DI engine oil

[TiredTrucker]

Originally Posted by Bill_W

Now I'm second guessing my choice of PP in my truck

Thanks guys!

I hate this site (Just kidding I LOVE it)

Do a search with noack and your oil weight and choose PQIA

Here is 0w-20 for example.

http://pqiamerica.com/SAE_0W20_April_10_2017.html

PP has lowest noack in that weight oil...


And a lot of 5w20's have lower NOACK than many 0w20's. Unless I lived in some really extreme cold conditions, if my vehicle called for a 20 weight I would chose a 5w20 over a 0w20 any day of the week.

 

[Patman]

Originally Posted by TiredTrucker



And a lot of 5w20's have lower NOACK than many 0w20's. Unless I lived in some really extreme cold conditions, if my vehicle called for a 20 weight I would chose a 5w20 over a 0w20 any day of the week.


I ran 0w20 in my Honda for many years but last year I switched to 5w20 and even when we had a few super cold mornings at -22C the engine started just fine. I can't imagine needing a 0w20 unless it was much colder than that.

 

[OilUzer]

Originally Posted by dailydriver
Originally Posted by Patman
Yes, and when that oil mist is from an oil with a lower NOACK, you should have lower intake valve deposits too. And even if I was wrong, using an oil with a lower NOACK is never a bad choice.


I fully agree with you on this, but there are some on here who claim that lower NOACK levels actually contribute to more intake valve deposits.

iirc, there is only one? member who has said that. He seems to be very knowledgeable (relative term I suppose) but sometimes he makes controversial statements that is not supported by other experts ... and non-experts like most of us have to filter the data

I specifically asked about this (high noack is better for ivd) from other field experts and they disagreed.

 

[WhizkidTN]

Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by Patman
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by Speak2Mountain
That's why I've gone to a heavier oil 10w30 from 5w30. Much lower noack

NOACK does not correlate to intake valve deposits.



I disagree. I think having an oil with a lower NOACK is a big benefit to reducing intake valve deposits, along with an oil with lower SA too.


Lower NOACK does not help the intake buildup is a combination of oil mist from the PVC system, additives, combustion, and fuel.


It seems to be engine specific and a combination of efforts to slow the accumulation down. I run Castrol Edge 0W-40 oil with a ~4K OCI, I have very good catch cans installed on both the OEM PCV system and valve cover intake side of my system and run my car on 93 octane Top Tier gas. I do the "Italian Tune-up" as often as safely possible and just enjoy my turbo car! After all of that, I'm sure that I'll have to at some point do the Walnut shell cleaning.

 

[tiger862]

2012 Impala 3.6 DI is at 130000 and not even a tune up. Never had valves inspected nor a need to. All ever run since 20k is Pennzoil 5w30 with Gold up to 100k and last 30 with Platinum only cause Walmart no longer carry gold in stock. Never had a check engine light and changes have been as short as 5k and as long as 8k. 75% highway and 25% city. Dash still states 27.8 mpg.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted by ArtDart
Driven DI20-0w20 Synthetic Direct Injection Performance Motor Oil-$$$

That's the deal where if you don't buy their oil and simply pocket the difference, in four oil changes you'll have saved enough for a walnut blasting.

 

[K20FA5]

Originally Posted by TiredTrucker
Originally Posted by Bill_W

Now I'm second guessing my choice of PP in my truck

Thanks guys!

I hate this site (Just kidding I LOVE it)

Do a search with noack and your oil weight and choose PQIA

Here is 0w-20 for example.

http://pqiamerica.com/SAE_0W20_April_10_2017.html

PP has lowest noack in that weight oil...


And a lot of 5w20's have lower NOACK than many 0w20's. Unless I lived in some really extreme cold conditions, if my vehicle called for a 20 weight I would chose a 5w20 over a 0w20 any day of the week.

Originally Posted by TiredTrucker
Originally Posted by Bill_W

Now I'm second guessing my choice of PP in my truck

Thanks guys!

I hate this site (Just kidding I LOVE it)

Do a search with noack and your oil weight and choose PQIA

Here is 0w-20 for example.

http://pqiamerica.com/SAE_0W20_April_10_2017.html

PP has lowest noack in that weight oil...


And a lot of 5w20's have lower NOACK than many 0w20's. Unless I lived in some really extreme cold conditions, if my vehicle called for a 20 weight I would chose a 5w20 over a 0w20 any day of the week.


I'm just sticking with the 0W-20 for warranty purposes. If it starts burning oil or I need to I'll go to 5W-20. I only have 7,000 miles on it now.

 

[TiredTrucker]

Originally Posted by K20FA5

I'm just sticking with the 0W-20 for warranty purposes. If it starts burning oil or I need to I'll go to 5W-20. I only have 7,000 miles on it now.


I can understand that, but there is not a dealer, OEM, or anyone else that can tell the difference between a 0w20 and 5w20 if they wanted to on a used oil sample.

 

[K20FA5]

Originally Posted by TiredTrucker
Originally Posted by K20FA5

I'm just sticking with the 0W-20 for warranty purposes. If it starts burning oil or I need to I'll go to 5W-20. I only have 7,000 miles on it now.


I can understand that, but there is not a dealer, OEM, or anyone else that can tell the difference between a 0w20 and 5w20 if they wanted to on a used oil sample.


You make a good point! I even searched and there are D1G2 in the 5W-20 flavor. I might try one next OCI.

