Engine of Unknown conditions.

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in the next couple weeks, whenever our schedules finally sync up, I'm gonna change the oil in my buddy's 03 Pontiac Vibe, which I'm sure you all know is really a Toyota matrix(same factory,only a handful of parts difference).
we know nothing of this car's history prior to the summer of '10, when he bought it with ~120k Mi., other than we've figured out it was in some sort of wreck, and the body work to the front end was shoddy and cheaply done (no fender liners, front passenger door window won;t operate b/c the internal structures that the motors mount to are all bent/broken. none of the angles/gaps around the hood line up/are even, etc.

Anywho, since he bought it, he's been trying to keep up with the oil changes, but he's not mechanically inclined enough to do them himself, the the current economy has kicked his butt enough, that he goes over a bit. currently using car to deliver pizza's, so plenty of miles getting racked up, his current OCI, the 3 month window still has better part of a month to go, the miles, due @139666, last check he was @ 141058. (yes,20k mostly city miles in little more than a year)

now that I've rambled a bit, what 5w30 would Y'all recommend, to clean this Toyota 1ZZ-FE up?
I have an k&n hp-1003 en route from amazon($9.30), and i have a 5 qt jug of Valvoline nextgen Maxlife 5w30, which is easily returnable, if you can recommend something better..

also, kinda a noob here, and not figuring out all the acronyms yet, so plain english please
 
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I would have gone with a cheap oversized filter if one can fit, and some Pennzoil Ultra 5w30. That's an oil known to clean up nicely. Save the K&N for a longer oil change. For the next few oil changes, cheap filters changed often are good.
 
I would say stick with the better filter since he seems like he would rather let it go longer, you can pick up a good synthetic and tell him see you in 5k miles without worry.
 
Id put some Maxlife Nextgen 5w30 in her and the biggest filter you can find, 4-5k mile oci, repeat. Should work well. If it uses oil, then .. well it probably wont, but try 5W-20 if it uses some. Try that before going thicker, if it does.

You should be good to go on that. Heck, even Supertech 5w30 will do. Your choice.
 
Can you see anything through the oil fill cap?
How does it look?
I'd probably try a short change or two of cheap dino, and both PYB and QSGB can be found quite cheaply and are very good oils.
The Nexgen Maxlife is very good as well, being identical on paper to red bottle Maxlife SB.
OTOH, if this guy is inclined to let oil changes slide, maybe you should go with the K&N and a good syn, like M1 HM or EP, PP or Ultra.
Any of these oils should hold up well in an unintended extended drain interval.
I'd explain to him that no ride equals no pizza delivery and no income, so it is to his advantage to take care of his car.
Lima is not exactly a hotbed of economic opportunity in a state that hasn't got much going for it at the moment.
His butt will be a lot more kicked if the car he depends upon for his income dies as a result of sludge.
 
Well, I dunno about how it looks, I'm in lima, he's in columbus. As was stated in my original post, I haven't figured out the acronyms on here yet, so plain english for now please. His last car, he never changed the oil, cus it was leaking enough he was always puttiing some in.....I know...
 
so as i'm looking @ the acronyms, here's what i'm getting:
yes?, no? (is there a primer/cheat sheet around here somewhere?)
PYB= Pennzoil Yellow Bottle/Plain Yellow Bottle
QSGB= Quaker State Green Bottle
M1 HM or EP= Mobil 1 High Milage, or Extended Protection
PP or ultra= Pennzoil Platinum or Pennzoil Ultra.

How'd I Do?
 
^ Pretty good, you're gettin' it
smile.gif


With that, I'd suggest PYB 5w20. It cleans well!
There's a story behind that proclamaition.
wink.gif
 
Returned the Maxlife Nextgen today, got a 5qt PYJ (Pennzoil Yellow Jug) 5w30. (which honestly is where my gut said to go all along,
gotta learn to listen to it more!)
Now just to get our days off to sync up....(since we live 100mi apart)
 
Originally Posted By: earlyre
so as i'm looking @ the acronyms, here's what i'm getting:
yes?, no? (is there a primer/cheat sheet around here somewhere?)
PYB= Pennzoil Yellow Bottle/Plain Yellow Bottle
QSGB= Quaker State Green Bottle
M1 HM or EP= Mobil 1 High Milage, or Extended Protection
PP or ultra= Pennzoil Platinum or Pennzoil Ultra.

How'd I Do?

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think QSGB is also known as QSAD.
 
ok, to bring back an old thread, just for kicks, I got around to putting in the PYB 5w30, and K&N Filter back on about 12/01/11, today,(03/25/12) it finally came out. He hit 4k about a month ago, but this is the first we've had days off sync where the other didn't have a prior engagement.

so out with the old, in with the new!
Put in Formula Shell 5w30, with a Quaker State Filter, (from the menards sale back in Feb.-$1.99/Qt, $1.99/Filter, no rebates FTW!)
In the nearly 4 months this was in, he ended up putting 6,9xx mi on the car.
Sample collected & waiting for the post office to open Monday morn to send off to Blackstone.

