Cracked Engine Block Any good fix??

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My buddy has an 2000 cadillac with an 4.6 northstar engine.He found out it has an crack block,and loseing some coolant.Is there anything he can seal up this leak ,Like Bars?He dont have the money to replace engine at this time.
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If it's a cast alu block that you are dealing with, I'm afraid that if there's something wrong with the cast (*sometimes due to porosity of the cast or so*), you cannot alu-weld it or use JB-weld on it for it will fail again.

Replace the block is the only answer for reliable service, IMHO.
 
No harm in trying the Bars. There is a good chance it will get him some more life out of the engine...depending on where the leak it.

Where is the leak? Any idea what caused it?
 
It's an external leak? I guess I would be tempted to try Permatex epoxy. It comes in a ten pack of mixercups. Really strong stuff. I actually glued a hunk of a block back into a Cat D349 with it once about twenty years ago. The engine is still running today. It was at the bottom of the liner support. A piece was knocked out by a broken connecting rod. I guess drain the coolant, clean the area with brake clean or laquer thinner and give it a shot. Then hit it with Bars leaks.
 
Some guy at some repair shop told me that the Cadillac Northstar engine block is made out of a combination of aluminium and ceramic; I don't know how true that is though.
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I've used bars-leak a few times... and the stuff works. If that was my car, I'd put the bars-leak in it... and trade it in as soon as the leak stops. But I'm a **** like that.
 
Years ago, Permatex used to make a ceramic block sealer. Short of something like a pour-in sealer, the only real fix is another engine block.
 
There's a product down here that's a combination of fibres and particles (went by the name of silverseal at one stage).

I used it on a cracked R16 block. (Block was an "economical designs", with protrustions in the casting for the head bolts, with vertical ribs running down from these bosses).

Block developed a noticeable weep in the corner of a rib.

Silver seal fixed the leak.
 
I have used some stuff called Block Seal in the past. I was amazed the the stuff really worked. It sealed a 327 that had frozen and cracked. The goop sealed it right up.
 
For an external leak, there are 2 real choices. K&W Block Seal is the most reliable commercialy available product. The old time car dealers remedy is "sodium silicate" commonly called "liquid glass". This product is used as a paint on sealer for concrete floors, also used as a coating for eggs to keep them from spoiling before use by date. Can be obtained at drugstores. To use make sure ALL antifreeze is removed and system is full of water only. Add pint of liquid glass and drive untill leak becomes dry. Drain system,flush with water,then refill with 50/50 an normal. VERY effective.

Bob
 
external leak he just wants to keep this car another year or so,humm he got this car last year.He has no Ideal how this happen?The just turned 100000 miles,How know maybe was cracked before
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Whatever product he uses he should at this point always have a good pair of walking shoes in his trunk because sooner or later he is going to need them!
 
sorry the only real long term fix is a new block. I would be hesitant using the bars leaks I had a bad experience with it. Oh it sealed leaks OK and it also "sealed/plugged up" the heater core and plugged the radiator too! I have used the silver seal and it seemed to work OK for a radiator leak and it may work for the block but again it is a short term fix.
 
The old time car dealers remedy is "sodium silicate" commonly called "liquid glass". This product is used as a paint on sealer for concrete floors, also used as a coating for eggs to keep them from spoiling before use by date. Can be obtained at drugstores.

Does this stuff have a brand name? Kinda suprised its in drugstores. Must have a lot of uses.

*
 
Levi,

Probably many brand names. Sure there's multitude of uses I'm not aware of. I'd guess it'd be available at building supply outlets because of concrete waterproofing qualities. Just that I have no real reason to research .

Bob
 
If you really want to keep this car by fixing the engine, you can sleeve the block, but that's gonna cost probably more than a used engine, and maybe even more than what the car is worthed.

I agree with bar-leak also.
 
I've used the K&N block seal myself on a 98' Plymoth Grand Voyager w/3.3L. The leak occured between the head and block. I had noticed the coolant level dropping, so I would add on a weekly basis. The leak suddenly (while on vacation) was big enough that it would drain the radiator in about 30 minutes. I used the K & N Block Seal, followed the directions to the letter. It sealed the leak for over 2 years. Traded the van in on another car, but I feel confident that it's still holding.
 
My mother in law has 91 seville with a leaking block. She recently (about 3mos. ago)had it patched with a sealant and it has so far worked great. Check out www.cadillac.com there are many threads there about leaking blocks and poor G.M. castings. I but it can be fixed without replacing the block.
 
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