Curious. Do you check water/electrolyte in "maintenance-free" wet cell/flooded lead-acid batteries?

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Apr 14, 2021
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Know the question is not relevant to those who prefer to view batteries as a time-based "consumable" and just change then periodically (like oil).
But can't imagine any negatives to checking - once past warranty.
Current battery still working well at four years. An Autocraft Gold which looks like a Johnson Controls unit. And, unless they are plastic-welded or otherwise bonded, looks like the covers could pop-off by prying with a flat screwdriver (photo below).
(Though admit that if it were one of those models where access was thoroughly hidden, probably wouldn't be getting an itch to at least take a peek at the level in each cell...)
 

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Once or twice during the life of a battery. Starter batteries today are made with lead-calcium alloy instead of lead-antimony and only off gas a small fraction of what they used to do during charging. Unless the car is overcharging the battery, they don't use much water except for a little evaporation.

If you lived in a really hot climate, you might need to add a little water once in a while, but not typically.
 
Appreciate the comments. Next time do a full charge, guess it wouldn't hurt to take a look.

(and just noticed that Johnson Controls is now "Clarios, Powering Today, Into Tomorrow, as One of the 2023 World's Most Ethical Companies®")
 
Yes
Have a 7-8 year old battery for my classic.
Topping up the cells made the battery perform far better than it's been in years.

I'm thinking I should easily be able to get another few years out of it.
 
I still try to buy car batteries that have the removal caps and I check the acid level about 2X/year. At the very least, I add filtered water if I don't have distilled water and I keep the maintainer on a lot whenever possible. I've had batteries last between 11 & 20 years by doing this and I will keep doing this even though other may disagree or try to tell me something else like, "I'm the nutty one"!
I have my own data.

Last summer(2022) I replace the Walmart EverStart(non MAXX) in the Firebird in my signature after 20 years of regular maintenance(checking acid level and post corrosion(none ever) and keeping a Schumacher Battery Maintainer on all the time when not in use.

The battery(marine/deep cycle) for my back-up sump pump in my basement, which is on "maintain" 24/7 lasted 11 years before the lights on the maintainer were flickering RED.

I still have the OE battery in the 2015 Altima in my signature, which has a mfg date of 5/14. And the car has a mfg date of 10/14(as a 2015 model) and I do the same with this OE battery. Hasn't failed yet.
 
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Here in the NE it is not worth it keeping a starting battery beyond 4-5 years if you want to start up some winter morning at 20 below zero.
 
Know the question is not relevant to those who prefer to view batteries as a time-based "consumable" and just change then periodically (like oil).
But can't imagine any negatives to checking - once past warranty.
Current battery still working well at four years. An Autocraft Gold which looks like a Johnson Controls unit. And, unless they are plastic-welded or otherwise bonded, looks like the covers could pop-off by prying with a flat screwdriver (photo below).
(Though admit that if it were one of those models where access was thoroughly hidden, probably wouldn't be getting an itch to at least take a peek at the level in each cell...)
That’s not a maintenance free battery-the maintenance free ones don’t have caps. Just because they’re recessed doesn’t mean they’re not removable. When I was crazy enough to have JC/Clarios “leakers” I checked electrolyte twice a year, add enough distilled to reach the slots on the bottom of the tube, the meniscus should look concave, like a contact lens. Always top off a fully charged battery, wear gloves, safety goggles, and clothes you won’t mind ruining!
 
If I ever have to put a battery on a charger (not a maintainer), I will pop the caps off and top off the plates. If the caps are removable.
 
Here are some current shots of some Walmart EverStart maxx batteries. One has protruding caps and one has a smooth top. No explanation why one has caps and the other doesn’t. Nor is there any instructions with the batteries. I guess the manufacturer is avoiding liability claims by just ignoring the issue and not suggesting people take the caps off to add water. The caps are there to check the water. Up to you if you want to do that. Will that prolong its life? Maybe we need to do a Bitog questionnaire on battery life vs maintenance free details. The interesting thing is, there is no opportunity make a decision on which type of battery you want to reach for. It’s by size but not battery type at this particular store. By the way, the one with caps was made in the USA. Not sure where the maintenance free on was made.


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Years ago I had a weird electrical condition that took me a while to find. What happened was the water level got low in my battery so its resistance went way up. It read the right voltage until you tried to pull current from it. That voltage drop made strange things happen, like setting off the alarm, which made it worse because the alarm does things like flash the headlights. Ever since then, I check the water level when I change the oil, and top it off with distilled water if needed.
 
Never. With all the debate, again we can look at BMW OE batteries. Mine is 12 years old (Exide made in USA--I stupidly had the German one replaced at year 5, my choice, dealer said it's fine why are you replacing it). My aunt went 14 years. One can argue that water needs to be added, but again, what is theory, and what is application.
 
This reminded me to do my EverStart Marine Deep Cycle boat battery. The water was down a bit of last season and I used distilled water to form the meniscus. The surface of the water bends the reflection of my four foot fluorescent tubes and makes then look like a V shape. This the 7th boating season for the battery which normally is just the summer. I’ve touched it up once every year.

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I'm searching for an answer that I'm ashamed to admit I do not know.
It has to do with "filling height".

Do you fill a cell so it touches the bottom ring of the downward split-tube (or a tad higher) but NOT such that the electrolyte goes over the split or cutout of said tube?
 
Yes, I will always check if there is some way to get the caps off...those screw top ones are the hardest. I usually check every year or two, and yes, at least a couple cells will be low. The "maintenance free" batteries are not truly maintenance free by my estimation.

All my cars have AGMs now, but my truck still has a traditional flooded "low maintenance" or "maintenance free".
 
I'm searching for an answer that I'm ashamed to admit I do not know.
It has to do with "filling height".

Do you fill a cell so it touches the bottom ring of the downward split-tube (or a tad higher) but NOT such that the electrolyte goes over the split or cutout of said tube?
Snagglefoot cleary showed what you want in the photos above, if it is "full", then the meniscus will show: "A meniscus is a curve in the surface of a molecular substance (water, of course) when it touches another material"
 
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