Did you keep 5w-20 in a 200k mile

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Did you keep 5w-20 in a 200k mile vehicle? Is the oil film, oil film strength adequate in a 200k mile vehicle?

Or did you have some knocking and tapping noise with 5w-20 and successfully quiet the motor by switching to a thicker oil? Was it synthetic, dino, or heavy duty oil?
 
I put it in a 200K+ vehicle that was back spec'd for it w/o issue. In fact if it wasn't for the amount of 5W30 I have stashed I'd probably still be using it.
 
Many police and cab companies that use Crown Vics have put 200-400K using 5-20 oils. I'm nearing 100K and my engines and they are fine. I also used 5-20 in the late 70s in engines calling for 30-40wt oils with no problems.
 
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Originally Posted By: tig1
Many police and cab companies that use Crown Vics have put 200-400K using 5-20 oils. I'm nearing 100K and my engines and they are fine. I also used 5-20 in the late 70s in engines calling for 30-40wt oils with no problems.




When you mentioned this once before, I was like whoa! I couldnt Imagine doing this back then. Very impressive. And you are a brave man tig!
grin.gif
But I have finally made the switch to 5W-20 PP. And so far I`m glad I did, fuel millage is the same literally no change at all. However the throttle response is definitely better! The cold engine performance is way better than on the 5w30. (meaning it doesnt feel boggy when cold like it used to) And definitely pulls the hills around here much better. I have a jug of PU for my next run lined up already. So glad Toyota back specked this oil.
 
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Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: tig1
Many police and cab companies that use Crown Vics have put 200-400K using 5-20 oils. I'm nearing 100K and my engines and they are fine. I also used 5-20 in the late 70s in engines calling for 30-40wt oils with no problems.




When you mentioned this once before, I was like whoa! I couldnt Imagine doing this back then. Very impressive. And you are a brave man tig!
grin.gif
But I have finally made the switch to 5W-20 PP. And so far I`m glad I did, fuel millage is the same literally no change at all. However the throttle response is definitely better! The cold engine performance is way better than on the 5w30. (meaning it doesnt feel boggy when cold like it used to) And definitely pulls the hills around here much better. I have a jug of PU for my next run lined up already. So glad Toyota back specked this oil.


I went with M1 5-20 because at the time I lived in Maine and the 10-40 I was using made starting my engines a painful experience at -15 to-20F. I finally payed the $5 a qt price and I was amazed at the differance in cold starting. At that time the only negitive was a little more oil consumption.
 
I will be...and beyond. There are a fair amount of naysayers regarding the use of 5W-20, but I have seen zero reasons to switch to another grade of oil. Although I have been running PU 5W-20 SM, I will switch to Super 5W-20 SN at the next OC and will go from there.
 
Listen to the engine it will tell you if it likes it. I have 220K on my Honda and some XW20's it likes some it doesn't, but it likes all XW30's.
 
Anytime there is a naysayer mentioned, count me in... Sure they'll probably run 200K mi, but 700K mi???

From another thread...

Originally Posted By: Y_K
A cabby friend just decommissioned his MGM with over 700K miles on it: 5W-40 throughout all its life since new. He had to do this as the vehicle age was pushing 10 years, and he would lose some lucrative contracts with insurance Cos, hospitals, City, etc. They stipulate: no older than 10 years and no salvage title, as well as an inspection after any accident. The lot super bought it for $500 from him right away for his personal use, as he knows the car condition pretty well. Thin oil could prolly achieve the same, but I have no knowledge in my area at least of any drive for hire operator doing it. We had leaky seals on modulars after 220k when we tried it for the fuel economy. Possibly coincidental. I don't really know. May be in your area DFHT operators are brave enough? I would like to hear.
 
tig1 said:
Many police and cab companies that use Crown Vics have put 200-400K using 5-20 oils.

