I wouldn't use a whole can of EOS .
Dino->Synth+Solid lifter = now what??
- Thread starter rgrove
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Seems like the flat tappet porsche owners use GM EOS (1.5 - 2 bottles) to achieve over 1500ppm of zinc for their big wet sumps. Lotsa talk discussing reaching at least 1500ppm of zinc or so for flat tappet engines with higher spring pressures.
For 5L of oil 1 bottle of GM EOS should ramp up the zinc to aprox 1500ppm even in mediocre zinc oils.
There are many higher performance engines running schubeck lifters or going with tool steel flat solid lifters and having excellent success compared to the cast lifters.
http://www.schubeckracing.com/new2/index..._position=61:53
In my old 65 VW beetle (street/strip) with over 320lbs of pressure at the nose of the cam I'm now using a tool steel lifter from Germany. I also have schubecks but for experimentation purposes I'm using tool steel. I can reuse these lifters with different cams with no worries of incompatibility.
A hotrod article pushed the use of Rotella T although I think Dello 400 has much more zinc content.
Dumping GM EOS into your current favourite oil seems to be working for alot of flat tappet owners.
http://www.dpwferreavalves.com/
these guys might have some solit tool steel lifters.
For 5L of oil 1 bottle of GM EOS should ramp up the zinc to aprox 1500ppm even in mediocre zinc oils.
There are many higher performance engines running schubeck lifters or going with tool steel flat solid lifters and having excellent success compared to the cast lifters.
http://www.schubeckracing.com/new2/index..._position=61:53
In my old 65 VW beetle (street/strip) with over 320lbs of pressure at the nose of the cam I'm now using a tool steel lifter from Germany. I also have schubecks but for experimentation purposes I'm using tool steel. I can reuse these lifters with different cams with no worries of incompatibility.
A hotrod article pushed the use of Rotella T although I think Dello 400 has much more zinc content.
Dumping GM EOS into your current favourite oil seems to be working for alot of flat tappet owners.
http://www.dpwferreavalves.com/
these guys might have some solit tool steel lifters.
It wasn't my first car, but I had a 1954 Ford Customline V-8 with the overdrive transmission, bought new in the summer of 1954. I used it until 1959, while away at college and the Army. By 1959, it had just over 140,000 miles on it, mostly highway miles coming home almost every weekend to see my girlfriend. In the Army this was a 660 mile round trip made about 40 times a year. Back then we used 20 weight oil, and this 239 cubic inch engine never in 140,000 miles used any oil or smoked. Also, the solid lifters never did get noisy or need adjusting. I was a youngster in those days, and ran this engine pretty hard. It would do around 40 in low gear; raise your foot and overdrive low would kick in and then up to 54 mph in overdrive low; then back to second gear which was good for almost 70 and then go into overdrive second, which was good for an indicated 94. Point is, engine was ran hard and was still in good shape at 140,000 miles and the flat solid tappets exhibited almost no wear.
This was the first year of Ford's overhead valve V-8, and some of the first ones came through with bad heat treatment on the push rods and became very noisy in a few thousand miles. They had cured this by the summer of 1954 when I got mine. Mine never required an adjustment in 140,000 miles. Biggest repair mine ever required was a clutch at 86,000 miles.
They look like the OEM GM lifters.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/flat_tappet_cam_tech
Here's a good read from the resident BITOG Chemist:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=721645
schubecks are nothing like an OE cheap lifter. One will wieght like a boat anchor and the other is feather light.
Hey, the Schubecks might be superior for all I know, since it's been quite some time since I built any engines with flat tappets.
However, if you read that Hot Rod article (and it's funny how many skip the part on lifter quality and hone in only on ZDDP levels), you note that the OEM lifters are regarded as of higher quality than a lot of junk that has been peddled to the unsuspecting home engine builder the last several years.
Wow! Thanks for all the replys! I got buried at work, so this is the first chance I have had to check in....
SO.... I ordered an oil analysis kit - when I do the spring oil change Ill get it checked out.
