My Craftman YT400 lawnmower has no current at all after replacing the battery and the starter. Nothing at all happening. Mechanic has give up. He checked all the wiring carefully. He is puzzled. The battery was charged (jumpered, but 11 volts), and wouldn't start. Then replaced the starter with a new one. Then NO current at all. Any advice?
Craftman YT4000 has no voltage/electric
- Thread starter Certelt
- Start date
You can most likely find a wiring diagram online. Verify things are where they are supposed to be and measure voltages at every step.
Hmm something isn't adding up. He may have checked all the wiring but has he checked the switches? The starter solenoid? 11 volts should at least make the engine turn very slowly. I'm assuming the engine can be turned by hand and isn't locked up solid?
I had something similar happen to my Craftsman YT4000 mower (with a B&S 18.5 HP engine).
The problem turned out to be multiple corroded crimp connections where the green grunge infiltrated the wire to connector connection in the wiring between the ignition switch, the several safety interlock switches and the battery terminal on the starter solenoid. While the point to point resistance readings were on the order of 1 to 2 ohms, the overall circuit resistance was too high hence the "no voltage no start" condition.
Cutting off the old crimp connectors, installing new crimp connectors and soldering them solved the problem. I also wound up replacing the seat switch due to it having an unstable resistance that varied over several ohms when it was ohmed out and contact cleaner did not work on it.
The problem turned out to be multiple corroded crimp connections where the green grunge infiltrated the wire to connector connection in the wiring between the ignition switch, the several safety interlock switches and the battery terminal on the starter solenoid. While the point to point resistance readings were on the order of 1 to 2 ohms, the overall circuit resistance was too high hence the "no voltage no start" condition.
Cutting off the old crimp connectors, installing new crimp connectors and soldering them solved the problem. I also wound up replacing the seat switch due to it having an unstable resistance that varied over several ohms when it was ohmed out and contact cleaner did not work on it.
If it won't crank, check the PTO and seat switch.
If it will crank then stall, check the key switch. Sometimes they will crank then stall, and if that happens, turn the key back another notch to the headlights after it starts since the RUN/NO Lights position can be bad.
If it will crank then stall, check the key switch. Sometimes they will crank then stall, and if that happens, turn the key back another notch to the headlights after it starts since the RUN/NO Lights position can be bad.
To start with 11 volts is beyond dead, if my battery goes below 12.2 the starter wont even click, below 11.5 the lights wont even come on. If you just charged it and the voltage is 11v you have a dead cell and need a new battery. If you are still having trouble after that check to see if the lights come on and if they do start checking the safety switches, if the lights dont come on check the main fuse.
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- Nov 24, 2023
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I'll bet that 11 volts drops to nothing when you hit the starter . IF it's even getting there .
End result???
