Does w30 provide more longevity over w20??

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Originally Posted By: Bster13
Throttle position changed.
wink.gif


Originally Posted By: jstutz
Originally Posted By: shrooms
I tried 5W30 and the mileage DROPPED to 30-32mpg. Went back to 5W20 and it's back to 40-42mpg.

These engines are very sensitive.


Something else changed. No way going to a w30 over w20 gave you >25% fuel mileage. Were you actually eating shrooms when you did this math. Just kidding but i think something else was involved there.


Nope, I'm light footed in fact. Original owner, car never been abused.

Here's a constant observation. When I fill up, I reset the trip odo every time. I make a round trip visit of 225-230 miles. When I'm done, the gas needle is BARELY passed lower from F. When it was on 30wt, it went a QUARTER down from F. Went back to 20wt and the mileage came back. Same driving habits, same tire pressure, etc. Whatever it is, I can't explain it. Just telling my experience.
 
Wasnt there a article that showed the true differnce in fuel economy difference of w20 vs w30 was something like 0.8% difference? based on two of the same branded oils. Also wasnt there some engines out there that needed the w20 for their valve train?
 
Originally Posted By: shrooms

Here's a constant observation. When I fill up, I reset the trip odo every time. I make a round trip visit of 225-230 miles. When I'm done, the gas needle is BARELY passed lower from F. When it was on 30wt, it went a QUARTER down from F. Went back to 20wt and the mileage came back. Same driving habits, same tire pressure, etc. Whatever it is, I can't explain it. Just telling my experience.


It would be a lot more reliable to measure the fuel consumption over several full tanks. Tank re-fill volumes can vary quite a bit depending on the characteristics of the pump and how it cuts-off.
 
It's interesting to note that even when they have exact same engine, cars that have xW20 specifications in the US often have either a xW30 of even an xW40 oil recommended in Australia.

I just entered 2006-2010 Honda Civic into the "Lube Selector Guides" on the Australian websites of a few of the big oil companies (Shell Castrol Valvoline etc) and they all came back with xW30's and xW40's.

Almost nobody uses xW20 in Australia. I can understand using it in really cold climates but honestly I wouldn't even use oil that thin on my sewing machine (um if I had one
blush.gif
).
 
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Originally Posted By: uart
It's interesting to note that even when they have exact same engine, cars that have xW20 specifications in the US often have either a xW30 of even an xW40 oil recommended in Australia.

I just entered 2006-2010 Honda Civic into the "Lube Selector Guides" on the Australian websites of a few of the big oil companies (Shell Castrol Valvoline etc) and they all came back with xW30's and xW40's.

Almost nobody uses xW20 in Australia. I can understand using it in really cold climates but honestly I wouldn't even use oil that thin on my sewing machine (um if I had one
blush.gif
).


Since the operating temp. weight has little to do with ambient temperature outside, this assumption is meaningless. I guess 30 and 40 are just perrrrrrrfect weights and nothing will (should) ever change to where something just may be better than them, right? old-schooler.......
 
Originally Posted By: tpattgeek
Originally Posted By: uart
It's interesting to note that even when they have exact same engine, cars that have xW20 specifications in the US often have either a xW30 of even an xW40 oil recommended in Australia.

I just entered 2006-2010 Honda Civic into the "Lube Selector Guides" on the Australian websites of a few of the big oil companies (Shell Castrol Valvoline etc) and they all came back with xW30's and xW40's.

Almost nobody uses xW20 in Australia. I can understand using it in really cold climates but honestly I wouldn't even use oil that thin on my sewing machine (um if I had one
blush.gif
).


Since the operating temp. weight has little to do with ambient temperature outside, this assumption is meaningless. I guess 30 and 40 are just perrrrrrrfect weights and nothing will (should) ever change to where something just may be better than them, right? old-schooler.......


I'm just reporting on what is recommended here in Australia. I don't know any manufacturers that are recommending xw20 here. Cars with same engines that specify for xw20 in the US are often specified for xw30 or even xw40 here in Australia. That's just a fact I'm reporting, so none of your sarcastic insults will change that fact ok.
 
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Originally Posted By: tpattgeek
Long story short, my Civic says to use 5w-20 in the manual and has no mention of ANYTHING else.