I also checked out AutoRx... my first thought is that it takes 3k miles to fully clean, but thats probably about what goes on the car per season.... seems like a long tie to get this resolved. I do drive the car to work, errands, etc, but since right now it doesnt have a top, it does see limited use.
Based on everything Ive read, and all the replies I got here, im really tempted to switch to diesel oil. Seems like it has a more robust additive package, and *may* stay on parts better if the car sits a while...
Local auto parts store has Delo and Rotella - but im not clear on what type i should be looking for - SL or SM or what? Sorry - I am really uneducated about this. Best I can tell, though, all I can find is the newer "improved" rotella, which I understand to have reduced ZDDP, etc. How can I know which one is right? And to convert from synthetic BAC to dino, should I do a quicky motor flush - like the gumout stuff (basically kerosene, IIRC?)? Or just drain the synth and add dino?
Also, I finally looked int eh BAC of the shop manual. All the time rebuilding the car, I never got to the basic maint specs in the back! Spec for operation at +30 degrees is straigth SAE 20W, with a rating of MM....
Please, guys, keep the info coming. I really need your help/expertise!
SO.... I ordered an oil analysis kit - when I do the spring oil change Ill get it checked out.
I also checked out AutoRx... my first thought is that it takes 3k miles to fully clean, but thats probably about what goes on the car per season.... seems like a long tie to get this resolved. I do drive the car to work, errands, etc, but since right now it doesnt have a top, it does see limited use.
Based on everything Ive read, and all the replies I got here, im really tempted to switch to diesel oil. Seems like it has a more robust additive package, and *may* stay on parts better if the car sits a while...
Local auto parts store has Delo and Rotella - but im not clear on what type i should be looking for - SL or SM or what? Sorry - I am really uneducated about this. Best I can tell, though, all I can find is the newer "improved" rotella, which I understand to have reduced ZDDP, etc. How can I know which one is right? And to convert from synthetic BAC to dino, should I do a quicky motor flush - like the gumout stuff (basically kerosene, IIRC?)? Or just drain the synth and add dino?
Also, I finally looked int eh BAC of the shop manual. All the time rebuilding the car, I never got to the basic maint specs in the back! Spec for operation at +30 degrees is straigth SAE 20W, with a rating of MM....
Please, guys, keep the info coming. I really need your help/expertise!
The latest rating for HDEOs is CJ-4/SM. Even though CJ-4/SM oil has slightly less ZDDP than CI-4/SL or CI-4+/SL, it is only slightly less, and it's almost double that of the typical SM/GF-4 oil. Another advantage of the CJ-4/SM over the previous versions is that it has reduced ash levels which will help prevent certain deposits from forming in the combustion chamber and piston ring area.
Just drain and add, no flush is needed.
Goes to show that even back then, extremely thick oils weren't needed. It's unfortunate that 10w30 HDEOs aren't easier to find than 15w40 HDEOs as they would probably be a better match in many cases. In any event, regularly scheduled oil and filter changes and matching the cold start viscosity will probably go a long way into insuring a long engine life more than fine tuning the operating temperature viscosity.
You, sir, are terrific for your response and insights! I really appreciate everybodys input - tremendously helpful!
THANK YOU!
THANK YOU!
Also - I found Rotella-T at the local auto parts store in SAE 30. I think that would work really well, based on OE recommendations, etc. Anybody see a problem with this?
THanks!!!!!!
THanks!!!!!!
Rotella T in 10w30 would be even better. They even have it at Menards of all places.
Why would you say 10w 30 would be better? If the car is really only used in warm weather, and the manual originally called for 20w, i thought that straight 30w would have been better? Can you please elaborate? I thought that the 30W would have been the best fit....
What are the advantages of 10w30?
THANKS!
THANKS!
Here is a little interesting article with a short discussion on the use od straight wts vs. multi-weights, albeit geared towards 2-stroke diesels. But you may find some relevance.
http://www.busride.com/Page.cfm/PageID/8607
http://www.busride.com/Page.cfm/PageID/8607
Wow. Very itneresting. If I read that correctly, then single weights are actually better for 4 strokes than multi-vis, assuming that it isnt used in a temperature range that would benefit from multi's. Did I read that right?
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