That is pure speculation on your part, so I'll add some speculation of my own: just as many PDs and cab companies have run 5-30 and 10-30 for 200-400K miles and their engines are fine as well
 
Originally Posted By: steve20
tig1 said:
Many police and cab companies that use Crown Vics have put 200-400K using 5-20 oils.

That is pure speculation on your part, so I'll add some speculation of my own: just as many PDs and cab companies have run 5-30 and 10-30 for 200-400K miles and their engines are fine as well



Well there you have it! It doesnt matter what grade of oil you use! It`s all good!
grin.gif
 
Originally Posted By: steve20
tig1 said:
Many police and cab companies that use Crown Vics have put 200-400K using 5-20 oils.

That is pure speculation on your part, so I'll add some speculation of my own: just as many PDs and cab companies have run 5-30 and 10-30 for 200-400K miles and their engines are fine as well


Thanks for backing me up that 20wt oils are equal to 30-40 wt oils.
 
I tried xW20 twice in 280+k miles LS400 without engine blew up. Oil consumption is a little more than 5W30 the engine is spec'ed for. Gas mileage seems to be about 2-5% better with thinner oil.
 
1st post!

Anyway,

I have a 1998 F-150 4.2 V6 that calls for 5W-20. I've been using it (Motorcraft syn blend) from day 1 with the exception of a few early rounds of Mobil 1 Full Syn.

The engine now has 252K miles and does eat about 1 quart every 6 to 8 weeks. There is no visible smoke on startup, running at any engine temp, under acceleration, and it doesn't leak anywhere. Obviously its burning it but again...never any embarrasing smoke at least.

I'm going to rebuild the engine later this year and will measure the clearances and compare them to new specs. It should prove interesting. I expect the valve stem seals and possibley the piston oil rings are to blame for the missing oil. Its just weird that there is never any smoke.

But anyway - for me - thumbs up on the Motorcraft 5w-20 syn blend. (I use the 10w30 in my Nissan Z32 NA).
 
Originally Posted By: Tech_Ed
1st post!

Anyway,

I have a 1998 F-150 4.2 V6 that calls for 5W-20. I've been using it (Motorcraft syn blend) from day 1 with the exception of a few early rounds of Mobil 1 Full Syn.

The engine now has 252K miles and does eat about 1 quart every 6 to 8 weeks. There is no visible smoke on startup, running at any engine temp, under acceleration, and it doesn't leak anywhere. Obviously its burning it but again...never any embarrasing smoke at least.

I'm going to rebuild the engine later this year and will measure the clearances and compare them to new specs. It should prove interesting. I expect the valve stem seals and possibley the piston oil rings are to blame for the missing oil. Its just weird that there is never any smoke.

But anyway - for me - thumbs up on the Motorcraft 5w-20 syn blend. (I use the 10w30 in my Nissan Z32 NA).





I would probably say the valve stem seals is the culprit.
 
Originally Posted By: qdeezie


I would probably say the valve stem seals is the culprit.



Me too.
 
Tech_Ed said:
I'm going to rebuild the engine later this year and will measure the clearances and compare them to new specs. It should prove interesting. I expect the valve stem seals and possibley the piston oil rings are to blame for the missing oil. Its just weird that there is never any smoke.
Please do keep us updated on your rebuild. With so many miles and all of the vehicle history known this would be valuable information.
 
Originally Posted By: wally6934
Please do keep us updated on your rebuild. With so many miles and all of the vehicle history known this would be valuable information.


No worries. I'm no oil expert so I don't anticipate a high post count here. However, I'm very interested in what wear I can measure once the rebuild starts.

I'm currently wrapping up a rebuild on an overheated Mazda 626 that I picked up for $300. It's in the assembly stage and should be running within a few weeks. Once that is finished I'll start collecting all the gaskets and seals needed for the 4.2 rebuild. Some things can't be pre-ordered (main bearings) until I know the crank measurements. I'm hoping that the pistons can be re-used but we'll see. I just like to have as many parts on-hand as possible before starting a project.

Meanwhile I just keep a couple of spare quarts around.
 
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