 

[Bill_W]

Well my 2019 Miata may not have a oil catch can, but it does have a oil separator after the PCV. Gee... you think Mazda is working on the problem?

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted by WhizkidTN
It seems to be engine specific and a combination of efforts to slow the accumulation down. I run Castrol Edge 0W-40 oil with a ~4K OCI, I have very good catch cans installed on both the OEM PCV system and valve cover intake side of my system and run my car on 93 octane Top Tier gas. I do the "Italian Tune-up" as often as safely possible and just enjoy my turbo car! After all of that, I'm sure that I'll have to at some point do the Walnut shell cleaning.



Same here.

I have/do all of the above as well, with the exception of the BP 0W-40, and the addition of some Red Line SI-1 once a month.

 

[Mr Nice]

Originally Posted by Bill_W
Well my 2019 Miata may not have a oil catch can, but it does have a oil separator after the PCV. Gee... you think Mazda is working on the problem?

Do all new Mazda vehicles have this feature ?

 

[WhizkidTN]

Originally Posted by dailydriver
Originally Posted by WhizkidTN
It seems to be engine specific and a combination of efforts to slow the accumulation down. I run Castrol Edge 0W-40 oil with a ~4K OCI, I have very good catch cans installed on both the OEM PCV system and valve cover intake side of my system and run my car on 93 octane Top Tier gas. I do the "Italian Tune-up" as often as safely possible and just enjoy my turbo car! After all of that, I'm sure that I'll have to at some point do the Walnut shell cleaning.



Same here.

I have/do all of the above as well, with the exception of the BP 0W-40, and the addition of some Red Line SI-1 once a month.

Yeah, I use the Red line SI-1 annually - very good stuff! With the discounts at O'Reilly's I get thought the year, I should buy it more often use it.

 

[PandaBear]

Originally Posted by TiredTrucker
And a lot of 5w20's have lower NOACK than many 0w20's. Unless I lived in some really extreme cold conditions, if my vehicle called for a 20 weight I would chose a 5w20 over a 0w20 any day of the week.


The same oil of different weight will always have lower noack on the 5w20 and 10w30 than 0w20 and 5w30. This is because they will not need to blend as much extremely low visc and extremely high visc base oil together to achieve the wider spread of 0w20 and 5w30. The extremely lower visc base oil will evaporate first.


Originally Posted by dave1251
Lower NOACK does not help the intake buildup is a combination of oil mist from the PVC system, additives, combustion, and fuel.


It affects for sure. The evaporation will help carrying the additives and other oil soluble "junk" to the intake valves, the more evaporation the more deposit for sure (although it has a lot to do with the formula as well). So, if I can use a 0w20 vs 5w20 in a warm climate, why don't I use a 5w20? You know as well as everyone else that they spec 0w20 only because this is a sure fire way to guarantee synthetic and 10k OCI, it has nothing to do with 0w20 being a better oil in warm climate (i.e. 20C ambient) start up viscosity and fuel economy.

So, the question is, why not. You might as well use 5w20 because it is lower noack, in the same oil. Picking SN+ with less calcium will also help too (again, why not, if it help LSPI because of less buildup).

 

[pitzel]

The key with DI engines is to use a low NOACK oil, and *don't change the oil more frequently than manufacturer's spec*. Its the shorter OCI interval that's extremely harmful as the worst of the boil-off occurs with virgin motor oil.

 

[parshisa]

Any fact/actual data to back thus statement up?

 

[ChrisD46]

*Where are you spraying the CRC IVC into : The Intake Manifold or a vacuum hose ?
Originally Posted by TiredTrucker
Low NOACK may or may not have an impact on intake valve deposits. Actually, the PCV system in general has more of an impact.... how well it is designed by the OEM to prohibit particulates and oil from going thru the PCV to the intake. Some are poorly designed, some better.

Each person can determine how they want to deal with it. I do a CRC Intake Valve cleaning procedure on my GDI engine every 10,000 miles. We will just have to see over time if that is a positive. None of my engines call for anything lighter than a 30 weight oil. So the 20 weight thing really is moot for me.

 

[Nissanfan845]

I know that this is a manufacturers issue and will only act as a bandaid so to speak until you can repair the issue but I would try a heavier weight motor oil and Valvoline Modern Engine Full Synthetic motor oil done an excellent job at fighting carbon build up and will help aid in cleaning up your intake valves. As far as OCI's go I would recommend lower mileage OCI's. What is your current mileage?

 

[TiredTrucker]

Originally Posted by ChrisD46
*Where are you spraying the CRC IVC into : The Intake Manifold or a vacuum hose ?


Thru the throttle body into the intake manifold. it is really easy on the Equinox 2.4L we have. I drilled a small hole in the intake plenum that I can run the spray can straw thru. Yes, I drilled the hole with the plenum off the engine (someone was bound to comment on that). I use a small screw in the hole to plug it up for normal operation. The hole is at the right location so that the spray is direct on the throttle body. Keep motor at around 2000 RPM, short bursts of spray until the can is empty, rev to around 3500 a couple of times, idle for half a minute, and then shut off and let it heat soak for at least an hour. Then take vehicle out and drive around for a while.

I suppose using a vacuum line would work as long as its location at the intake manifold would be such that all the cylinders would get equal amounts of the CRC product. There is usually more than one way to skin a cat.