Direct Injection, Fuel Dilution, & Viscosity

Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 is a relatively thin oil for 30W, with an HTHS of 3.0. It is the best choice.


Mobil 1 5-30W HTHS 3.2
Mobil 1 euro HTHS 3.5
Did you accidentally get the data for Mobil 1 AFE 0W-30, becuase ESP 0W-30 is an ACEA C3 oil which means it has to have an HTHS above 3.5 and would fall in the upper 30 range for kinematic viscosity.
 
My mom's 2017 CRV would dilute like mad. She's 85 and barely gets the engine warm by the time she done with her errands. I changed the oil often. Would actually see the level rise in between oil changes. GDI engine, no turbo.
 
Here are a few questions that need to be answered:

1. Are your vehicles are under warranty and if so how important is that warranty to you?

2. Is your vehicle equipped with an oil temperature gauge?

3. What is considered to be the standard oil change interval versus the severe service oil change interval for your vehicles?
 
Personally I would bump up to a quality 0W-30.

But if you’re a warranty worrier maybe Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 0W-20, Valvoline R&P, or Castrol Edge EP.
 
Yeah, she brought it back to the dealer 2X for the fuel dilution / rising level on dipstick. They told her it was normal, and sent her on her way. No oil temp gauge that I know of. Doesn't matter anyway, she gifted it to her grand daughter with 19k on it. Besides, it has that rubber band tranny in it anyway. She bought a Toyota Cross in 2024. I opened the hood on the Cross, and was lost. Told her I wouldn't touch it. Too complicated for me. I'm content to work on my beaters 03' / 06' Toyota's with the 2AZ-FE & 13' CRV with the K-24. Too old to be learning new tricks. The beaters are simple to work on.
 
Here are a few questions that need to be answered:

1. Are your vehicles are under warranty and if so how important is that warranty to you?

2. Is your vehicle equipped with an oil temperature gauge?

3. What is considered to be the standard oil change interval versus the severe service oil change interval for your vehicles?
I can answer the first one. Warranty isn’t tied to oil grade. People like to say that it is but it’s not, nor does the owner’s manual say that it is. Warranty is tied to damage and oil of a higher grade than recommended won’t harm the engine.
 
I think they're engineering in fuel dilution so that when the engine burns the "Acceptable" 1qt every 1000 mi these days, it will burn it a little cleaner. It's the old F1 oil-as-fuel-trick!

Sometimes one wonders if the higher SAPS level effects on aftertreatment were the only thing restraining the OEMs from setting absurd oil consumption limits, and now that SAPS levels are in the basement, it's Katie Bar the Door on oil consumption.
 
I think they're engineering in fuel dilution so that when the engine burns the "Acceptable" 1qt every 1000 mi these days, it will burn it a little cleaner. It's the old F1 oil-as-fuel-trick!

Sometimes one wonders if the higher SAPS level effects on aftertreatment were the only thing restraining the OEMs from setting absurd oil consumption limits, and now that SAPS levels are in the basement, it's Katie Bar the Door on oil consumption.
If true that is some of the worst engineering I've ever heard of. I wonder why they tried to mitigate it later?

F1 engines burned oil for extra horsepower, not cleanliness.
 
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