So does my 2006 Honduh Accord V6; It says 5w-20 on the cap and no mention of 0w-anything, hence why I use 5w-20 year around. Ohh that and I use MC which gives me more power year around! Funny how that equation never changes- the power man is all I want out of this 244 horsepower Honda V6. That and decent gas mileage and 4 door space!!

Originally Posted By: tpattgeek


I want my engine to last forever dammit!

You got a Honda, you engine will last forever anyway. It's everything else you gotta worry about like power steering, batteries, brakes-rotors and don't forget other drivers (both parked and moving) that you have to worry MORE about then your engine. It's like those 'just add water' commercials and ads but change it to 'just add oil' for a Honduh.
 
^It makes sense. If the 5w-20 required for the civic in the USA is CAFE influences, yet that same Civic elsewhere is asking for 5w30 i don't see a big deal.

Both oils will be perfectly fine, IMO.
 
Originally Posted By: uart
Originally Posted By: tpattgeek
Originally Posted By: uart
It's interesting to note that even when they have exact same engine, cars that have xW20 specifications in the US often have either a xW30 of even an xW40 oil recommended in Australia.

I just entered 2006-2010 Honda Civic into the "Lube Selector Guides" on the Australian websites of a few of the big oil companies (Shell Castrol Valvoline etc) and they all came back with xW30's and xW40's.

Almost nobody uses xW20 in Australia. I can understand using it in really cold climates but honestly I wouldn't even use oil that thin on my sewing machine (um if I had one
blush.gif
).


Since the operating temp. weight has little to do with ambient temperature outside, this assumption is meaningless. I guess 30 and 40 are just perrrrrrrfect weights and nothing will (should) ever change to where something just may be better than them, right? old-schooler.......


I'm just reporting on what is recommended here in Australia. I don't know any manufacturers that are recommending xw20 here. Cars with same engines that specify for xw20 in the US are often specified for xw30 or even xw40 here in Australia. That's just a fact I'm reporting, so none of your sarcastic insults will change that fact ok.


I wasn't insulting you because it's not available in your country. I'd actually like to know why you can't find xw-20 oil in Australia. I was just bringing to everyone's attention that there is absolutely NOTHING wrong with a 20 weight oil if your vehicle calls for it, no matter where you live. Why would you say you will never use it in any application? Because it's not available there? What do you base your decision on? Just don't judge something you haven't used and/or know nothing about.
 
IMHO here in NA: xw20 is equivalent to xw30 in yesteryear so no need to fuzz over the "viscosity drops" or "thinning of 20wt oil for we all know that here in NA, our xw20wt oils are "blended" with GpII+ or sometimes GpIII or better oils, with attention paid towards the viscosity drops/thinning as VII improvers run out/fuel dilution, etc.

As a result: xw20wt motor oils sold in NA are just as durable as xw30wt oils in yesteryears.

Many vehicles have been running on xw20 since the late 90s/early 2Ks and still in operation up and until this day.

Also: just because other parts of the world still running on xW40/xw50 doesn't necessary means that we (using xw30/xw20) are wrong. Afterall: this stems from the govt policies and importer's choice more than anything else.

Also: our oil suppliers here can provide xw30/xw20 at an extremely competitive pricing to avg motoring joes here in NA (because most of the private automobiles here are gasoline engined) due to economies of scale, as opposed to those outside of NA which have a more significant share of diesels than gasolines (diesels typically runs higher viscosity mono/multigrades than gasoline counterparts) and many other countries who don't have environmental/emissions/CAFE mandates choose not to provide better, if not more efficient means of motor oil grades to general public. Importers of lubricant typically choose to import those (lubricant grades) that sells best, not necessary in-favour to those based on other countries requirements.

My 2c's worth.

Q.
 
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Originally Posted By: uart
Originally Posted By: shrooms

Here's a constant observation. When I fill up, I reset the trip odo every time. I make a round trip visit of 225-230 miles. When I'm done, the gas needle is BARELY passed lower from F. When it was on 30wt, it went a QUARTER down from F. Went back to 20wt and the mileage came back. Same driving habits, same tire pressure, etc. Whatever it is, I can't explain it. Just telling my experience.


