Correct Viscosity for a Honda S2000?

[Primus]

From your list I would try first Penrite 10 Tenths Premium 0w-40.

Castrol Edge 0w-40 would be the second on my list. However, there is a good option from the same manufacturer, in particular, Aral Super Tronic G 0w30 A3/B3.The latter is old good fully synthetic stuff.

Instead of Shell Helix Ultra 0w-40 / 5w-40 I would prefer Shell Helix Ultra 5w30 which is quite similar in hot temperature properties, but has less VII and better NOACK.

I know that in the past Liqui Moly Synthoil 5w-40, but it may be a little bit more heaver for your application. Anyway, it would be wise whether today is the same stuff.

As for Motul, besides, may be, 300V line (which also suffered a lot from cost savings) Motul can offer nothing to make customers pay a little bit extra. As for ROWE, I cannot trust a manufacturer which specifies its oil is fully synthetic, but MSDS shows EWC (European Waste Code) 13 02 05 which is mineral-based non-chlorinated engine, gear and lubricating oils. In May 2018 I paid ROWE attention to a discrepancy in description of its HIGHTEC SYNTH RS SAE 5W-40, but it changed MSDS in English, but not in German.

 

[Best F100]

Originally Posted by ChristianReske
@ Primus:
Thanks.
I dont like to use racing Oils with High zinc, because it will kill the catalyst over time. I want to avoid a costly reapair.
And i dont want to use Motul 300V or Ravenol.
I have posted the list of Oils that i want to use allready here in the thread.

Wich of this oils would you prefer?

@KameleON:

Thanks.
Personally, i dont see any benefit of using a diesel oil in a high reving gasoline engine when dedicated gasoline oils are available.
And, belive me, shell rimula is hard to find here. I never seen it on a shelf.
In contrast, i can buy (allmost) all the oils from my wishlist from dealers in my town without problems.
All this steers me away from informing myself deeply about the use of HDEO diesel oil and using it.







ChristianReske,

I am going to submit one more Amsoil candidate for you to consider if you have to use a 10W30 viscosity. They have an Amsoil (MCT) Metric 10W30 motorcycle oil.
11.2 cst@100C, 148 VI, 3.5 HT/HS, with a 244C flash point. Clearly meant for a higher rpm application than your 8000 rpm engine. Not sure if zinc is high enough for you to rule it out.

On the other hand, I would not be shy about using one of those "farm and garden" motor oils. I, for one, would use John Deere Plus 50 Plus II - if I had your engine and had to stick with the 10W30 viscosity. API SN/SM, 12.1 cst@100C, VI 133, 3.6 HT/HS (yes 3.6) and 10.5 TBN. I will add, that the 0W40 viscosity of this oil is stated that it has a "100%" PAO base oil, with a 3.67 HT/HS.

It seems quite ironic that I would mention a "tractor oil" in a 8000 rpm engine application. However, consider 1) that both motorcycle owners and Subaru WRX owners endorse Rotella, and 2) bunnspecial previously mentioned an '02 S2K owner with over 300K on his engine (using bulk 10W30 oil). You should not have anything to loose sleep over.

 

[Garak]

Shannow made some great suggestions. Also, with respect to an E6 recommendation, I'd further that to any E6 5w30. If it were me, it would probably be my first choice.

 

[oghl]

If I remember correctly, Munich doesn't get much colder than -10C or hotter than 35C, at which 10w30 is usually perfectly acceptable.

When the manual says 30 grade is "good for fuel efficiency", it's code word for "you can go thicker". If you are driving for efficiency, you are also stressing the engine less. If you are driving for fun using high rpm, or racing at max power and rpm, engine stress goes up dramatically, and efficiency isn't a concern.

Most 0w40 A3/B4 oil are on the low end of the 40 grade, while providing at least 3.5 HTHS. They would be a good choice as many posters have indicated. If you have the luxury of changing oil to account for summer/winter temperatures, you could also consider 15w40 for summer performance driving. Their hths is typical > 4.0.

This engine has a lot of similarities to motorcycle engines. So motorcycle engine oil recommendations in your area can also serve as a reference point for good protection.

 

[SpitfireS]

If there is a reason to use a 30 weight (and not a 40 weight) in the F20 it IS the high revving.
High revs means the oil pump also revs high and the oil pressure is high.
As the revs climb the oil pressure climbs above the oil pump bypass valve value, the valve opens and part of the oil is dumped back into the sump.
The oil pump bypass is nothing but a spring loaded piston, it opens at a fixed value, piston surface area x oil pressure.
With a 40 weight oil will this point will be reached at lower rpm than with a 30 weight oil.
So a thicker oil will make the bypass open at a lower rpm, dumping part of the oil flow into the sump instead of letting it flow through the engine... at high rpm.
Exactly when you don't want it, some 40 weight oil wil not go through the engine.
It's pure physics.

I've been using nothing but a 30 weight, 0W-30's actually, pretty much as long as I own the S2000 (bought in 2004).

Yes, the 5W-40 OEM second option recommendation could be confusing.
Not so much when you realize they wanted a 5W for low temperatures and 5w30's, in 1999, were not shear stable, so they (Honda) picked 5W-40.

This engine gets its 'protection' from oil being pumped around.
Not from viscosity over 30 weight (10cSt).