Comparing some 0w30 Euro oils (that are easily obtainable)

[Carlostrece]

I'm interested in comparing the following 0w30 Euro oils for possible use in these cars:
97 Buick Park Ave
03 Honda CR-V
11 Hyundai Elantra

I'd like to have one oil in the garage for all 3 cars.

The numbers below represent their claimed cSt at 40C & 100C. Beyond the slight differences in claimed viscosity, what else do I need to know about these oils or how they compare?

*Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX 58.7, 11.9
Quaker State Euro LX 58.7, 11.9
Castrol Edge Euro LL 61, 12.3
*Mobil 1 ESP 63, 12
Valvoline Euro 65, 12.3

The asterix * means they're available from Walmart at prices I can afford, if they offer benefits that justify buying them. For the oils not available from Walmart, I can get them from Amazon or elsewhere.

The reason I like the idea of 0w30 (instead of 5w30 or 10w30) is my neighbors start-up and immediately put their cars in gear and drive away. They never wait for oil pressure before putting in gear. They also sometimes drive my car too.

Winter temps here range from 8F to 50F. Typical is 20F to 40F. So it's not very cold, but I can't get them to wait for oil pressure before they put car in gear and start driving. If I was the driver, I'd wait 30 seconds before putting in gear and driving.

 

[Japanese]

Did you check out these threads?

R

Thread 'Mobil 1 Euro 5W30 instead of 0W30 for 2025 Golf R?'

Sep 9, 2025

Did my first oil change with M1 0w30 Euro. I see that the 5W30 has better noack value and the same 504/507 that my car calls for.

Under the hood it does say 0W30 504/507, is the 5W30 a better oil to use? I am still under warranty

I am located in PA. The car is in a temp controlled garage that never gets below 50 degrees F and I work from home. Unlikely to ever be driven in weather under 0 degrees F.

Is there another 504/507 oil that has a lower noack number? I am worried about deposits on the valves due to this being a DI engine. I also don’t want to void my warranty…..

Thanks!

• raynist
• Replies: 11
• Forum: European and Import Motor Oils

Thread 'Pennzoil Euro L 5w30 vs Euro LX 0w30'

May 1, 2025

This is for a Macan S using the EA839 engine, it's a Porsche C20 oil recommended but I use C30.

I accidentally ordered Euro L 5w30 instead of LX 0w30 which meets C30. How bad is it to just use that? I do changes around 6k miles and never go above 3.5k rpm unless fully warmed up.

Euro L 5w30 meets

• General Motors dexos2
• MB-Approval 229.31/229.51
• BMW LL-04

• FlyPenFly
• Replies: 13
• Forum: European and Import Motor Oils

• 

Thread 'Castrol Edge Euro 0/5w-30 A3/B4 vs M1 ESP 0W-30'

Jul 5, 2025

My last exposure to Castrol was in the early 2000s and the "German Castrol" we all knew and loved. Outside of boutiques and VRP (which I'm currently using for some clean up that may or may not be necessary), it seems M1 ESP 0w30 is the current darling for punching above its class, great value readily available at Walmart, and using a higher concentration of PAO/Esters. In checking the approvals for ESP I noticed it seems to be almost identical to the Castrol Edge Euro A3/B4 family in that regard, but otherwise I'm not finding much current information on it's base oil composition and...

• cammyfive79
• Replies: 25
• Forum: European and Import Motor Oils

• 

 

[Carlostrece]

With regard to Castrol... Due to their stated viscosity cSt at 40C... I'm interested in Castrol Euro LL 0w30. I'm less interested in Castrol Euro A3-B4 0w30.

 

[Carlostrece]

Did you check out these threads?

R

Thread 'Mobil 1 Euro 5W30 instead of 0W30 for 2025 Golf R?'

Sep 9, 2025

Did my first oil change with M1 0w30 Euro. I see that the 5W30 has better noack value and the same 504/507 that my car calls for.

Under the hood it does say 0W30 504/507, is the 5W30 a better oil to use? I am still under warranty

I am located in PA. The car is in a temp controlled garage that never gets below 50 degrees F and I work from home. Unlikely to ever be driven in weather under 0 degrees F.

Is there another 504/507 oil that has a lower noack number? I am worried about deposits on the valves due to this being a DI engine. I also don’t want to void my warranty…..

Thanks!

• raynist
• Replies: 11
• Forum: European and Import Motor Oils

Thread 'Pennzoil Euro L 5w30 vs Euro LX 0w30'

May 1, 2025

This is for a Macan S using the EA839 engine, it's a Porsche C20 oil recommended but I use C30.

