.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/sto...-1#.UQACsR1EHTo

We service some marine engines and use this or the Starbrite brand. Some of these engines sit for 2+ years and start right up with no issues at all. You also want to put a triple dose of Marine Stabil in the fuel. This will keep your fuels system clean and lubricated. Store with the fuel tank 95% full. Do not be afraid to dose it 3x the directions to last that long.

http://www.goldeagle.com/products/product3CC6.aspx
 
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I like the idea of using Z-rod for this. I think it is ideal for this sort of application.

While starting and running is important, it is mainly so for the health of the AC system seals. Id prefer NOT to start it up otherwise. Instead, Id jack it up a bit to take weight off, and disconnect the battery.
 
Originally Posted By: propuckstopper
Start it up every month and let it idle? How come no one is discussing the potential damage caused by this method? I see a ton of moisture accumulation happening with this method. That cannot be good.


perhaps because few have experience with long term storage or collections.

I worked for years with an avid collector with a sizable group of cars in a large warehouse facility. His one IRONCLAD rule: Never start a car and let it idle, you had to plan to drive it for at least 20-30 minutes minimum or don't even crank it!
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: propuckstopper
Start it up every month and let it idle? How come no one is discussing the potential damage caused by this method? I see a ton of moisture accumulation happening with this method. That cannot be good.


perhaps because few have experience with long term storage or collections.

I worked for years with an avid collector with a sizable group of cars in a large warehouse facility. His one IRONCLAD rule: Never start a car and let it idle, you had to plan to drive it for at least 20-30 minutes minimum or don't even crank it!


See my comments above. The problem is that the AC system would not like this. I totally agree that I wouldnt want to run it often that way, and driving (load makes heat, idle doesnt) is key to making it happen.

But to let it sit a long time without AC use means degradation of seals and the system. MB in their manuals recommends operating AC at least once a month for that very reason.

What is needed, I suppose, is a motor/belt to run the AC without the engine on. With a high current float charger and a motor to turn the compressor, one could run the AC without running the car.

This will be moot once we get electrically-operated AC in cars!
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: propuckstopper
Start it up every month and let it idle? How come no one is discussing the potential damage caused by this method? I see a ton of moisture accumulation happening with this method. That cannot be good.


perhaps because few have experience with long term storage or collections.

I worked for years with an avid collector with a sizable group of cars in a large warehouse facility. His one IRONCLAD rule: Never start a car and let it idle, you had to plan to drive it for at least 20-30 minutes minimum or don't even crank it!


This is what I have been doing for years...I know a few guys that have large collections and this is what I was told to do.
 
Some (like Castrol) oil companies make a high TBN 15w40 vpi tractor oil that would likely be ideal, and not as expensive as Amsoil.

Z-Rod sounds fine, and the layout over 3 years is nothing compared to the cost of storage I guess.
 
As far as storing a vehicle goes never start it unless you plan on driving it. All it does is wear the engine and dilutes the oil.
When storing a vehicle,indoors,pump up the tires to a few pounds over max on the sidewall,fog the intake,sta-bil in the fuel,,change the oil and unhook the battery. Then leave it.
Use a high mileage oil or an oil with some seal swellers to negate the drying out of the gaskets and call er done.
Do NOT start the vehicle while in storage. And fog the intake,also important for extended periods of storage.
Done. Moving the car a couple inches is pointless. Today's tires don't flat spot,and don't start it unless youre going to drive it.
 
I don't think engine oil is going to be your problem.
I suspect that every part with any kind of elastomerics, from the engine oil seals through the brake cylinders will leak like a sieve after 3-6 years of storage.
This car is neither rare nor valuable.
Unless this particular car has some specisl sentimental value to you, sell it and buy another in 3-6 years.
The cost of storage alone will be huge and may exceed the value of the car.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
And fog the intake,also important for extended periods of storage.
Done. Moving the car a couple inches is pointless. Today's tires don't flat spot,and don't start it unless youre going to drive it.


Tires do still flat spot unfortunately. Maybe not as bad??

How do you fog the intake? Run without air filter and just spray some in there? Just spray some or do you spray until it dies?

Any downside to fogging?
 
Interesting points above.

Note that how/where it is stored is huge. Outside under a shed? Indoors? Climate controlled? Ozone free?

It should be noted that modern tires do not PERMANENTLY flat spot anymore. They still develop a thump and need a few miles to limber up, though.

I like to fog the intake on any 4 stroke engine as the valves can rust to the guides, etc. It can't hurt anything if done sparingly/correctly.
 
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