Dad asked for help sealing a crack. Did we use the right sealant?

[y_p_w]

It's along the base of the house and it's apparently leaking inside when it rains. The bottom is a slab of concrete with stucco siding over it. There's been a crack developing between the siding and the concrete. He looked over some YouTube videos and found someone recommending Quikrete Polyurethane Non-Sag sealant for concrete and mortar repairs. Thought it might be at HD, but we went there and they didn't have (except for order and pickup) any there or at any nearby location (maybe in stock 20 miles away).

https://www.quikrete.com/dealers/products/polynonsagsealant.asp#

So what they had that was similar was Rapid Set Non-Sag, although they were out of white. They had gray or black, which I guess are mostly for bare concrete or bare asphalt repairs, but would have still worked for this application. Sakrete has something similar, but only in gray for mortar repairs.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rapid-Set-10-1-fl-oz-Non-Sag-Sealant-in-White-196330010/301015720
https://www.homedepot.com/p/SAKRETE-10-1-oz-Polyurethane-Non-Sag-Sealant-65450009/207086759

Ended up getting Sika Sikaflex All Purpose Non-Sag. It was the only non-sag sealant they had in-stock in white.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sika-10...alant-Polyurethane-in-White-7116045/300934496

These were all in the concrete and cement section, and they only had one high priced caulk gun in the section. Had to go to the caulk section (in the paint section) to find anything cheap (like $5).

Still wondering if this was the right thing to seal up the cracks. They all seem pretty similar and there wasn't really all that much of the packaging of any of these that was specific about stucco to concrete joint repairs.

 

[GON]

I would focus less on did I use the right substance to fill a crack, and more on routing water eight feet or more from the structure. Might want to look at options such as installing drain tile, working gutters, etc.

Water entering a structure is often centered on water flowing to the structure, then away from the structure. If that happens to be the case in your Dad's home- fix the water flow to stop water from entering the structure.

 

[y_p_w]

I would focus less on did I use the right substance to fill a crack, and more on routing water eight feet or more from the structure. Might want to look at options such as installing drain tile, working gutters, etc.

Water entering a structure is often centered on water flowing to the structure, then away from the structure. If that happens to be the case in your Dad's home- fix the water flow to stop water from entering the structure.

No. It's got working gutters and a fairly recent roof. But when it rains, at least some water still gets to this area where it's leaking.

 

[nomas]

Find a way to channel the water away . It's going to find a way in .

 

[y_p_w]

Find a way to channel the water away . It's going to find a way in .

This is the side of the house. The water isn't just channeling to this crack, but when it rains I can't see how to prevent some water from hitting the side of the house unless it's wrapped in a plastic bag like a damp umbrella.

 

[Nessism1]

My garage has similar cracking. The roof had four layers of shingles, which were recently removed and replaced. The poor garage must be freaking out, because the cracks opened up big time.

I have stucco repair patch that I was going to press into the cracks, but after reading here, maybe some flexible sealer is better, before I put the patch on? Any consensus on the best sealer? Push sealer deep into the crack, then spread stucco patch over the top?

 

[facility1]

along my driveway/foundation there was a crack about a quarter inch wide, just put in some clear Dap Alex plus silicon fortified caulk, worked fine so far, cleaned out good and injected in crack/void.

 

[doitmyself]

Late to the discussion. Normally the best sealant with best adhesion and flexibility on cement type materials is polyurethane sealant such as Sikaflex that the OP chose. I'm not sure if there is any difference in the construction sealant vs. the concrete sealant. maybe just the label?
https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Sika-...VDTYIBR0AGwFEEAQYASABEgIWSvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Lubener]

Late to the discussion. Normally the best sealant with best adhesion and flexibility on cement type materials is polyurethane sealant such as Sikaflex that the OP chose. I'm not sure if there is any difference in the construction sealant vs. the concrete sealant. maybe just the label?
https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Sika-...VDTYIBR0AGwFEEAQYASABEgIWSvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Even later to the discussion because I ran into this several years ago because of a footer tile issue. I used the same product to seal the crack. After the sealant dried, I went over the area with roofing tar, extending out about six inches beyond the crack and a little below the soil line. I also fixed the footer tile too which caused the crack, then back filled the area..

 

[Pablo]

Useless without pictures and details

 

[Lubener]

Useless without pictures and details

Useless without pictures and details

I can provide cartoon illustration if it will help you understand this simple repair.

 

[Pablo]

I can provide cartoon illustration if it will help you understand this simple repair.

Sure, I personally need a better picture of the slope, the size, the materials, the soil perc, etc - I mean could guess and say nothing will work OR something like hydraulic cement will work. Dunno.

Cut, dig, drain pipe, fill and reseal???

 

[andyd]

Water needs to be lead away, down and out, from where the wind blows it in. Trying to make water defy gravity is a losing game