Drilled/Slotted Rotors with which pads

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: TinyVoices
Rotors don't warp. That is a misnomer. What happens is that pad material is unevenly deposited around the rotor and creates non uniform run out.

To prevent this you need to properly bed the pads into the new rotors and not sit with the brakes engaged firmly after hard stops.


My brake lathe says the guy who wrote that article is full of it.

 

[i_hate_autofraud]

Yeah, Don't, I did and never again, plus pay 3-4X more for them.

I get extreme brake pulsations and noise under hard braking at hiway speeds after they
were 2 years old. almost scary. The rotors are sold by the name "Extreme Stop". They insist
you buy their pads, wear is fast and lots of dust, new second set of pads are mid range Raybestos, less dust.

So I took them off and found the many cross holes plugged solid and some of the slots loaded
with hard crud. So brake action as it turns is not uniform.

Then I used a drill press to drill out the holes a little bigger, added a slight countersink
with a different cutter then used a q-tip to put a little hi temp paint inside the holes to
slow rust and plugging, then I ground out the crud in the slots so they're all even. Both
sides of rotors needed doing on both front rotors.

Brakes were great again - for 18 months! Darn!

Also generated way more brake dust then even
OEM pads and rotors!

I'll have to do it all over again this spring - gonna squeeze every dollar out before I junk them!
And I'll troll the manufacturer, they had to know this would happen. I only ever had brake pulsation
on a plain rotor when the pads were down to metal, so this is a huge disappointment.

 

[4WD]

These are PowerStop brand?

 

[gofast182]

Don't waste money on drilled or slotted rotors. As someone who tracks their car and hangs around a bunch of others who do, you will find few, if any, drilled or slotted rotors at a track day where rotors are used harder than you ever will on the street (if someone does have them they are they're usually on a beginner's car).

First, you want as much friction surface as possible available to the pads; holes/slots are taking that away, counter-intuitive. Second, holes/slots can create weak points where the rotor is more likely to fail. Third, these features allegedly help with cooling and pad condition, however: if it's cooling you need, bring more air to the current rotor; if it's pad condition you're worried about there are some good practices mentioned above to keep them in good shape.

What I can tell you is that I have seen a noticeable increase in durability from [solid] cryogenically treated rotors on the track car. I'd suggest Centric Premium and from there you can decide on cryo. or not as they typically have that as an option.

Edit: as for pads, I use Akebono ProACT Ceramics on the MDX, it's a heavy vehicle yet they stop well and have proven durable.

 

[DriveHard]

I have the Powerstop drilled and slotted rotors paired with Wagner OEx pads on my Silverado. I got them for the occasional time I tow my large boat and have experienced brake fade in fast stops from highway speeds. With the new pads and rotors, this was greatly improved. I have not noticed any additional dust, or any other negatives in the two years I have had them (daily driver). I do notice when they are dusty (which is every day as I live on gravel) they have a slight squeek just as I come to a complete stop. Otherwise, no complaints with this combo in this vehicle.

 

[Silverado12]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: TinyVoices
Rotors don't warp. That is a misnomer. What happens is that pad material is unevenly deposited around the rotor and creates non uniform run out.

To prevent this you need to properly bed the pads into the new rotors and not sit with the brakes engaged firmly after hard stops.


My brake lathe says the guy who wrote that article is full of it.


Yeah, another internet mechanic article. Probably written by some kid just out of school.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Best rotors to get:
EBC Premium (plain) rotors
Wagner E-coated rotors
Centric Premium
DuraGo E-coated

Best pads to get:
Akebono ProACT
Advics
Wagner OEX

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: 4WD
High carbon should be coated, right?


They are generally a higher end rotor and come coated. The lower rotor wear and noise reduction with them is significant.

 

[Traction]

If the OE brakes work great, and go the distance, that's what I use. On my 01 Camry the brakes were perfect up to 100kmi, so that's what used for replacement. On my 07 Camry hybrid the pads were only half worn at 180,000 miles.

 

[555]

If it's easy, put the new rotors on a brake lathe, you may be surprised.

 

[Garak]

StevieC: Check out the official vendor of EBC brakes in Canada. They have "regular" rotors in addition to all their high performance offerings, and you may be surprised by the price. Their stuff (even the higher end stuff) wasn't far off from the high end Raybestos stuff I got at a jobber rate.

 

[SilverFusion2010]

I'm thinking about going to a euro style setup, so that would be high carbon rotors and quality semi-metallics.

Brand recommendations?

 

[mattwithcats]

Look at the second half of the EBC catalog, they list sets of pads and rotors, or drums and shoes...

I got a front set for $75, Ultimax Black , with solid rotors...

https://ebcbrakes.com/Assets/ecatalogues/2016_USA_Automotive_Catalogue/mobile/index.html#p=530

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted By: Garak
StevieC: Check out the official vendor of EBC brakes in Canada. They have "regular" rotors in addition to all their high performance offerings, and you may be surprised by the price. Their stuff (even the higher end stuff) wasn't far off from the high end Raybestos stuff I got at a jobber rate.

 

[4WD]

Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
I'm thinking about going to a euro style setup, so that would be high carbon rotors and quality semi-metallics.

Brand recommendations?


Well, I had put these on my Cruze … but after what I learned in this thread they are coming off ASAP: