2012 corolla gets driven 6,000-7,000 per year. Is a dino safe for that interval or just stick with a budget synthetic oil? I've used chevron supreme in the past for six month intervals but it seemed like a waste to dump it at 3,000 mile six month intervals.
Dino safe for a one year interval?
- Thread starter Corollaman
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I run 5 months or 5k whether it’s Amsoil or Harvest King Conventional... so my opinion will be shredded apart by the long drain interval people for dumping good oil down the drain.
So I’m the wrong one to ask. I don’t go a minute or an inch past 5 months or 5k, seen too many sludgeballs come in the dealership, and even 5 quarts of Amsoil Signature Series is way cheaper than a replacement engine.
And every one of my cars are as shiny under the valve cover as they are in the paint.
So I’m the wrong one to ask. I don’t go a minute or an inch past 5 months or 5k, seen too many sludgeballs come in the dealership, and even 5 quarts of Amsoil Signature Series is way cheaper than a replacement engine.
And every one of my cars are as shiny under the valve cover as they are in the paint.
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I see no reason to think a name brand oil like Pennzoil or Mobil can't go for a year or 6K miles. You also might consider a Pennzoil blend oil for extra protection. Ed
Dino should be fine in your driving conditions
I know GM and Chrysler state a certain amount of miles or not exceed 1 yr on intervals according to their oil monitoring systems.
Without data your answer is maybe. Do a UOA and you will know for sure.
Originally Posted By: Corollaman
I know GM and Chrysler state a certain amount of miles or not exceed 1 yr on intervals according to their oil monitoring systems.
Our '14 Ford Fusion has an OLM that goes ~10k miles between oil changes and specs regular 5W-20 oil. Not synthetic, not even synthetic blend. The manual also says not to exceed 1 year either no matter the mileage. I saw a post from an owner of a similar Fusion that drove very little miles but kept an eye on the monitor. For the first 6 months, it only decreased (from 100%) minimally, then decreased a little faster for the next few months, and when it reached the 11-12th month, it moved to 0% oil life remaining.
I know GM and Chrysler state a certain amount of miles or not exceed 1 yr on intervals according to their oil monitoring systems.
Our '14 Ford Fusion has an OLM that goes ~10k miles between oil changes and specs regular 5W-20 oil. Not synthetic, not even synthetic blend. The manual also says not to exceed 1 year either no matter the mileage. I saw a post from an owner of a similar Fusion that drove very little miles but kept an eye on the monitor. For the first 6 months, it only decreased (from 100%) minimally, then decreased a little faster for the next few months, and when it reached the 11-12th month, it moved to 0% oil life remaining.
I do think 69Torino's thinking does make sense in a way. If 5k miles are mostly short hop short trips... Then keeping a run rather short makes sense. And 5 months 5k miles is an easy way/number to remember.
If your trips are longer highway runs... Then 7k to 10k miles is very possible. Given it's a naturally aspirated motor with no turbo or DI.
Another part in this is whether or not your motor burns oil. If it is a burner of say a quart every 1 thousand to say 1200 miles... Keeping it a bit shorter like 5k miles would be an idea. I know that means if that were the case the oil could be "technically" being changed every 5k miles due to topping it off. But it is just my opinion that truly changing it out every 5k miles is the best practice.
If your trips are longer highway runs... Then 7k to 10k miles is very possible. Given it's a naturally aspirated motor with no turbo or DI.
Another part in this is whether or not your motor burns oil. If it is a burner of say a quart every 1 thousand to say 1200 miles... Keeping it a bit shorter like 5k miles would be an idea. I know that means if that were the case the oil could be "technically" being changed every 5k miles due to topping it off. But it is just my opinion that truly changing it out every 5k miles is the best practice.
Originally Posted By: bbhero
I do think 69Torino's thinking does make sense in a way.
Not on BITOG in 2018. If you could not do 6k on conventional motors would be seizing everywhere. There would be no dino oul anywhere but the third world.
I do think 69Torino's thinking does make sense in a way.
