Cutting a small angle across wide 2x material

[Rand]

If op really wants a 15degree maybe don't start on corner but 3/8" up?
It would also make the cut shorter

 

[tnt_motorsports]

1) I don’t know of any compound mitre saw that will cut 11.5” high material.

2) still not visualizing how to do it with one cut. Maybe with two?

3) I can get infinite angles with a hand saw, but it’s a lot of cutting on 2x12 material.




Just to be certain, since I don’t have a good photo, here’s a drawing on a receipt:

View attachment 296409

Please see the photo. Maybe some giant saw would have a blade large enough, but not my skil work drive or other normal saws.

I have done that too. I’d like a smaller angle because I may stack more than one and I want to minimize the step up.

Mine are 3 boards high cut at 45. I staggered the board to allow a smoother transition.

 

[JHZR2]

Mine are 3 boards high cut at 45. I staggered the board to allow a smoother transition.

I’m still thinking about how I do the length of the other parts. I have infinite working length if I use them outdoors, and very finite if I use them inside of my 20’ long garage bays.

 

[ecotourist]

You can get the angle, but unless the Skilsaw has a 5 3/4” depth of cut, you’re not getting the cut all the way across the 2x12”. He’s making a wedge across the wide face for a car ramp, not a bevel for framing.

Still, two good kerfs at the desired angle would allow you to get a good crosscut handsaw started and on track.

Clean up with the plane.

Agreed.

 

[ecotourist]

You can get the angle, but unless the Skilsaw has a 5 3/4” depth of cut, you’re not getting the cut all the way across the 2x12”. He’s making a wedge across the wide face for a car ramp, not a bevel for framing.

Still, two good kerfs at the desired angle would allow you to get a good crosscut handsaw started and on track.

Clean up with the plane.

With one skill saw cut you'll have the angle right and if the cut isn't right through it will be fairly easy to finish it off with a hand saw. @Rand 's idea of cutting off the tip is a good one too. That would make for a stronger end with no detriment to the intended purpose. .

 

[JHZR2]

You can get the angle, but unless the Skilsaw has a 5 3/4” depth of cut, you’re not getting the cut all the way across the 2x12”. He’s making a wedge across the wide face for a car ramp, not a bevel for framing.

Still, two good kerfs at the desired angle would allow you to get a good crosscut handsaw started and on track.

Clean up with the plane.

I’m still not quite visualizing how to set up to get those angles consistently with a skil saw, even if I accepted a very shallow kerf as a guide.

Sequential depth cuts to knock out like in your drawing, that’s straightforward. But if my saw only tilts to do a 45, I’m not visualizing how I get an angle I want on the wood, consistently, even if I set up a fence that lifts the one side of the saw.

Probably need to lay a saw on the wood versus dreaming about it in my minds eye.

 

[shortyb]

Take your boards to a mill and have them cut it. Much easier and cheaper in the long run.

 

[ecotourist]

I’m still not quite visualizing how to set up to get those angles consistently with a skil saw, even if I accepted a very shallow kerf as a guide.

Sequential depth cuts to knock out like in your drawing, that’s straightforward. But if my saw only tilts to do a 45, I’m not visualizing how I get an angle I want on the wood, consistently, even if I set up a fence that lifts the one side of the saw.

Probably need to lay a saw on the wood versus dreaming about it in my minds eye.

With a side piece cut at 45 degrees, and with that cut surface acting as the base for your Skill saw, all you have to do is follow the line between the side block and the main piece and (with your blade tilted further and going in the right direction of course) you can make a cut at a very shallow angle. And finish it off with a hand saw if it's not all the way through.

 

[tnt_motorsports]

I’m still thinking about how I do the length of the other parts. I have infinite working length if I use them outdoors, and very finite if I use them inside of my 20’ long garage bays.

Here are mine. The piece at the end is a stop so I don’t drive off them. I’ve used them for everything. My 2012 Ram, my TT, the van, my riding mower. Literally everything.

 

[SC Maintenance]

With a side piece cut at 45 degrees, and with that cut surface acting as the base for your Skill saw, all you have to do is follow the line between the side block and the main piece and (with your blade tilted further and going in the right direction of course) you can make a cut at a very shallow angle. And finish it off with a hand saw if it's not all the way through.

I think I know what your saying, but I don't think it will work because the guide on the saw extends out both sides of the blade, so you can't get the saw blade into the corner - If I am following your process correctly.

 

[burbguy82]

 

[burbguy82]

View attachment 296530

You could use a few 2x4s or 2x6 instead of 1 2x12.....would be stronger

 

[ecotourist]

I think I know what your saying, but I don't think it will work because the guide on the saw extends out both sides of the blade, so you can't get the saw blade into the corner - If I am following your process correctly.

You'll just have to try it. Cut the 2' long 2X8 cross piece (with the 45 degree bevel), attach it with screws (far below the next cut so you don't run into the screws) and then using the bevel on the cross piece as the base for the saw, fiddle with the bevel angle for the next cut. It'll be way less than 45 degrees. You can make that final cut as shallow as you like.