What really Suprised me after hacking the K&N Filter apart, was how IDENTICAL it is to the (non-ecore) STP Filter i hacked open.(the $9.99 mobil/stp deal @ autozone last month)only real diffrence i could see(with the exception of the virgin vs.oil saturated media)was the..ADBV?(rubbery thingy up on the engine end)on the STP it was a Black Material, on the K&N, Rubberband/dodgeball Red. same basic cartridge, same bypass Valve, similar can thickness, etc.

Unfortunately The Filter was thrown out during cleanup before i could snap pics... Didn't really see a lot of gunk in the pleats, few sand grain sized particles in the "wash" @ bottom(dome end) of the can.
 
Originally Posted By: earlyre
ok, to bring back an old thread, just for kicks, I got around to putting in the PYB 5w30, and K&N Filter back on about 12/01/11, today,(03/25/12) it finally came out. He hit 4k about a month ago, but this is the first we've had days off sync where the other didn't have a prior engagement.

so out with the old, in with the new!
Put in Formula Shell 5w30, with a Quaker State Filter, (from the menards sale back in Feb.-$1.99/Qt, $1.99/Filter, no rebates FTW!)
In the nearly 4 months this was in, he ended up putting 6,9xx mi on the car.
Sample collected & waiting for the post office to open Monday morn to send off to Blackstone.

What really Suprised me after hacking the K&N Filter apart, was how IDENTICAL it is to the (non-ecore) STP Filter i hacked open.(the $9.99 mobil/stp deal @ autozone last month)only real diffrence i could see(with the exception of the virgin vs.oil saturated media)was the..ADBV?(rubbery thingy up on the engine end)on the STP it was a Black Material, on the K&N, Rubberband/dodgeball Red. same basic cartridge, same bypass Valve, similar can thickness, etc.

Unfortunately The Filter was thrown out during cleanup before i could snap pics... Didn't really see a lot of gunk in the pleats, few sand grain sized particles in the "wash" @ bottom(dome end) of the can.


I am sure this could start an heated discussion but I have been more concern how much an filter restricts flow than how much it filters. As long as filtration is comparable to most "high end" filters. I would have no problems using Fram's orange can if the price was around 2.50-3.00 dollars.
 
Also thanks for the update this Combo of FS and an QS filter will be a nice be a cost effective yet an very effective lubrication combo you have made a nice choice.
 
I'm really interested to see how the UOA comes back w/ nearly 7k of hard city driving on PYB Conventional.

70-100mi/day,5-6 days/week, stop & Go City Pizza delivery Miles.

but you know the old Slogan.
Stop. Go. Pennzoil.

also we now start the crafting of a frankenbrew for him. using the left over .5 qts of oil, (4.5qt fill), it'll only take 9 OCI's to get a "freebee"!
only 7 more to go!
so far, it's .5qts ea PYB &FS
 
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Originally Posted By: dave1251
I am sure this could start an heated discussion but I have been more concern how much an filter restricts flow than how much it filters. As long as filtration is comparable to most "high end" filters. I would have no problems using Fram's orange can if the price was around 2.50-3.00 dollars.


You know, this can work for many apps, some still just have preferences.

The only real backwards way would be to put a K&N filter on your intake in a dusty environment(desert storm?) and rely on that synthetic oil filter to save your engine.
crazy2.gif


^Wait, I think I almost qualify for that...until now! Got an AFE Pro Dry S on the way finally! w00t!
laugh.gif
 
Got the UOA from Blackstone Today:
1st ever UOA for me, or this car.

Code:


MI/HR on Oil 6,905

MI/HR on Unit 148,751

Sample Date 03/25/12

Make Up Oil n/a

ALUMINUM 1

CHROMIUM 0

IRON 8

COPPER 1

LEAD 0

TIN 0

MOLYBDENUM 252

NICKEL 0

MANGANESE 1

SILVER 0

TITANIUM 0

POTASSIUM 4

BORON 19

SILICON 29

SODIUM 82

CALCIUM 2595

MAGNESIUM 11

PHOSPHORUS 786

ZINC 931

BARIUM 0

Values Should Be*

SUS Viscosity @ 210°F 54.8 55-62

cSt Viscosity @ 100°C 8.70 8.8-11.1

Flashpoint in °F 400 >365

Fuel % 0.5
Antifreeze % ? 0.0

Water % 0.0 0.0

Insolubles % 0.4


Comments:
RUSSELL: Ryan's Vibe is looking pretty good in this first report, at least as far as wear metals are
concerned. Universal averages show typical wear for a 1ZZ-FE engine after ~5,500 miles of oil use, and
Ryan's wear looks good even on a longer oil run. The only issues were high levels of silicon and sodium.
Silicon might show dirt, so check the air filter, and sodium could be coolant, although it could be residual
from a different type of oil used previously. The low viscosity isn't a problem. Since wear looks good, just
monitor for now; if it's not losing coolant, try 8K miles on the next oil.

(it is loosing coolant somewhere, oil didn't look milky at all, has a K&N Drop in lifetime air filter which could explain the silicon)
 
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