Engine Flush Question

[Leo99]

Originally Posted By: Vlad_the_Russian
Just because you see a clean valvetrain does not mean that none of your oil channels/passages/drain holes are free and clean from small debris. Same applies to piston ring lands.
Do the flush and don't look back. It WILL Crack loose a couple things here and there, and over next couple OCIs 0w40 oils will finish up the cleaning of those tiny openings, thus improving your oil consumption.


Or not.

 

[ZZman]

Do the flush if you feel you need or want to. But don't waste new oil for the flush. Just add it to the current oil.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Liqui Moly's engine flush is what I'd use... if I ever did a flush.

But I don't.

Instead, simply do a few short OCI's to clean it out

 

[benjy]

synthetics even typical group III's should keep things clean, diesel oils having more additives are said to be better yet + IMO the top of the oil chain is Ester based oils said to be the best cleaners as well as lasting longer + protecting better think RedLine!!! the real deal

 

[Donald]

Forget the flush.

 

[BrocLuno]

Every time I have an engine consuming oil, I do a few things. And since I buy cars and trucks with at least 100,000 miles (except my last one only had 83K), they often show up with some oil consumption issues...

It's usually related to rings stuck in the grooves. They do not travel the irregularities of the cylinder taper as they should...

So I use my regular oil (usually Delo 400 15W-40LE 'cause I have tractors, but use whatever you like...) and add some Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO). In 5 qt systems and above, I might use a whole qt. In smaller systems, I run proportionally less.

I also add a full can of BG109 (now known as EPR) the last 100 miles before a change. I shorten my change interval to ~4,000 miles and use a good filter. I also use an oversized filter if easily obtainable and it will physically fit ...

In almost all cases, this reduces the oil consumption. Has been doing well at this from the 1990's since I adopted this regimen. It just worked for the "low" mileage Pick-up I got as my new daily driver. Oil was going down at qt per 600 miles. Now down to about a qt per 1,500 and I have not changed the PCV yet (on hand). I'm sure I'll get it down to 1 qt per change interval

Flushes, as described by some folks, don't do what I need. I need/want to free rings. Flushes are usually designed to wash off varnish and sludge. Sorry, just not excited about either ... Regular HDEO changes will get that stuff over time

Another technique I use is an overnight ring soak. Big shot of Break-Free gun solvent in each cylinder (plugs out). Put plugs back in. Let all sit overnight w/o turning the engine. Fire it up next morning and drive around the block. Change oil and filter.

Do the oil combo described above. Do the BG109 last 100 miles, etc.

Oil consumption will drop significantly in about three changes

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Every time I have an engine consuming oil, I do a few things. And since I buy cars and trucks with at least 100,000 miles (except my last one only had 83K), they often show up with some oil consumption issues...

It's usually related to rings stuck in the grooves. They do not travel the irregularities of the cylinder taper as they should...

So I use my regular oil (usually Delo 400 15W-40LE 'cause I have tractors, but use whatever you like...) and add some Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO). In 5 qt systems and above, I might use a whole qt. In smaller systems, I run proportionally less.

I also add a full can of BG109 (now known as EPR) the last 100 miles before a change. I shorten my change interval to ~4,000 miles and use a good filter. I also use an oversized filter if easily obtainable and it will physically fit ...

In almost all cases, this reduces the oil consumption. Has been doing well at this from the 1990's since I adopted this regimen. It just worked for the "low" mileage Pick-up I got as my new daily driver. Oil was going down at qt per 600 miles. Now down to about a qt per 1,500 and I have not changed the PCV yet (on hand). I'm sure I'll get it down to 1 qt per change interval

Flushes, as described by some folks, don't do what I need. I need/want to free rings. Flushes are usually designed to wash off varnish and sludge. Sorry, just not excited about either ... Regular HDEO changes will get that stuff over time

Another technique I use is an overnight ring soak. Big shot of Break-Free gun solvent in each cylinder (plugs out). Put plugs back in. Let all sit overnight w/o turning the engine. Fire it up next morning and drive around the block. Change oil and filter.

Do the oil combo described above. Do the BG109 last 100 miles, etc.

Oil consumption will drop significantly in about three changes