Does a FULL SAPS oil create more soot in EGR and intake manifold?

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I own a 2006 BMW M47 (diesel 2.000 cc 164 HP)

I've always used Castrol Edge 5w30 M on it, which is a MID-SAPS type of oil; but I'm planning on going for a FULL-SAPS in order to protect the engine, since the car has racked more than 200.000 kilometers and I want to extreme precautions relating to engine wear.

Important thing: the car doesnt have DPF

BUT I'm kinda worried about the EGR and the intake manifold accumulating more soot with this oil change. Am I correct with my worries?

I just wanna know ur opinion about it, since I know nothing about how diesel engines work


Here a pic of my whip

Whats-App-Image-2022-07-06-at-2-13-42-PM.jpg
 
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Nice ride! Do you know what was originally spec'd for your engine? Diesel's are nasty anyway you slice it. I would think that full saps could cause more but how much more measurable it would be... I wouldn't know. If your engine was designed with using Full SAPS then you should be able to run it & get long service out of it.
 
on a diesel engine, soot in the EGR is from the byproducts of combustion that go into the exhaust, portions of which are recirculated into the intake system as a medium to reduce combustion temperatures, to reduce NOx emissions..
Little of those combustion byproducts in the EGR system come from lubricating oil.

Unless the 06 BMW diesel has a DPF in the exhaust system you probably have no worries about the oil you use.
If it does have a DPF basically you need a spec oil which is low on ash.
other than that I can't think of any intake or EGR problems with soot that would come from a change in oil brands or type..
 
on a diesel engine, soot in the EGR is from the byproducts of combustion that go into the exhaust, portions of which are recirculated into the intake system as a medium to reduce combustion temperatures, to reduce NOx emissions..
Little of those combustion byproducts in the EGR system come from lubricating oil.

Unless the 06 BMW diesel has a DPF in the exhaust system you probably have no worries about the oil you use.
If it does have a DPF basically you need a spec oil which is low on ash.
other than that I can't think of any intake or EGR problems with soot that would come from a change in oil brands or type..
I FORGOT TO MENTION THAT MY CAR DOESN'T EQUIP ANY DPF DEVICE

I take ur words, so I'm gonna swap to FULL-SAPS oil in my next oil change
 
Nice ride! Do you know what was originally spec'd for your engine? Diesel's are nasty anyway you slice it. I would think that full saps could cause more but how much more measurable it would be... I wouldn't know. If your engine was designed with using Full SAPS then you should be able to run it & get long service out of it
the engine requires mid-saps oil , but subsidiary it also admits full-saps type of oils. all of this according to the owner's manual.

so yeah, I think im gonna go for a change, since I wanna keep the car for ever
 
the engine requires mid-saps oil , but subsidiary it also admits full-saps type of oils. all of this according to the owner's manual.

so yeah, I think im gonna go for a change, since I wanna keep the car for ever
Thanks, Sounds like you settled on full saps. Enjoy the BMW.
 
on a diesel engine, soot in the EGR is from the byproducts of combustion that go into the exhaust, portions of which are recirculated into the intake system as a medium to reduce combustion temperatures, to reduce NOx emissions..
Little of those combustion byproducts in the EGR system come from lubricating oil.

…apart from the crankcase PCV system which consists of engine oil mist.
 
…apart from the crankcase PCV system which consists of engine oil mist.
those crankcase gases are fed into the intake system and go thru the combustion process,
so they end up being a byproduct of combustion that is used in exhaust gas recirculation.
 
those crankcase gases goes into the intake system and thru the combustion process, along with everything else that goes into the exhaust and might be a component that is used in exhaust gas recirculation.
The oil mist is a big part of the reason the inlet tract gets caked with deposits and clogged up. EGR on its own doesn’t cause many issues. PCV on its own is fine. It’s the two together which causes a black sticky mess.
 
I FORGOT TO MENTION THAT MY CAR DOESN'T EQUIP ANY DPF DEVICE

I take ur words, so I'm gonna swap to FULL-SAPS oil in my next oil change

The ash is coloured light grey to white, unlike soot that's coloured black at all times. Have you ever found significant amounts of ash in an EGR system?
 
The oil mist is a big part of the reason the inlet tract gets caked with deposits and clogged up. EGR on its own doesn’t cause many issues. PCV on its own is fine. It’s the two together which causes a black sticky mess.
Yes but that's a different problem not related to the SAPS level. It's also not really proven that the SAPS level is directly influencing IVD either but at least it's a bit closer.
 
any of you guys in the know realize that once the engine manufacturers started using an SCR system also know EGR flow was reduced..
the bigger problems occur on vehicles with EGR only for Nox emission control
 
First EGR valve I've ever come across so can't compare sizes to others :LOL:. The EGR cooler was replaced 30,689 miles ago.
is that from the 07 F350 in your sig or something else? I'm surprised you haven't just gotten rid of the EGR system.
 
is that from the 07 F350 in your sig or something else? I'm surprised you haven't just gotten rid of the EGR system.
Yes, That work was done just before I bought it. There are no more aftermarket companies willing to shut off the EGR valve error codes anymore so that is not an option. I'll just keep maintaining it. That's really the only thing I've done on emissions to this truck in the 30k miles I've owned it was simply cleaning the valve & new o-ring gaskets one time so far. But IMO going 40k on this egr valve is too long. I think I'll clean it every 25k & go from there.
 
Yes, That work was done just before I bought it. There are no more aftermarket companies willing to shut off the EGR valve error codes anymore so that is not an option. I'll just keep maintaining it. That's really the only thing I've done on emissions to this truck in the 30k miles I've owned it was simply cleaning the valve & new o-ring gaskets one time so far. But IMO going 40k on this egr valve is too long. I think I'll clean it every 25k & go from there.

EGR valve should be spring closed , electrically opened.. so you can probably unplug it when you get tired of messing with it,if it ever messes up assuming you can ignore the check engine light.. funny but they are still selling the stuff online ... https://dfcdiesel.com/products/6-0-powerstroke-egr-delete-kit/
 
EGR valve should be spring closed , electrically opened.. so you can probably unplug it when you get tired of messing with it,if it ever messes up assuming you can ignore the check engine light.. funny but they are still selling the stuff online ... https://dfcdiesel.com/products/6-0-powerstroke-egr-delete-kit/
I read a story recently that because someone did exactly as you suggested their check engine light stayed illuminated & ended up costing them an engine because the light didn't come on for the real problems. The light was always on & didn't alert them of a serious mechanical issue of some sort. I don't remember the whole story but it's enough for me to always keep the check engine lights off & get things repaired soon when it does pop on.
 
I read a story recently that because someone did exactly as you suggested their check engine light stayed illuminated & ended up costing them an engine because the light didn't come on for the real problems. The light was always on & didn't alert them of a serious mechanical issue of some sort. I don't remember the whole story but it's enough for me to always keep the check engine lights off & get things repaired soon when it does pop on.
honestly, the only thing a check engine light actually is letting a person know is that there is a problem in the electrical circuits in the engine management system.. those older electronic engines aren't so tamper resistant like the new er stuff... I'm sure you have already heard about 6 point Oh issues as they are notorious.. if it is runningpoorly you would know it.... I think the known problems are head gaskets, oil cooler and EGR problems... once inawhile the FICM as they call it( fuel injection control module) You have the last year of that engine, your's might have most of the bugs worked out of it from the factory or the previous owner paid for the upgrades.. the upgrades make those engines quite reliable, the upgrades being head gaskets and studs, oil cooler replacement and EGR stuff... they run good... we had one at my job, I always liked the way it ran, and the engine ended up being replaced once by Ford under warranty.
 
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