Dino safe for a one year interval?

[Linctex]

Originally Posted By: bbhero

Another part in this is whether or not your motor burns oil. If it is a burner of say a quart every 1 thousand to say 1200 miles... Keeping it a bit shorter like 5k miles would be an idea. I know that means if that were the case the oil could be "technically" being changed every 5k miles due to topping it off.


No need to change it EVER again - if adding a quart every 1500 miles.

 

[bbhero]

Disagree. 100%. Nothing wrong with that. And not trying to give you a hard time here. Just my thinking on this very specific event.

Color and smell matters at times....(key part at times not at all times obviously) Aka very short tripped car and oil that nasty jet black and smells like gasoline. Versus oil from a car that has regular long trips... And does not look like that at all... And doesn't smell like that at all... There was a huge difference. Both vehicles Nissan. Mine vs her's. That big of a noticeable difference that Ray Charles would have easily noticed.. It mattered.

In a lot of cases it doesn't matter. And I agree. But knowing the history and driving pattern was helpful in that instance.

 

[bbhero]

My dad did that Linctex. And by goodness... It worked

For 140,000 miles.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Originally Posted By: Corollaman
2012 corolla gets driven 6,000-7,000 per year. Is a dino safe for that interval or just stick with a budget synthetic oil? I've used chevron supreme in the past for six month intervals but it seemed like a waste to dump it at 3,000 mile six month intervals.


Run a name-brand synthetic and get extreme weather protection that's better than a conventional for 7K OCIs. Mobil-1, Valvoline and Pennzoil for only several dollars more than NAPA, Supertech......etc. Your vehicle is worth the several dollars more for only one OCI per year.

 

[supton]

I suspect the car won't care, and will last longer than you want it to, regardless of what you do. Even if you chose poorly, it's apt to go years.

Since it's a once/year thing I'd go to a better synthetic. Not even top tier, just a mid range.

Now if you were doing lots of short trips, sure, every six months with cheap oil. And call it a day. Heck you could still use a mid range synthetic and it'll still be cheap. Cheaper than me, I think I'm doing 47 quarts a year in oil changes, plus 9 filters.

Sometimes it's nice to get every cent of your money spent. Other times it's just too much effort to get that last cent.

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted By: Corollaman
2012 corolla gets driven 6,000-7,000 per year. Is a dino safe for that interval or just stick with a budget synthetic oil? I've used chevron supreme in the past for six month intervals but it seemed like a waste to dump it at 3,000 mile six month intervals.


Run a name-brand synthetic and get extreme weather protection that's better than a conventional for 7K OCIs. Mobil-1, Valvoline and Pennzoil for only several dollars more than NAPA, Supertech......etc. Your vehicle is worth the several dollars more for only one OCI per year.


You post this...

Then you post mix away, nothing bad will ever happen.

Could you please explain how you advise creating a (an almost certainly) sub optimal product in general, but advising a purist name brand in this one ?

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted By: Corollaman
2012 corolla gets driven 6,000-7,000 per year. Is a dino safe for that interval or just stick with a budget synthetic oil? I've used chevron supreme in the past for six month intervals but it seemed like a waste to dump it at 3,000 mile six month intervals.


Run a name-brand synthetic and get extreme weather protection that's better than a conventional for 7K OCIs. Mobil-1, Valvoline and Pennzoil for only several dollars more than NAPA, Supertech......etc. Your vehicle is worth the several dollars more for only one OCI per year.


You post this...

Then you post mix away, nothing bad will ever happen.

Could you please explain how you advise creating a (an almost certainly) sub optimal product in general, but advising a purist name brand in this one ?


Duh!
The OP here never mentioned mixing. If he had, I would have mentioned it. I never mention non-blending to those not interested in it.

 

[Hall]

Originally Posted By: rossn2
..in that WSS-M2C945-A is Ford's Synthetic Blend oil.


Yes, Ford's synthetic blend meets that spec. It probably exceeds the spec. In Canada - no idea why it matters - Ford indicates that their conventional oil also meets that spec.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: JLTD
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Pelican
Originally Posted By: JLTD
Without data your answer is maybe. Do a UOA and you will know for sure.


A UOA will cost as much as an oil change


Correct, but in this case with that data if the driving conditions remain the same there is no need for another one unless conditions change or he suspects a problem. So over time it could actually save the OP money, even if he needed a second UOA to dial things in.


Thank you, demarpaint. I would like to add that since OP is concerned, that a UOA will both give him his answer, avoid engine sludge, and give peace of mind as well. Until then, it is sheer speculation.

 

[mjoekingz28]

Shannow = modern day Pop Rivit

 

[4WD]

Originally Posted By: bbhero
Disagree. 100%. Nothing wrong with that. And not trying to give you a hard time here. Just my thinking on this very specific event.

Color and smell matters at times....(key part at times not at all times obviously) Aka very short tripped car and oil that nasty jet black and smells like gasoline. Versus oil from a car that has regular long trips... And does not look like that at all... And doesn't smell like that at all... There was a huge difference. Both vehicles Nissan. Mine vs her's. That big of a noticeable difference that Ray Charles would have easily noticed.. It mattered.

In a lot of cases it doesn't matter. And I agree. But knowing the history and driving pattern was helpful in that instance.


Mentioned my son’s Charger recently … not much over 3k, Black as coal, looked like a corn dog on the dipstick, smelled like straight gasoline … wait, did it have fuel dilution and was still very thick ? (5w20) …
Going 3k again and will try another brand of oil … it’s a M-F short tripper …

 

[mx5miata]

2012 corolla calls for 0w20. since you're going dino, you using 5w20? Mobil clean 5000 or castrol gtx will do you rite.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

In 2012, there was only 0w20 in synthetic. If that Corolla engine runs hotter than others, I would only run synthetic 0w20. In 2012 Toyota wanted synthetic in that engine for North America. That's what I'd run, regardless of specs in other countries and continents.