Corvette UA0 with Redline 5w30: High Lead

Originally Posted By: Shark
Originally Posted By: addyguy
I don't know if it has been asked, but any chance leaded race gas was used for the track events?

Or a gas additive/octane boost that had some lead in it?



I was going to ask something similar. I also would suggest getting the heads redone to prevent a valve drop.


No lead gas or octane boosters.

I know all about the vlave issue. I lost one LS7 on my last Vette. Had heads done at WCCH on replacement motor. This current motor is still under warranty.

DH
 
Hey Dirty_Howie,

There was a guy on here a few years ago that owned several high performance cars, including a few late model Corvettes.

He posted a UOA once from his Vette that looked REALLY, REALLY good. His oil of choice: A 50/50 mix of Mobil 1 0w20 AFE and Mobil 1 Racing 0w50.

I can't seem to find the UOA now. But I remember it VERY WELL.
 
Bearing wear (lead) is caused by inadequate viscosity (too thin oil) and/or poor oil quality.

Don't insist on boutique oils such as Red Line or Royal Purple. Try a proven mainstream synthetic such as Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Ultra, which undergoes a lot more research and development. I am not a big fan but there is also Castrol Edge.

Also, definitely consider a thicker oil, such as 0W-40.
 
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Bearing wear (lead) is caused by inadequate viscosity (too thin oil) and/or poor oil quality.

Don't insist on boutique oils such as Red Line or Royal Purple. Try a proven mainstream synthetic such as Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Ultra, which undergoes a lot more research and development. I am not a big fan but there is also Castrol Edge.

Also, definitely consider a thicker oil, such as 0W-40.

If you are racing, go even higher, such as synthetic xW-50 or xW-60.

Definitely change the oil brand though. Your engine probably doesn't like Red Line.
 
Originally Posted By: Dirty_Howie


I have never heard that the bearings are aluminum lined.

DH


Aluminum or polymer. I don't think there is any lead or copper in that engine.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Joshua_Skinner
What's the connecting rod small end bushing made of?


I don't believe stock rods are bushed. Aftermarket stuff has brass bushings.
 
Originally Posted By: Phishin
Hey Dirty_Howie,

There was a guy on here a few years ago that owned several high performance cars, including a few late model Corvettes.

He posted a UOA once from his Vette that looked REALLY, REALLY good. His oil of choice: A 50/50 mix of Mobil 1 0w20 AFE and Mobil 1 Racing 0w50.

I can't seem to find the UOA now. But I remember it VERY WELL.


Sorry, not interested in mixing oils. There should be one that works fine unless there is something wrong with my motor.

DH
 
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Bearing wear (lead) is caused by inadequate viscosity (too thin oil) and/or poor oil quality.

Don't insist on boutique oils such as Red Line or Royal Purple. Try a proven mainstream synthetic such as Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Ultra, which undergoes a lot more research and development. I am not a big fan but there is also Castrol Edge.

Also, definitely consider a thicker oil, such as 0W-40.


As I have said earlier. I used to use Mobil1 0w40 in my last LS7 motor. So I am not opposed to trying it. But I sure got the impression that Red Line was the best because of its base stock. And if you look at my report you will see that the viscosity is pretty high. My oil pressure is actually higer than with the Mobil1 0w40. I'm only doing street driving with a monthly AutoX which barely gets the oil over 200*

DH
 
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Originally Posted By: Dirty_Howie


I have never heard that the bearings are aluminum lined.

DH


Aluminum or polymer. I don't think there is any lead or copper in that engine.

I'm no expert but I believe he bearings do have lead and that is the reason the bearings were changed to non leaded a year or two ago as required by the EU

DH
 
Originally Posted By: Dirty_Howie
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Bearing wear (lead) is caused by inadequate viscosity (too thin oil) and/or poor oil quality.

Don't insist on boutique oils such as Red Line or Royal Purple. Try a proven mainstream synthetic such as Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Ultra, which undergoes a lot more research and development. I am not a big fan but there is also Castrol Edge.

Also, definitely consider a thicker oil, such as 0W-40.

As I have said earlier. I used to use Mobil1 0w40 in my last LS7 motor. So I am not opposed to trying it. But I sure got the impression that Red Line was the best because of its base stock. And if you look at my report you will see that the viscosity is pretty high. My oil pressure is actually higer than with the Mobil1 0w40. I'm only doing street driving with a monthly AutoX which barely gets the oil over 200*

DH

Perhaps try Mobil 1 5W-50 then? Thicker oil should certainly help with bearing wear.

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_5W-50.aspx
 
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: Dirty_Howie
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Bearing wear (lead) is caused by inadequate viscosity (too thin oil) and/or poor oil quality.

Don't insist on boutique oils such as Red Line or Royal Purple. Try a proven mainstream synthetic such as Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Ultra, which undergoes a lot more research and development. I am not a big fan but there is also Castrol Edge.