I accidentally ordered Euro L 5w30 instead of LX 0w30 which meets C30. How bad is it to just use that? I do changes around 6k miles and never go above 3.5k rpm unless fully warmed up.

Euro L 5w30 meets

• General Motors dexos2
• MB-Approval 229.31/229.51
• BMW LL-04

• FlyPenFly
• Replies: 13
• Forum: European and Import Motor Oils

• 

Thread 'Castrol Edge Euro 0/5w-30 A3/B4 vs M1 ESP 0W-30'

Jul 5, 2025

My last exposure to Castrol was in the early 2000s and the "German Castrol" we all knew and loved. Outside of boutiques and VRP (which I'm currently using for some clean up that may or may not be necessary), it seems M1 ESP 0w30 is the current darling for punching above its class, great value readily available at Walmart, and using a higher concentration of PAO/Esters. In checking the approvals for ESP I noticed it seems to be almost identical to the Castrol Edge Euro A3/B4 family in that regard, but otherwise I'm not finding much current information on it's base oil composition and...

• cammyfive79
• Replies: 25
• Forum: European and Import Motor Oils

• 

I know how to use a search engine. I did some research before posting the OP.

I read all the threads you posted links to. They reaffirm my preference for 0w30 (compared to 5w30), but they don't offer comparisons of the specific 0w30 oils that I'm asking about, nor do they offer suggestions for other brands of 0w30 that are easily obtainable. They also don't offer advice specific to my 3 cars, use case, or climate.

 

[shortyb]

Other than the ease of availability, none will net you anything over the other. Especially in your fleet. Get either the Pennz or M1 and prevent a 13 page discussion that will evolve into the blue color of the Valvoline bottle was the exact same color that Ferrari painted one of their super rare cars in so it must make your car fast .

 

[Astro14]

I know how to use a search engine. I did some research before posting the OP.

I read all the threads you posted links to. They reaffirm my preference for 0w30 (compared to 5w30), but they don't offer comparisons of the specific 0w30 oils that I'm asking about, nor do they offer suggestions for other brands of 0w30 that are easily obtainable. They also don't offer advice specific to my 3 cars, use case, or climate.

I don’t think you will see one bit of difference among the oils that you have chosen. There is no difference between an oil with a viscosity of 12.3 and 11.9 in ordinary use. You don’t mention your change interval, only the temperature.

Any one of them will be fine. Pick the one you can find for cheap and don’t worry any further.

 

[kschachn]

I know how to use a search engine. I did some research before posting the OP.

I read all the threads you posted links to. They reaffirm my preference for 0w30 (compared to 5w30), but they don't offer comparisons of the specific 0w30 oils that I'm asking about, nor do they offer suggestions for other brands of 0w30 that are easily obtainable. They also don't offer advice specific to my 3 cars, use case, or climate.

What kind of comparison are you referring to? The only real metric you have are the licenses, specifications and approvals. the oils hold or do not hold. Re: Mobil 1 ESP vs. Mobil 1 AFE. Considering the list you posted there is very little difference for any reasonable application. As @Astro14 notes pick the one that is easiest to obtain and is the lowest cost.

 

[Glenda W.]

I use ESP 0W-30 in 7 vehicles I own and or maintain(I know it keeps going up). My reason is availability at Wally for $28. I also like the GTL/PAO/Ester formula with its proven performance and approvals/specs.

 

[kschachn]

I use ESP 0W-30 in 7 vehicles I own and or maintain(I know it keeps going up). My reason is availability at Wally for $28. I also like the GTL/PAO/Ester formula with its proven performance and approvals/specs.

Ever since they started marketing ESP at Walmart it's changed the metric for price and availability.

 

[Glenda W.]

Ever since they started marketing ESP at Walmart it's changed the metric for price and availability.

Yes! It sells very well too. It and R&P seem to be the fast movers at my Walmart. In fact if any of the OP’s vehicles burn oil or are known oil burners I’d suggest R&P. I know the Buick 3800 is not.

 

[shortyb]

I use ESP 0W-30 in 7 vehicles I own and or maintain(I know it keeps going up). My reason is availability at Wally for $28. I also like the GTL/PAO/Ester formula with its proven performance and approvals/specs.

Glad you don't live near me, there would be some Kung Fu Fighting going on in the oil aisle as we go to grab the ESP at the same time .

 

[edyvw]

I know how to use a search engine. I did some research before posting the OP.

I read all the threads you posted links to. They reaffirm my preference for 0w30 (compared to 5w30), but they don't offer comparisons of the specific 0w30 oils that I'm asking about, nor do they offer suggestions for other brands of 0w30 that are easily obtainable. They also don't offer advice specific to my 3 cars, use case, or climate.

