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Can any of the resident engine builders recommend an assembly lube for doing a top end refresh (cams, cam followers, lash adjusters) on a 3.6L Pentastar?
Engine Assembly Lube
- Thread starter explorer2030
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I notice that Mahle sells a product called Cam Guard in addition to Bearing Guard. Would I need to use the Bearing Guard on the cam journals, and the Cam Guard on the lobes, valve stems, rollers, and lash adjuster faces? Would I get the same protection if I used one product on everything?
This is what I used when I replaced my head gasket on my Dodge 2.0 Tigershark engine. I used this on the cam journals, lobes, and timing chain surfaces.
Why not ask the cam manufacturer what they recommend?
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They are OEM parts and didn't come with any specific installation or break-in procedure. The section in the service manual for cam installation just states to lube everything with regular 5W20 engine oil, but that doesn't appear to be a best practice for brand new parts based on the engine building publications I have seen because regular oil won't stick to the parts as well or provide the lubrication properties of an assembly lube even when sitting for as little as a couple days. I would like to use whatever product is going to give me the best shot at a successful break-in, and have a higher margin for error.
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On a serious note, there are all sorts of products available. What they do is remain in place for a long period of time. Maybe years, while (for example) you finish assembling your AC Cobra replica. If you are going to repair and start the engine right away, use motor oil. It is very, very unlikely you need anything else.
Using grease or some magic lube is not necessary on most modern engines and the clay or lithium binders of grease don't belong in an engine. If you must, use something a bit more viscous than 0W-20. Maybe a 5W-30?
Just a quick note about pre-oiling a recently overhauled/or replacement engine after installation. Get a $7 plastic pump for gear oil, use a vinyl hose (and zip ties) and pump a quart of oil into the oil pressure sending port. This will fill the oil passageways and result in near instant oil pressure on startup. Protecting your main and rod bearings.
Using grease or some magic lube is not necessary on most modern engines and the clay or lithium binders of grease don't belong in an engine. If you must, use something a bit more viscous than 0W-20. Maybe a 5W-30?
Just a quick note about pre-oiling a recently overhauled/or replacement engine after installation. Get a $7 plastic pump for gear oil, use a vinyl hose (and zip ties) and pump a quart of oil into the oil pressure sending port. This will fill the oil passageways and result in near instant oil pressure on startup. Protecting your main and rod bearings.
Is your concern over wiping a cam? Isn't that more common on push rod engines without roller lifters? Would cranking the engine until oil pressure builds up help?
Use Lubriplate 105 and change the oil after 20 min.
www.lubriplate.com
No. 105 | Lubriplate Lubricants Co.
www.lubriplate.com
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My concern is ensuring that there is adequate lubrication during initial startup to avoid premature wear because I am not going to be able to run the engine for a couple days after installation. The simple test in the video below shows that the cam lobes lubricated with engine oil were basically dry after 6 days. While engine oil is probably adequate lubrication for an immediate break-in, seeing this doesn't give me much confidence that using it will offer the best protection for my $1600 in parts. My plan for break-in was to prime the oil system by cranking in flood mode to register oil pressure on my scan tool before starting the engine, and then follow the commonly recommended procedure of running the engine at 1500-2000 rpm for 20 minutes. I am also trying to determine if I should fill the sump with a break-in oil instead of regular motor oil for best results.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=aU-3mJq7DR0 (See 25:37)
www.youtube.com/watch?v=aU-3mJq7DR0 (See 25:37)
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@explorer2030 I have used various cam lubes over the years on race car motors so I understand your concern from that point but I think you might be overthinking this one. I think engine oil will be fine. It’s a roller cam and rockers with very low lift pressure compared to engines normally assembled with cam lube.
Do what makes you sleep at night but I’ve let our 3.6L sit for several days or even 2 weeks while we were out of town camping. I don’t see how that is much different.
Just my $0.02
Do what makes you sleep at night but I’ve let our 3.6L sit for several days or even 2 weeks while we were out of town camping. I don’t see how that is much different.
Just my $0.02
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The way I see it is there is more risk when the parts are new and have not worn into each other as opposed to starting an engine that sat for a couple weeks after the break-in. The $10 bottle of assembly lube while maybe not absolutely necessary seems like a cheap way to gain a small margin of safety. Does anyone believe the motor oil would offer as good or better protection?
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I've used Lucas oil stabilizer (the gooey stuff) and Lucas assembly lube, and sta lube assembly lube. On one engine I was helping my friend build he didn't install the oil pump drive shaft and the cam and lifters were fine because we had soaked them in assembly lube
The crank didn't survive with no oil pressure though
The crank didn't survive with no oil pressure though
Huh? Moly cam lube is cheap insurance. Pre-lube when there is a distributor driven oil pump. Not sure how the LS type engines can be pre-lubed.On a serious note, there are all sorts of products available. What they do is remain in place for a long period of time. Maybe years, while (for example) you finish assembling your AC Cobra replica. If you are going to repair and start the engine right away, use motor oil. It is very, very unlikely you need anything else.
Using grease or some magic lube is not necessary on most modern engines and the clay or lithium binders of grease don't belong in an engine. If you must, use something a bit more viscous than 0W-20. Maybe a 5W-30?
Just a quick note about pre-oiling a recently overhauled/or replacement engine after installation. Get a $7 plastic pump for gear oil, use a vinyl hose (and zip ties) and pump a quart of oil into the oil pressure sending port. This will fill the oil passageways and result in near instant oil pressure on startup. Protecting your main and rod bearings.
Another vote for Lubriplate No. 105