It would be a lot more reliable to measure the fuel consumption over several full tanks. Tank re-fill volumes can vary quite a bit depending on the characteristics of the pump and how it cuts-off.


I've been doing this for years. I always fill up around 11 gls. If there's any volume fluctuation, they're very small. I always ask for the receipt and sure enough 11 gls. A tad more or less, but NEVER gallons.
 
Originally Posted By: Artem
No the W actually stands for Winter... what the oils viscosity is at - whatever the temp is during testing.


Quote:


http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=77

Many think that the “W” in 10w30 means “winter”.
From SAE J300 p.2:
"Two series of viscosity grades are defined in Table (1): (a) those containing the letter W and (b) those without. Single viscosity grade oils with the letter W are defined by maximum low temperature cranking and pumping viscosities and a minimum kinematic viscosity at 100C. Single grade oils without the letter W are based on a set of minimum and maximum kinematic viscosities at 100C and a minimum high shear rate viscosity at 150C. The shear rate will depend on the test method. Multi-grade grade oils are defined by both of these criteria....
The W is just a designation of one type of testing vs another.
 
Originally Posted By: tinmanSC
Originally Posted By: tpattgeek
Yeah, I was still speechless from seeing someone thinking that and being so sure of themselves.

er... what? The W doesn't stand for winter in a format like 10w30? Not sure what direction you're pointing to with that post, weebl.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/7569/


I've never really looked into it, but it looks like the majority do say it means winter, even wikipedia:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil#Single-grade

I stand corrected, but I would also like to know why people say, "Some people think it means winter". Does it or does it not?
 
Originally Posted By: tpattgeek
Originally Posted By: tinmanSC
Originally Posted By: tpattgeek
Yeah, I was still speechless from seeing someone thinking that and being so sure of themselves.

er... what? The W doesn't stand for winter in a format like 10w30? Not sure what direction you're pointing to with that post, weebl.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/7569/


I've never really looked into it, but it looks like the majority do say it means winter, even wikipedia:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil#Single-grade

I stand corrected, but I would also like to know why people say, "Some people think it means winter". Does it or does it not?


Yes, it does mean Winter.

http://www.valvoline.com/car-care/motor-oil-myths/
Myth: The "W" stands for "weight."
Reality: It actually stands for winter.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
"as thin as possible, as thick as necessary"

Try to follow this rule.

Basically, Xw-20 will provide sufficient protection for your Civic and will easily get you to 300k miles. Higher grades will just rob you of performance and fuel economy.


Post proof
That is so much malarkey

Thin oil can lead to cylinder wear, especially if you have any fuel dilution
 
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Originally Posted By: badnews
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
"as thin as possible, as thick as necessary"

Try to follow this rule.

Basically, Xw-20 will provide sufficient protection for your Civic and will easily get you to 300k miles. Higher grades will just rob you of performance and fuel economy.


Post proof
That is so much malarkey

Thin oil can lead to cylinder wear, especially if you have any fuel dilution


If that were the case, I'd say a thicker oil is "necessary", right? Or are you talking about the 0w? In my case, the car calls for 5w-20. Honda now recommends putting a 0w-20 in 5w-20 Civics from the 2001 model on up. Obviously, 0w-20 meets the 5w-20 specs and warranty requirements.

On the flip side, I would say it's not POSSIBLE to go to a 0w in a vehicle that's 10-20 years old that calls for a 10w, or go to xw-40 or higher if it calls for xw-20 unless the vehicle is consuming/burning. That would make it necessary. Makes sense to me...
 
Originally Posted By: tpattgeek
If that were the case, I'd say a thicker oil is "necessary", right? Or are you talking about the 0w? In my case, the car calls for 5w-20. Honda now recommends putting a 0w-20 in 5w-20 Civics from the 2001 model on up. Obviously, 0w-20 meets the 5w-20 specs and warranty requirements.

On the flip side, I would say it's not POSSIBLE to go to a 0w in a vehicle that's 10-20 years old that calls for a 10w, or go to xw-40 or higher if it calls for xw-20 unless the vehicle is consuming/burning. That would make it necessary. Makes sense to me...


http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=82
36.gif
 
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