Custom Oil Hoses

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Mar 10, 2017
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Location
South Wales, UK
I need to be schooled on hoses.

I want to add an oil pressure gauge to our new-to-us VW Transporter. Unfortunately due to space constraints I'm going to have to remotely mount it.

I need a male M10x1 fitting on one end and a female M10x1 fitting on the other.

I've been on various hose manufacturers and they all seem to come in 'AN' threads which I've never heard of before. Finding an AN6 to female M10x1 hose end seems to be impossible. And finding an AN6 to female M10x1mm adaptor also seems to be impossible. The only solution that I can find here would be to build an AN6 hose with female AN6 fittings either end, then install AN6 to male M10x1mm adaptors on each end and on the one where I need a female M10x1mm end another M10x1 coupler. All of which seems to add a lot of 'failure points' to me? Am I looking at this wrong?

Alternatively, I could get some 4mm oil hose and pop a 4mm barb to M10x1mm on one end and female on the other. Quite how resilient are barbed fittings with a suitably sized hose clamp?

I could just phone a hose manufacturer and get something made, but there's no fun in that!
 
If you want to try a homemade solution, purchase the 4mm oil rated hose (or high pressure fuel injection line which is petroleum resistant). Attach the barbed fittings with solid band fuel injection hose clamps, not regular worm drive hose clamps.
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Just an FYI, AN fittings are common US aviation spec hardware (AN stands for Army Navy). Amazingly useful stuff for sure, but not metric and generally don't adapt to metric. One issue to be aware of, AN flares are 37º, not 45º.

It is very easy to configure the plumbing using real AN hardware, hoses and so on, if the situation works.

Example of an AN fitting with pipe threads on one end. Ideal for hooking oil cooler lines to an engine.

image

A small airplane engine with AN fittings and hoses. Notice the hoses generally DO NOT have 90º fittings on them. This prevents loosening from vibration. My point is that there is a science to it.
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Elbow? Tap a different location? Use a factory switch/sender port?

The engine bay of our Transporter is rather tight. The rear of the engine is a no-go zone without removing the turbo. The oil cooler/filter assembly is on the front of the engine and that's where the factory sender screws into. However the front of the engine is just a few centimetres from the radiator fans. I'm hoping to take a measurement and find a short enough T piece that I can screw the factory sender into the end of it without it fouling on the radiator/fans, and then come off the T piece with a suitable hose to a remotely mounted sender unit.

This is the engine bay...

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This is the oil cooler/filter block. The sender goes into the M10 threaded hole at the bottom left hand side of the filter housing. All other holes are for fixing to the engine block. There's not a whole lot of room in there. And what room there is, is an absolute nightmare to get at.

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I use these guys to get Earl's fittings and hose. The bolt together Earl's hose ends are very popular with racers. I build my own brake lines using the stuff. Highly recommended.

BTW, just say NO to hose ends using worm clamps. Get the good stuff using an internal ferrule that bolt together.

https://www.anplumbing.com/
 
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FWIW, my parents burned down a brand new Dodge Omni with an aftermarket oil pressure gauge.

Dad rigged the engine tap-- poorly. It leaked oil.

It was Mom's car. She smelled smoke but was a mile away from Dad's work so she figured she'd drive it over there and let him have a look. Burned down in the parking lot.

I'd question if adding this gauge will help or hinder the vehicle's reliability.

Whatever you do, do well.
 
Metal pipe - extension, elbow, tee or some combination thereof. Elbows come in 45 degree angles as well as 90, and various length and they’ll be available in metric sizes.

Lengthy routing, as you’re proposing, with rubber hose of any kind invites leaks through rubbing unless you route carefully, and wrap.

How big is this sender?

Why buy the gauge before you figure out if the sender will fit?
 
Metal pipe - extension, elbow, tee or some combination thereof. Elbows come in 45 degree angles as well as 90, and various length and they’ll be available in metric sizes.

Lengthy routing, as you’re proposing, with rubber hose of any kind invites leaks through rubbing unless you route carefully, and wrap.

How big is this sender?

Why buy the gauge before you figure out if the sender will fit?

Unfortunately you can't see the location without either putting the van into 'service position' which involves removing the front bumper, inserting steel rods into the chassis legs through the radiator housing, releasing the slam panel and sliding the entire thing forward 20cm on the steel rods or removing the A/C compressor.

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I think I'm going to order some different shapes and sizes of T pieces and just see if I can get it to fit first. If not, then I'll have to look down the hose route.

Appreciate all the info guys. Whatever I do, won't be a bodge!
 
I need to be schooled on hoses.

I want to add an oil pressure gauge to our new-to-us VW Transporter. Unfortunately due to space constraints I'm going to have to remotely mount it.

I need a male M10x1 fitting on one end and a female M10x1 fitting on the other.

I've been on various hose manufacturers and they all seem to come in 'AN' threads which I've never heard of before. Finding an AN6 to female M10x1 hose end seems to be impossible. And finding an AN6 to female M10x1mm adaptor also seems to be impossible. The only solution that I can find here would be to build an AN6 hose with female AN6 fittings either end, then install AN6 to male M10x1mm adaptors on each end and on the one where I need a female M10x1mm end another M10x1 coupler. All of which seems to add a lot of 'failure points' to me? Am I looking at this wrong?

Alternatively, I could get some 4mm oil hose and pop a 4mm barb to M10x1mm on one end and female on the other. Quite how resilient are barbed fittings with a suitably sized hose clamp?

I could just phone a hose manufacturer and get something made, but there's no fun in that!
This past winter I built an entire E85 fuel system for my truck with AN fitting and PTFE stainless sleeved hose.
Summit racing will have everything you need. https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=ptfe fittings&page=2
I would highly recommend that you buy the test fitting for whatever size line you are building so that you can check for leaks with air pressure. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fra-900666

Make sure you buy the correct AN fitting for the type hose you are using as they are not all the same.
 
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