Dampers (shocks) lasting nearly “forever”?

Replaced shocks/struts on our Odyssey at around 200k miles, and the originals were still working (no obvious leaks, could still feel damping when cycled by hand). Were they as effective as new? I don't know. I didn't notice a huge change in ride quality with new KYBs.

Same thing on my S40 when I replaced the original Volvo shocks/struts with Bilstein at 220k. Not a huge change in ride quality and the originals were still "working". I think one of the rear shocks had a lot of leakage on the Volvo, though.

On the other hand, a few years ago, I had a 1986 Jetta and I replaced the shocks and struts around 250k miles (odometer broke). It was a drastic change. The originals were very worn out and made the back end bounce on the highway. After replacement, the car had a much firmer ride, but very controlled. It would have been a sporty 2200-lb car if it had more power, lol.

So in my experience, a car could go 200k on original shocks/struts without being worn out.
 
Replaced shocks on a 13 year old 150,000 mile F-150. The original factory shocks were of much better quality and ride than the new direct replacement shocks. Varies by vehicle but if there are no indications of weak/leaking shocks I’d ride on and keep my money.
 
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Cujet said:
These are pics of various motorcycle shocks and forks, but the info is relevant. In the past, when a shock's piston sealing effectiveness declined even a little, (or the oil aerated, got hot or broke down and lost viscosity) the damping force was markedly lower.

The off road guys forced development of shocks that could maintain consistent performance over a wide temperature range and over a long period of time. Without going into mind numbing details, the 1950's DeCarbon method of a sealed gas filled chamber kept oil from aerating was employed, along with a refinement of the piston holes.

No longer were the piston's oil passageways tiny. Instead they were huge, and "one way". With a spring loaded valve on each side. (really a stack of spring steel washers) As the piston lost some sealing ability on the bore, or the oil lost viscosity, the springs would simply deflect less. Leading to more consistent performance.

So over time, shocks were refined into a consistent performance device. With oil choices that hold up over time, piston ring seals that last, piston designs that can accommodate significant wear and DeCarbon gas chambers that prevent aeration and can even tolerate some oil loss.

3-35_DeCarbon400.jpg

s-l500.jpg
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I think monotube dampers such as these are a bit different from the "twintube" (seems like a misnomer) dampers that come stock on most cars, since the monotube requires a high pressure nitrogen charge to work properly. Whereas the twintube is only "pushing" against its valves, only has a low pressure nitrogen charge, and is still functional if that charge is lost.

And I also think the purpose of shim stacks is to provide digressive damping, controlling low (shock) speed events to reduce wallowing while being able to blow off high-speed impacts without choking. I think the digressive damping is intended for better performance, rather than to compensate for wear.
 
I conclude the answers will vary.
1) A know-it-all Saab guy swore Saab shocks/struts lasted forever. He claimed never bothering to salvage them from wrecks (free parts for his business).

2) All 4 dampers in my '05 Saab 9-5 Aero went out simultaneously. They grunted horribly and caused unstable driving. There's no doubt in my mind that GM went cheap. I installed Bilsteins HD. That was an impressive improvement. Those Billies sold the car for me when the time came.

3) Sis had a '99 Jeep Cherokee. At well over 150K her shocks were still performing perfectly.
I'd drive fast off heaved concrete paving, landing 6" to 9" lower. Her old shocks took the compression and rebounded back instantly. Can't do better than that. And I actually wanted to change them.....didn't need to one bit.

4) I replaced all 4 corners of my '02 Volvo V70 starting with the rears and that alone was an amazing improvement. One of the fronts hadto empty leaked and didn't match (performance wise) the other at all. I bought the SACHS SporTourings; a stock replacement.

5) If I've learned one thing about shocks, >>>DO NOT buy air adjustable shocks unless you're planning to dump the vehicle. I've read nothing but, "I can't fine replacements" stories. This is just another piece of irrefutable evidence supporting the argument that the industry is really out to screw us. This is not an 'old man rant'.
 
You'd almost have to confine the discussion to a particular model, there are so many variables. Suspension type, use case, vehicle weight, unsprung weight etc

As noted some vehicles can seemingly drive fine even with visibly leaking shocks. Others will noticeably be sketchy or even dangerous.

