If the gaskets were replaced with updated parts(especially the intake manifold gaskets), I don't see why not yellow universal would work. Solder would be my only concern.
Coolant upgrade for 76 Oldsmobile?
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Originally Posted by nthach
If the gaskets were replaced with updated parts(especially the intake manifold gaskets), I don't see why not yellow universal would work. Solder would be my only concern.
3rd set of intake gaskets. Originals replaced when I "upgraded" to an aluminum performance intake manifold in 2007. Aluminum intake corroded and caused a leak last year after 11 years. Went back to an oem style metal "turkey tray" intake gasket this time. Heater core has been replaced twice as well (aluminum). Water pump replaced in 2007 (due to fail any time now). No copper parts left as far as I know. Will stick with yellow coolant and 5 year changes.
If the gaskets were replaced with updated parts(especially the intake manifold gaskets), I don't see why not yellow universal would work. Solder would be my only concern.
3rd set of intake gaskets. Originals replaced when I "upgraded" to an aluminum performance intake manifold in 2007. Aluminum intake corroded and caused a leak last year after 11 years. Went back to an oem style metal "turkey tray" intake gasket this time. Heater core has been replaced twice as well (aluminum). Water pump replaced in 2007 (due to fail any time now). No copper parts left as far as I know. Will stick with yellow coolant and 5 year changes.
Originally Posted by DBMaster
Peak Final Charge
Nitrited or nitrite free? And what do you think the benefit of this coolant is compared to the motomaster yellow stuff I bought on sale?
Peak Final Charge
Nitrited or nitrite free? And what do you think the benefit of this coolant is compared to the motomaster yellow stuff I bought on sale?
I'm referring to the version sold at Walmart (nitrite free). It basically states that it requires no SCAs and is a true global coolant. I try to keep it simple. I can't offer the unsubstantiated theories that often appear here. Don't overthink things. In my own car - 2012 Mazda3 with FL22 - I started adding RMI-25 when the car was fairly new. I add 4oz every 15,000 miles and I plan to never change the coolant unless a replacement of a major cooling system component forces me to do so. I've spent most of my life over-maintaining. I switched my 1989 Honda Accord to Dexcool in 1997. This was at the time when the fear mongering warned that my coolant would turn to gel or black sludge. I never changed the coolant after that. Of course, I had to replace portions on the occasions of needing to change hoses or water pumps (done with every timing belt change). I had to get rid of the car in 2012 after I damaged it in an accident. It had over 350,000 miles on it.
For a car like yours you can pretty much use whatever you want.
I figure if it's rated for a million miles in OTR trucks it's more than adequate for a passenger car. Shoot me.
For a car like yours you can pretty much use whatever you want.
I figure if it's rated for a million miles in OTR trucks it's more than adequate for a passenger car. Shoot me.
Originally Posted by DBMaster
I'm referring to the version sold at Walmart (nitrite free). It basically states that it requires no SCAs and is a true global coolant. I try to keep it simple. I can't offer the unsubstantiated theories that often appear here. Don't overthink things. In my own car - 2012 Mazda3 with FL22 - I started adding RMI-25 when the car was fairly new. I add 4oz every 15,000 miles and I plan to never change the coolant unless a replacement of a major cooling system component forces me to do so. I've spent most of my life over-maintaining. I switched my 1989 Honda Accord to Dexcool in 1997. This was at the time when the fear mongering warned that my coolant would turn to gel or black sludge. I never changed the coolant after that. Of course, I had to replace portions on the occasions of needing to change hoses or water pumps (done with every timing belt change). I had to get rid of the car in 2012 after I damaged it in an accident. It had over 350,000 miles on it.
For a car like yours you can pretty much use whatever you want.
I figure if it's rated for a million miles in OTR trucks it's more than adequate for a passenger car. Shoot me.
I'm pretty sure the 05 Silverado I drive for work has the original dexcool in it at 190k miles (except for what was topped up with the water pump replacement a couple years ago. The reservoir is stained and you can't see much through it, coolant is slightly dark but no Dex sludge or other issues. I won't go that long on my own but obviously it can be done. The owners feel the truck is probably on it's last legs so they only fix safety issues as needed (brakes, wheel bearings, tires etc).
As for the peak final charge I don't think our local Canadian tire Walmarts carry it unfortunately.
I'm referring to the version sold at Walmart (nitrite free). It basically states that it requires no SCAs and is a true global coolant. I try to keep it simple. I can't offer the unsubstantiated theories that often appear here. Don't overthink things. In my own car - 2012 Mazda3 with FL22 - I started adding RMI-25 when the car was fairly new. I add 4oz every 15,000 miles and I plan to never change the coolant unless a replacement of a major cooling system component forces me to do so. I've spent most of my life over-maintaining. I switched my 1989 Honda Accord to Dexcool in 1997. This was at the time when the fear mongering warned that my coolant would turn to gel or black sludge. I never changed the coolant after that. Of course, I had to replace portions on the occasions of needing to change hoses or water pumps (done with every timing belt change). I had to get rid of the car in 2012 after I damaged it in an accident. It had over 350,000 miles on it.
For a car like yours you can pretty much use whatever you want.
I figure if it's rated for a million miles in OTR trucks it's more than adequate for a passenger car. Shoot me.
I'm pretty sure the 05 Silverado I drive for work has the original dexcool in it at 190k miles (except for what was topped up with the water pump replacement a couple years ago. The reservoir is stained and you can't see much through it, coolant is slightly dark but no Dex sludge or other issues. I won't go that long on my own but obviously it can be done. The owners feel the truck is probably on it's last legs so they only fix safety issues as needed (brakes, wheel bearings, tires etc).
As for the peak final charge I don't think our local Canadian tire Walmarts carry it unfortunately.
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