Not on BITOG in 2018. If you could not do 6k on conventional motors would be seizing everywhere. There would be no dino oul anywhere but the third world.
Or how about GDI turbo boosted motors that thin oil viscosity so greatly that is it not safe to run even 5k miles??? Which there are documented cases of this happening. Good, bad or indifferent there are times where doing what works in one circumstance does not work in another.
I change the oil in my lady's friend who has a Nissan. Very short trips a lot of the time. In as little has 4k miles the oil is jet black and nasty. In my car it never has ever looked that bad. I disagree with people who say looks don't matter on a gasoline powered car or truck. It does to a degree. Obviously on a diesel it doesn't matter because it gets black very, very, very quickly. But when a gasoline powered car or truck's oil get jet black and that nasty smelling of gas... The way that oil looks and smells matters. Especially when the oil capacity is on 4.5 qts. In her Nissan a short run is a good thing. My car run for the same distance and it looks way, way better than what comes out of her Nissan. Because it does see long trips up to full operating temperature. That helps a lot.
I change the oil in my lady's friend who has a Nissan. Very short trips a lot of the time. In as little has 4k miles the oil is jet black and nasty. In my car it never has ever looked that bad. I disagree with people who say looks don't matter on a gasoline powered car or truck. It does to a degree. Obviously on a diesel it doesn't matter because it gets black very, very, very quickly. But when a gasoline powered car or truck's oil get jet black and that nasty smelling of gas... The way that oil looks and smells matters. Especially when the oil capacity is on 4.5 qts. In her Nissan a short run is a good thing. My car run for the same distance and it looks way, way better than what comes out of her Nissan. Because it does see long trips up to full operating temperature. That helps a lot.
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Originally Posted By: bbhero
Or how about GDI turbo boosted motors that thin oil viscosity so greatly that is it not safe to run even 5k miles??? Which there are documented cases of this happening. Good, bad or indifferent there are times where doing what works in one circumstance does not work in another.
I change the oil in my lady's friend who has a Nissan. Very short trips a lot of the time. In as little has 4k miles the oil is jet black and nasty. In my car it never has ever looked that bad. I disagree with people who say looks don't matter on a gasoline powered car or truck. It does to a degree. Obviously on a diesel it doesn't matter because it gets black very, very, very quickly. But when a gasoline powered car or truck's oil get jet black and that nasty smelling of gas... The way that oil looks and smells matters. Especially when the oil capacity is on 4.5 qts. In her Nissan a short run is a good thing. My car run for the same distance and it looks way, way better than what comes out of her Nissan. Because it does see long trips up to full operating temperature. That helps a lot.
Weak anecdotal argument with an extreme example.
Or how about GDI turbo boosted motors that thin oil viscosity so greatly that is it not safe to run even 5k miles??? Which there are documented cases of this happening. Good, bad or indifferent there are times where doing what works in one circumstance does not work in another.
I change the oil in my lady's friend who has a Nissan. Very short trips a lot of the time. In as little has 4k miles the oil is jet black and nasty. In my car it never has ever looked that bad. I disagree with people who say looks don't matter on a gasoline powered car or truck. It does to a degree. Obviously on a diesel it doesn't matter because it gets black very, very, very quickly. But when a gasoline powered car or truck's oil get jet black and that nasty smelling of gas... The way that oil looks and smells matters. Especially when the oil capacity is on 4.5 qts. In her Nissan a short run is a good thing. My car run for the same distance and it looks way, way better than what comes out of her Nissan. Because it does see long trips up to full operating temperature. That helps a lot.
Weak anecdotal argument with an extreme example.
I used to do that kind of OCI with whatever dino the oil change place used. Now let me tell you about the time my car melted down and left me stranded beside the road in the middle of nowhere. Not kidding.