I once had an '02 Taco that seemingly had horrible bump steer and rode terribly. New front struts cured it 100%. Our '08 F150 has an Icon (IVD) front strut that has moved into the stage of nothing-left-to-leak and drives surprisingly well but big potholes suck.
 
BMWTurboDzl said:
I suppose it's possible on vehicles which have softer suspensions and taller tires. As I understand it the deterioration in ride is so gradual that owners are unlikely to realize it unless they look under the car and see their shocks leaking. Especially for those who putter around town.

As for a change interval I can't see there being one and I've never heard of an automaker having one.
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Here is one example of a person claiming 180k miles on “very stiff”, “sport” suspension and no bouncing. He did have to replace top plates (shock mounts?) at 120k mi though
IMG_1623.jpeg
 
OP is quoting European forums. Generally, suspension on European cars is more stout than comparable Asian or American vehicles.
For example on BMW E90 rear shocks will start to fail 100-150k. Mine failed around 105k, but had around 5k of track usage. They were “regular “ shocks. BMW’s with sport suspension get stiffer, more durable shocks. However, I have not seen failed strut yet on them, regardless of mileage. Replaced with monotube Bilstein B6.
On my Tiguan at 102k all dampers are really good.
On other hand, struts on my 2015 Sienna start leaking at 74k. By 85k when I sold vehicle, they were pissing and front end got seriously underdamped. In Europe I had to change all dampers on my Toyota Prado around 140k. They were completely shot.
 
I can say this much on a GM SUV purchased new, and with extended warranty.

The front left strut leaked oil at 55k. It got replaced under warranty--just the left side and one wheel alignment covered.

The extended warranty expired at 93k. The right front was leaking and the left front leaking again.

This told me OE no good. Rear shocks leaking as well.

Because Bilstein B6 was not much more than factory OE, we went with them. Also, always wanted to look under my car and see yellow shocks with blue boots.

I've read good luck getting them to honor a lifetime warranty, but maybe will never need it anyway.
 
I’m at 128k miles, and rear shocks will probably need to be replaced soon. Struts seem fine.
 
John105 said:
good since my 335i has the ZSP and is now going on 17 years old.
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One thing about BMW enthusiasts is that they will change parts bcs. something else might provide better performance. Case in point are shock mounts. They are tuned for RFT, but most BMW enthusiasts go regular tires. Monroe makes stiffer mounts for $9. And once they become available, actually there was shortage pf them bcs. people were buying them left and right.
 
I have replaced struts and shocks as early as 30k miles and as late as 80k miles on my Buicks.
The ‘07 Accord still rides well on original struts and shocks at 90k miles.
I think the softer Buick struts and shocks wear past acceptable sooner because they’re softer to begin with.
 
AlphaOmega said:
Here is one example of a person claiming 180k miles on “very stiff”, “sport” suspension and no bouncing. He did have to replace top plates (shock mounts?) at 120k mi though
View attachment 149720
Click to expand...
IMO it just depends on how the vehicle is set up. I watch Youtuber M539 Restorations and his 2000's era project BMW's which typically have around 150k km on the odometer always seem to have shocks/struts exhibit zero rebound.
 
I tend to look at things like this pragmatically. There is no way I would ever expect to get 200k km (125k miles) out of a set of shocks/struts unless the vehicle was strictly a highway going vehicle which certainly mine is not. So, if I planned on having the vehicle for say, 200k km, I wouldn't mind changing them around 100-120k km so I get the best life out of both sets. It makes no sense to me whatsoever to use the originals up to say 160k km and then change them knowing I will only have the car for another 1-2 years.
 
AlphaOmega said:
Based on what?
Click to expand...

Experience?

That doesn't mean they may not "last" that long, but for the same reason I use dedicated summer and winter tires, I like the performance and to know it is there if I need it.

I guess what I am saying is I am not willing to compromise and use something near the end of its life if performance is going to be degraded. Same reason I drive a sporty car. If I was driving a Camry or something just to get from point A to B I might let things go further.
 
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