disappointed with 2019 GM 5.3L truck; problems

Everything is junk. Ran a 2018 Tahoe for a while at work. Eventually it just ate the transmission at 200,000km. My heart can't handle a rant about F150's at the moment.
 
I build a lot of 6L80/90 units....I could name off many procedures/diagnostic tests but It's not your problem so I'm not making it mine.

Just about every component in this unit can be bench tested, The question is do you have the equipment & know how to use it?
I'd like to hear more, I can do vac tests and crack leak tests, operating pressure tests etc etc. any special other tests?
Do you use new or recut pump parts? It will be a world of hurt when the bellhousings are no longer available.
Would you say that was not a very good idea of GM?
And what is the main reason for the TC trashing it self?
 
I’m wondering if running it in 4x4 instead of Auto 4x4 puts more stress on the transfer case? Even in winter conditions the roads can have dry patches and the Auto mode should be better to avoid wind up.

I drove many Chev 1500 5.3 company trucks from about 15 years ago and I was amazed at how many km they would go with no major issues. We had an older one 2006ish that had over 400,000 km on the original engine, transmission and t-case.

The Auto 4x4 worked seamlessly on snow and ice in those trucks, significantly better than my 2014 F150. I used the Auto 4x4 frequently.
 
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I'd like to hear more, I can do vac tests and crack leak tests, operating pressure tests etc etc. any special other tests?
Do you use new or recut pump parts? It will be a world of hurt when the bellhousings are no longer available.
Would you say that was not a very good idea of GM?
And what is the main reason for the TC trashing it self?

TEHCM test plate, Bench harness & capable scan tool to bench performance test the solenoids & TCM.

Watch the clutch clearances, Using aftermarket frictions & steels is a ****show.

I'm having to cut pump covers/stators now, Having a lathe helps control the quality & runout of the cut, You're not wrong about the bellhousing.

Casting the pump body & bellhousing together streamlined manufacturing.

The TC clutch issue is a result of many blunders stacked on top of each other, The fix......
*Twin disc billet front cover JMBX converter
*Sonnax Zip kit
*Disable lock-up in 1st-3rd gear.
*Set target TCC slip to Zero RPM in 4th, 5th, & 6TH.

The last 2 requires tuning software.
 
Then you have a nice size lathe? You must have made a fixture plate to locate the bellhousing for those cuts?
Is the TCC similar to the 4L60E just one bonded friction? Those billet covers look nice have not priced them but guessing $$.
Not just the 6L80 /90 s do you think tuning other transmission in a similar fashion would be a big help for making the TCC's last longer?
Goofy question time, during TCC release how much clearance would you guess is between the friction material and cover on a 4L60E TC?
I have one of those opened up, and thinking there needs to be a bit of constant flow to keep it in release.
Sounds like you do a great job on them.
 
Then you have a nice size lathe? You must have made a fixture plate to locate the bellhousing for those cuts?
Is the TCC similar to the 4L60E just one bonded friction? Those billet covers look nice have not priced them but guessing $$.
Not just the 6L80 /90 s do you think tuning other transmission in a similar fashion would be a big help for making the TCC's last longer?
Goofy question time, during TCC release how much clearance would you guess is between the friction material and cover on a 4L60E TC?
I have one of those opened up, and thinking there needs to be a bit of constant flow to keep it in release.
Sounds like you do a great job on them.

I buy new Bellhousing/Pump Bodies.....I surface the Pump Cover/Stator.

My converter guy charges me $375 for a Billet front JMBX converter, I get a discount as I buy quite a few.

The stock TCC friction is single woven carbon friction strip just like the TMBX 4L60E.

All GM lock-up converters require pressure to keep the TCC disengaged....This is why low Line or Converter charge pressure can cause the TCC to drag.

Don't have much experience outside of tuning GM units.
 
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I was and probably still am a lockup converter know nothing, reason why I got one that was NG from a converter shop.
The piston design is why I needed a good look at one. As there is no seal to the cover after that piston pops the friction material off its apply surface. All the release fluid then will dump into the rest of the converter, so I'm guessing there is very little clearance during release conditions? I haven not done the study yet, lazy me. About what is the measured difference of converter charge and release pressures?

You must have a transmission shop? Thank you for the good info.
 
dad got rid of his 2020 chevy truck v8 as we were having issues with spark timing and hesitation. it spent a month at the dealer 'fixing' something in the rear box thingy...
Chevy was ~5 years old and less than 40K miles
the problem persisted. coasting and hitting the gas at the wrong gear really pissed it off.
he surprised us when he traded it in for a 2025 Tundra
 
I'm no converter expert, I rely on a good converter builder here in DFW for that. I know just enough to be dangerous if left unsupervised ;)

With the TCC commanded off, Fluid is routed to the very front of the converter to push the TCC piston/friction off the front cover, The fluid that bypasses the piston becomes TCC Release Converter Charge or just plain Converter Charge.

With the TCC applied....Fluid flow in the converter reverses direction....The friction becomes the seal.


I have a shop & build quite a few transmissions, Do a lot of engine, Diag, Electrical, & A/C work as well.
 
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