I have been following a similar (1 year or 7500 mile) oil change schedule also using Chevron Supreme motor oil for a couple of years with apparent success. I do take some precautions such as trying to avoid putting a car away cold, by avoiding driving less than a few miles at a time, and at least monthly driving for for at least an hour continuously to evaporate any condensed moisture or fuel. I also use better quality synthetic blend oil filters, like Wix, and cut open and inspect them. The vehicle engines have continued to look clean, by inspection through the oil fill cap, and I inspect the dipstick frequently to verify oil level, and clarity. I believe that we westerners, in a relatively dry climate, may have an advantage avoiding moisture condensation problems. One other practice which makes sense to me is to schedule the yearly oil change in the late fall of the year so that the vehicles have the advantage of fresh engine oil and filters to allow best possible low temperature pumpability during winter starts. I think that Corollaman has a valid plan but he should verify the results.
Originally Posted By: AVB
What is the driving style?
No kidding; no problem with a bunch of 10-30 miles trips, not ok for a ultra short tripper.
The prius I bought two years ago from my father got 1 year, 5K OC on 10w30 dino and it is not what I would recommend for his driving regimen. Many trips < 1 mile, others only a few miles. Fill hole was varnished up (not sludged though)
What is the driving style?
No kidding; no problem with a bunch of 10-30 miles trips, not ok for a ultra short tripper.
The prius I bought two years ago from my father got 1 year, 5K OC on 10w30 dino and it is not what I would recommend for his driving regimen. Many trips < 1 mile, others only a few miles. Fill hole was varnished up (not sludged though)
I have left Chevron Supreme in V8 trucks for up to 5 years for seldom driven vehicles. Oil does not age, per se. If it is contaminated, it can have chemical reactions, but just oil laying in the sump does not age. Especially in any vehicle made after about 1975. They are essentially sealed systems. W/o positive crankcase pressure, the system will not vent (that's what PCV valves are all about).
Supreme can handle 6,000 mile change intervals just fine. It is one of the best made conventional oils out there
Supreme can handle 6,000 mile change intervals just fine. It is one of the best made conventional oils out there
Dino oil in 2018? Would never run dino oil in a toyota with vvti
No it's not weak....
A) you were not there world champion.
B) If Ray Charles were still here with us he could have noticed the smell and the color....
C) your arguing for no good reason is not necessary.
You are very right and correct that there are many instances where a conventional oil can be run for very long intervals. Dnewton3 ran a conventional oil for 12k miles and it held up very well. Open highway driving and motor getting up to and maintaining operating temperature for a long time is very helpful.
A) you were not there world champion.
B) If Ray Charles were still here with us he could have noticed the smell and the color....
C) your arguing for no good reason is not necessary.
You are very right and correct that there are many instances where a conventional oil can be run for very long intervals. Dnewton3 ran a conventional oil for 12k miles and it held up very well. Open highway driving and motor getting up to and maintaining operating temperature for a long time is very helpful.
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I’m not saying the engine will self destruct at 5,001 miles, but over time and with lack of diligence (6,500 Miles here, 7,100 miles there...what’s another couple hundred miles gonna hurt...) varnish can be deposited, and varnish accumulates. All the sudden you have accumulated a few oil changes worth of varnish and your oil control valve screens have clogged up and you have a CEL with a P0011 or P0014 and you’re saying what the.... happened! I never went more than 7,500 miles! Not to mention 6,000 miles a year is likely in town short trip pattern, and short tripping causes condensation to form and not get burned off in the crankcase. Condensation mixed with combustion byproduct creates bearing eating acids. Not worth it to me.
Average engine replacement at my dealership runs about $5,000. Two $40 oil changes a year (which I never pay, my oil changes cost me between $10 and $20) would take 62.5 years to reach a cost equilibrium. So yes, it would take over 62 years to make “over changing your oil” cost more than replacing your engine. It’s cheaper than car insurance, which you may never use.
Average engine replacement at my dealership runs about $5,000. Two $40 oil changes a year (which I never pay, my oil changes cost me between $10 and $20) would take 62.5 years to reach a cost equilibrium. So yes, it would take over 62 years to make “over changing your oil” cost more than replacing your engine. It’s cheaper than car insurance, which you may never use.
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