Also, definitely consider a thicker oil, such as 0W-40.

As I have said earlier. I used to use Mobil1 0w40 in my last LS7 motor. So I am not opposed to trying it. But I sure got the impression that Red Line was the best because of its base stock. And if you look at my report you will see that the viscosity is pretty high. My oil pressure is actually higer than with the Mobil1 0w40. I'm only doing street driving with a monthly AutoX which barely gets the oil over 200*

DH

Perhaps try Mobil 1 5W-50 then? Thicker oil should certainly help with bearing wear.

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_5W-50.aspx

Mobil 1 15W-50 seems easier to find.

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSENPVLMOMobil1_15W-50.aspx

http://www.walmart.com/ip/20713647
 
Gokhan and Memphis

If I was still road racing I would consider one of these choices. But my car is a daily driver and gets at least 2 cold starts every day. Shouldn't I be worried about a thicker oil during the startups? And as I have indicated before the car has to be driven very hard to get the oil up to 200* so during the first 5-10 minutes of operation the rpm must be kept under 3K or the oil pressure exceeds 80psi and thats with the Redline 5/30. With either of the oils you are sugesting my pressure would be too high.

DH
 
Originally Posted By: Dirty_Howie
Gokhan and Memphis

If I was still road racing I would consider one of these choices. But my car is a daily driver and gets at least 2 cold starts every day. Shouldn't I be worried about a thicker oil during the startups? And as I have indicated before the car has to be driven very hard to get the oil up to 200* so during the first 5-10 minutes of operation the rpm must be kept under 3K or the oil pressure exceeds 80psi and thats with the Redline 5/30. With either of the oils you are sugesting my pressure would be too high.

DH


Cold starts aren't the problem. Warm up is.
When oil is cold it's thick and creates a hydrodynamic wedge keeping parts separated. When the oil starts heating up it thins,and that's when wear potential is at its peak because the additive package hasn't activated yet.
Once the oil is hot the additive package is operational.
So start up isn't the problem. Warm up is. So a thicker grade oil will keep parts separated better than a thinner one during warm up.
If a short tripper I'd go thicker personally and considering where you live thicker won't cause any issues whatsoever.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy


Cold starts aren't the problem. Warm up is.
When oil is cold it's thick and creates a hydrodynamic wedge keeping parts separated. When the oil starts heating up it thins,and that's when wear potential is at its peak because the additive package hasn't activated yet.
Once the oil is hot the additive package is operational.
So start up isn't the problem. Warm up is. So a thicker grade oil will keep parts separated better than a thinner one during warm up.
If a short tripper I'd go thicker personally and considering where you live thicker won't cause any issues whatsoever.


smile.gif
cool.gif


Christian
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: Dirty_Howie
Gokhan and Memphis

If I was still road racing I would consider one of these choices. But my car is a daily driver and gets at least 2 cold starts every day. Shouldn't I be worried about a thicker oil during the startups? And as I have indicated before the car has to be driven very hard to get the oil up to 200* so during the first 5-10 minutes of operation the rpm must be kept under 3K or the oil pressure exceeds 80psi and thats with the Redline 5/30. With either of the oils you are sugesting my pressure would be too high.

DH


Cold starts aren't the problem. Warm up is.
When oil is cold it's thick and creates a hydrodynamic wedge keeping parts separated. When the oil starts heating up it thins,and that's when wear potential is at its peak because the additive package hasn't activated yet.
Once the oil is hot the additive package is operational.
So start up isn't the problem. Warm up is. So a thicker grade oil will keep parts separated better than a thinner one during warm up.
If a short tripper I'd go thicker personally and considering where you live thicker won't cause any issues whatsoever.


Interesting. I have never heard that before. But it might make sense since my oil is almost always in the warming up process.

DH
 
Given the HTHS of Red Line 5w-30 (3.7), remember that moving up isn't going to require just jumping to a 0w-40, which will likely have the same HTHS. That is, of course, assuming that there is a viscosity problem here, of which I am not convinced.
 
I probably wouldn't worry too much about the oil pressure being maxed out during warm-up. Just drive gently until the engine is at the normal operating temperature and this is so for any oil and engine.

Bearings are never supposed to have metal-to-metal contact (as they are hydrodynamically lubricated); so, antiwear additives are of minimal concern for the bearings, except at very low speeds (or start-up) or very high loads. Perhaps, thicker oil will help keeping the oil film from collapsing in your bearings and prevent metal-to-metal contact.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Given the HTHS of Red Line 5w-30 (3.7), remember that moving up isn't going to require just jumping to a 0w-40, which will likely have the same HTHS. That is, of course, assuming that there is a viscosity problem here, of which I am not convinced.


Sorry, I'm not sure what your point is and what your advise is concerning the Mobil1 0w40

DH
 
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