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Crank sensor-Help!
- Thread starter DP08GT
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Excuse me #4 Its probably center alongside the center cyl. on that side of the block not far from where the block & the oil pan meet.You see the "O" ring, the sensor & the bolt. #5,#4,#3. http://compnine.com/largeimg/930108MW00-013.gif
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My brother has one of those. He is the original owner and has something like 180K miles on it. He had to do that sensor and found that it can be done two ways.
One way requires you to remove a lot of stuff replace the sensor and then reassemble it. I think it required removing the timing chain cover.
The simple quick fix way he found on the internet (not sure where, might of been You-Tube) show that you remove the tab on the new sensor to the point that you can insert it from the outside of the engine. You then break off the old sensor and allow the plastic tab to fall down into the engine. Next you clean the area with alcohol (71% or 90% common clear drug store alcohol) use some Q-Tips to clean the hole. Now you put some JB Weld (the slow type) on the sensor to hold it in place and insert it. If required, use some masking tape or something to hold it in place while the JB Weld dries. Do not crank the vehicle for 24 hours.
I remember he talked to me about his initial concern for having the small piece of plastic fall down inside the engine, and then decided to go for it.
He did this about a year ago and it is still working fine.
You might want to remove the oil fill cap to the engine so any atmospheric pressure changes occurring before the JB Weld dries does not put greater pressure inside the crank case.
Look it up on the internet, doing it with JB is a heck of a lot easier then tearing down the front of the engine, and it works.
One way requires you to remove a lot of stuff replace the sensor and then reassemble it. I think it required removing the timing chain cover.
The simple quick fix way he found on the internet (not sure where, might of been You-Tube) show that you remove the tab on the new sensor to the point that you can insert it from the outside of the engine. You then break off the old sensor and allow the plastic tab to fall down into the engine. Next you clean the area with alcohol (71% or 90% common clear drug store alcohol) use some Q-Tips to clean the hole. Now you put some JB Weld (the slow type) on the sensor to hold it in place and insert it. If required, use some masking tape or something to hold it in place while the JB Weld dries. Do not crank the vehicle for 24 hours.
I remember he talked to me about his initial concern for having the small piece of plastic fall down inside the engine, and then decided to go for it.
He did this about a year ago and it is still working fine.
You might want to remove the oil fill cap to the engine so any atmospheric pressure changes occurring before the JB Weld dries does not put greater pressure inside the crank case.
Look it up on the internet, doing it with JB is a heck of a lot easier then tearing down the front of the engine, and it works.
it is under the car and can be taken out by unbolting it whebn engine is cold only...Sensor will slide out ver easily and all you have to do is unplug the harness and put it back the same way it came out do not overtighen the bolt...Note some sensors come with shims but most of the time they are not used.. Check the wiring to make sure it is ok before you change the sensor... How do you know you need a cps anyway?? Symptoms??
It's on the back side of the lower block and you should have little difficulty if you get the car up off the ground safely.
You need to get fault codes, I wodn't jump to the conclusion this will cure that issue. My experience is stalling & no start with a faulty CPS, then starts when it cools off maybe.
Just so you know those engines from those years up until about 2006 have bad injectors...Symptoms are hard starting when warm and sometimes it will stall and not start until cool the injector or injectors will short and actually cause the coils to have no or little spark... Caution if you buy rebuilt injectors from an auto parts store you will probably get a bad one or two with the same problem as i did.. Finally i installed bosch injectors that were rebuilt from a very reputible rebuilder all for around $200.00
If you need the number of the guys i delt with just pm me... They even answered their phones late Saturday and called me back the next day to see how things worked out!
If you need the number of the guys i delt with just pm me... They even answered their phones late Saturday and called me back the next day to see how things worked out!
also you can check the injectors with an ohm meter one at a time
DP08GT, My brother came over and visited this evening. I asked him about the details of him using JB Weld for that repair. He said that at first he thought it was the sensor. But the magnet that is in the upper gear for the timing chain that acts on the sensor is what was bad. It had come loose because the plastic that holds it in place had cracked and the magnet had come loose and dropped inside the engine. He said the quick fix is for replacing the magnet. He had to modify the new magnet plastic housing because it is designed to insert from the other side. Once he removed part of the mounting so that he could insert the magnet from the side available through the sensor hole, he aligned the upper cam gear with the sensor hole, cleaned the hole in the cam gear with Q-Tips and alcohol, and used the slow JB Weld to hold the new magnet in place. He said he also put in a new sensor because the old magnet had rubbed against the old sensor. His engine is the 3.8 and the year is 1990. He said I has been running fine ever since.
There is another problem he had with that engine that you might run into. It was making a lot of noise. He thought it was the AC clutch. It turned out that the harmonic balancer is made of several parts. There is a spring that provides an initial dis-engagement for reducing the rotational mass to make it easier on the starter. When that unit goes bad it makes a racket. I don't know if your 1991 3.1 has the same set-up, but if you have the front of the engine make a racket, it probably is the harmonic balancer.
He also had a problem with the low pressure return line for the PS not having good clearance with some parts.
Good Luck.
JimPghPa
There is another problem he had with that engine that you might run into. It was making a lot of noise. He thought it was the AC clutch. It turned out that the harmonic balancer is made of several parts. There is a spring that provides an initial dis-engagement for reducing the rotational mass to make it easier on the starter. When that unit goes bad it makes a racket. I don't know if your 1991 3.1 has the same set-up, but if you have the front of the engine make a racket, it probably is the harmonic balancer.
He also had a problem with the low pressure return line for the PS not having good clearance with some parts.
Good Luck.
JimPghPa
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