 

[SC Maintenance]

You'll just have to try it. Cut the 2' long 2X8 cross piece (with the 45 degree bevel), attach it with screws (far below the next cut so you don't run into the screws) and then using the bevel on the cross piece as the base for the saw, fiddle with the bevel angle for the next cut. It'll be way less than 45 degrees. You can make that final cut as shallow as you like.

This piece of the guard will prevent you from getting the blade down to the bottom of the corner - where your cross piece bevel meets the board your trying to cut. Or do you intend to cut the bottom inch of your own bevel off in the process - which might work but then you don't have enough blade to cut much more than an inch into what is going to be a 6 inch cut.

 

[ecotourist]

This piece of the guard will prevent you from getting the blade down to the bottom of the corner - where your cross piece bevel meets the board your trying to cut. Or do you intend to cut the bottom inch of your own bevel off in the process - which might work but then you don't have enough blade to cut much more than an inch into what is going to be a 6 inch cut.

View attachment 296534

I don't think so. You attach the beveled 2X8 right at the end of the long board. When you make the final bevel cut you'll be on top of everything. There is even an open space below one side of the Skillsaw's base.

 

[SC Maintenance]

I don't think so. You attach the beveled 2X8 right at the end of the long board. When you make the final bevel cut you'll be on top of everything. There is even an open space below one side of the Skillsaw's base.

OK, I understand what your saying, but now your back to hand holding a skill saw on a 2 inch bevel with no fence or guide, and getting 2 inches of a 6 inch cut. I don't see that any better than just clamping the board on a saw hoarse and start cutting right on the but end with the same skill saw, but I guess whatever the OP is most comfortable with.

I predict this will get done with a sawzall and the proper blade.

 

[JHZR2]

You could use a few 2x4s or 2x6 instead of 1 2x12.....would be stronger

Stronger how? The 2x12 is laid on the ground on its wide edges. The 1.5” thick wood is in compression, doesn’t matter if it’s two 2x6 side by side or one 2x12.

 

[JHZR2]

OK, I understand what your saying, but now your back to hand holding a skill saw on a 2 inch bevel with no fence or guide, and getting 2 inches of a 6 inch cut. I don't see that any better than just clamping the board on a saw hoarse and start cutting right on the but end with the same skill saw, but I guess whatever the OP is most comfortable with.

I predict this will get done with a sawzall and the proper blade.

I’m most likely to do it as @Astro14 showed earlier. It’s beyond easy to just draw some lines and cut across the boards at increasing depths. Then knock out the waste.

I do like the idea of leaving the end about 3/8 thick.

 

[burbguy82]

Stronger how? The 2x12 is laid on the ground on its wide edges. The 1.5” thick wood is in compression, doesn’t matter if it’s two 2x6 side by side or one 2x12.

I did not want to make the post terribly long, but since you asked.........I should have used more durable than stronger or both.

One of the pics in the thread had some 2x12s laid flat and then connected by another piece....what I was really suggeesting was two things.....the handsaw to make the cut that a miter saw would not, and for whatever reason a circular saw would not suffice.....and also suggesting perhaps 2x4s laid al long the strength axis of the board, like several sandwiched together, since the cut of the board (for you) was too difficult for whatever reason.........

the height would be 1\2 higher, but much stronger and more durable.

Years ago, I made something similar for pads for my trailers. I found that 2x12 would crack (with the grain) if used with much compressive force.......especially after they dry fully.

The bigger the wood is dimensionally, the less stable it is.

 

[burbguy82]

This is a bevel cut across the width - like a 12” wide wedge. I don’t think a saw of any kind will work for that on a 2x12”.

I would scribe the angle you want on the sides. Mark it well.

Method 1. Grab a portable power plane and set it for about 1/8” depth of cut, and start cutting your bevel by going across the face of the bevel. A bit at a time. As you approach your scribe lines, smaller cuts, perhaps 1/16” going down the face of your bevel to get it spot on.

You could rough the cut with a sawzall, with a stiff blade, going slow but cut 1/2” shy of your scribe lines and then clean it up with the plane.

Method 2. If you don’t have a power plane - go old school. Set your circular saw at 90 degrees and set it to cut to the depth of your scribe lines every 1/4”. Cut across the face of your bevel. Reset the depth, cut the next slot. Then repeat until you’re at the top of the bevel (full board thickness).

When you’re done - from the side, it will look like a comb, lots of parallel slots. Each one going down from face of your board to the face of your intended plane. Now, get a large chisel, and chisel those pieces off using the depth of the slots as your guide and then chisel down (or belt sander) to your intended plane surface.

Here’s what I mean:

View attachment 296417

I like this idea....it would give you conceivably some grippy grippy aswell.

I think the request is a bit silly with the desired angle, having to do with the application......the edge will not last long unless reinforced, but maybe. I think it will depend on the supporting surface and quality of the wood.