Conventional oil vs Synthetic oil for break-in

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"Let me ask this of you.....what is the difference between conventionals and synthetics ...lets say a 5-30....that makes conventionals better for break in in your mind?"
Ok,please educate me! I have been thinking about this. In my mind i think syn group IV pao/esters have a higher flim strenght than conventional group I,II,or III. This doesn't allow for the rings to properly seat. Am i on the right track here?
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I did that search on mototune SargeGTO recommended, and I read a LOT of interesting posts.

Now at least I am aware that I do not understand all this stuff.

There more I learn the less I know.
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I seriously doubt a synthetic is so slippery it would prevent break-in. Besides with the way I break in my motors it doesn't matter. Fire it up, check for leaks, vary rpm for 30 minutes in park (for the flat tappet motors), change the oil, and leave rubber down the driveway.
 
I currently have two Ford engines I personally built in freinds cars that are being broke in with synthetic oil.
after 4000 miles the 302 has consumed about 4 gallons of oil, wich seems excessive but does not smoke we just keep adding. all hwyway miles 600 miles a week.
the 351W has about 1500 miles and it has used 3 quarts of oil but all short trips.
if it was 3000 mile oil change I would have to lay on the ground and play mechanic, I rather dump a quart of Amsoil and leave the Ea filter on for a year and at the end of the year I think i saved money over conventional...
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Mototune is just an attention grab. Do you think anyone would care or read their site if they said..."hey guys, drive like girls?" It's just ignorant. Mfgs specify carefull break-in....why? Are they stupid?

Best advice is drive it like you normally would, except in the extremes of granny or ricer. Taking grannys car out for a spanking is not a bad idea.

The highest good is somewhere in the mean. Don't baby-baby it, but don't drive like a lunatic either. The goal of a race MC break-in a lil different, to get it to run max rpm asap....simple. Autos are different.
 
On a new car engine: I'd run the factory oil for the first 500 miles.

On a newly rebuilt engine: I'd run the factory grade while fluctuating between idle speed and 1600 RPM for the first 20 minutes and then drain it. Then I'd run another fill of factory grade dino to seat the rings to the cylinders for the next 500 miles. After that, then I'd switch to a synthetic in either the same grade or a different grade (depending on the engine) if I wanted to.

Once the rings are properly seated, there's no more wear taking place with a dino than there is with a synthetic oil.
 
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"Let me ask this of you.....what is the difference between conventionals and synthetics ...lets say a 5-30....that makes conventionals better for break in in your mind?"
Ok,please educate me! I have been thinking about this. In my mind i think syn group IV pao/esters have a higher flim strenght than conventional group I,II,or III. This doesn't allow for the rings to properly seat. Am i on the right track here?
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The rings seat in the first couple hours of engine run time with synthetics or conventionals equally.
 
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The rings seat in the first couple hours of engine run time with synthetics or conventionals equally.




Thank you to all the replies here. I appreciate it. However I think this is the most direct and straight forward reply to my question. ie. Synthetic and conventional oils have almost EQUAL wear & tear rate over the same SHORT oci (
Conclusion: Synthetic can be used for break in because it has similar wear & tear rate as conventionals thus can seat the rings.

Agree or not? Yes/no
 
The above mentioned is assumed that the car is driven as a passenger car under normal conditions, not used for racing.
 
But I am sure will get those that disagree and will probably have good arguements. I am just a driver, not a mechanic or engine builder
 
GM spec's Mobil1 in the corvette as factory fill because they had a serious issue with cold starts and lubrication starvation on the top end so they went synthetic (and different bearing designs) to prevent warranty issues and really upset customers who just plopped down over $50k and had their vette ---- out in the first 1000 miles. Mobil guaranteed them results for the endorsement on the oil cap.
 
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On a new car engine: I'd run the factory oil for the first 500 miles.





Seems we are from the same school. I go 1000 usually except with Harley's where I go 100. I like to get all the debris out of an engine right away. Plus I baby the engine on the first 500 miles. That MOTOMAN guy looks like a crackhead to me. I think I saw his mugshot at the Post Office.
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Conclusion: Synthetic can be used for break in because it has similar wear & tear rate as conventionals thus can seat the rings.

Agree or not? Yes/no




Put me down as a "yes".
 
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