Those values are irrelevant.
What matters is HTHS. Your focus on KV40 absolutely doesn’t make any sense. Difference is so small that different batches of oil could have different values. If you look fine print on PDS you will see that blenders put that those are typical values. They could be different from one blended batch to another.
Climate is irrelevant unless you are talking cold start. At 8 degrees, 5W or 0W will be pretty much the same. Things start to get different once you drop below -10 or so degrees. That is where 0W oils are preferable. In summer, your cooling system maintains oil temperature. The problems start at very high altitudes. That is where you could see issues with engine cooling, especially on old cars.
So, any of those oils will work. As for Castrol 0W30, A3 has more PAO than LL and it would be my choice over LL.

 

[147Grain]

Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 is what I use and recommend.

 

[Jetronic]

I'm interested in comparing the following 0w30 Euro oils for possible use in these cars:
97 Buick Park Ave
03 Honda CR-V
11 Hyundai Elantra

I'd like to have one oil in the garage for all 3 cars.

The numbers below represent their claimed cSt at 40C & 100C. Beyond the slight differences in claimed viscosity, what else do I need to know about these oils or how they compare?

*Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX 58.7, 11.9
Quaker State Euro LX 58.7, 11.9
Castrol Edge Euro LL 61, 12.3
*Mobil 1 ESP 63, 12
Valvoline Euro 65, 12.3

The asterix * means they're available from Walmart at prices I can afford, if they offer benefits that justify buying them. For the oils not available from Walmart, I can get them from Amazon or elsewhere.

The reason I like the idea of 0w30 (instead of 5w30 or 10w30) is my neighbors start-up and immediately put their cars in gear and drive away. They never wait for oil pressure before putting in gear. They also sometimes drive my car too.

Winter temps here range from 8F to 50F. Typical is 20F to 40F. So it's not very cold, but I can't get them to wait for oil pressure before they put car in gear and start driving. If I was the driver, I'd wait 30 seconds before putting in gear and driving.

My cars have oil pressure before the engine actually runs, and I use 10W-30.... the oil light is out on the first crank

 

[Carlostrece]

My cars have oil pressure before the engine actually runs, and I use 10W-30.... the oil light is out on the first crank

Well that's defineately not the case with the 2011 Hyundai Elantra. The 03 Honda CR-V and 97 Buick Park Ave do get oil pressure relatively quick after starting, but not before running (AFAIK).

Jeep 4L engines have a design feature where they crank 3 revolutions before firing up. My mechanic told me that's to get the oil flowing (at least somewhat) before engine gets spark and fires up. It's a great feature, IMO. I think it's the next best thing to having an electric oil pump.

My neighbors park outdoors. They start their cars and immediately put in gear and drive off. I can't retrain them to wait at least 10 seconds before putting in gear. When I was driving, I'd wait 30 seconds in winter, or 10 seconds the rest of the year.

Do you have an electric oil pump in your car?

 

[Jetronic]

4 cyl engines need to crank 2 revolutions to know which piston just passed tdc. that's important if you want to use sequential injection, like gdi. Not important with port injection and batch firing.

I have a chinese made GM ecotec 1.5 t-gdi. I wait a few seconds, but only because I'm close to an intersection and I want the high idle to be off before I get there.

 

[Carlostrece]

...if any of the OP’s vehicles burn oil or are known oil burners I’d suggest R&P. I know the Buick 3800 is not.

None of the cars are burners or leakers. Those past issues are fixed.

The Honda used to burn oil like a pig eating apples, but that was cured by installing a new PCV and breather hose, and by switching from 5w20 Maxlife to 5w30 Maxlife.

My Buick was a leaker, but new valve cover gaskets cured that.

The 2011 Hyundai never burned or leaked oil, but it has had noticeable fuel dilution, which perplexes me because AFAIK its 1.8L engine is port injected. I thought fuel dilution was only a direct injection problem. However, its past OCI was too long.

...You don’t mention your change interval, only the temperature...

The 2011 Hyundai Elantra 1.8L engine's prior OCI is unknown, but was probably 5000-6000 miles, which for that car would have been 3-3.5 years! The oil was thin and filthy when my cousin changed oil in July 2025. It's driven mostly short hop city drives approx 1700 miles a year. In future, I intend to change its oil every 3.5K miles, which will be 2 years. It's parked outdoors in a moderate temp, damp climate.

The 2003 Honda CR-V 2.4L engine's prior OCI is unknown, but was probably 5000-7500 miles, which for that car would have been 4-6 years! Might have been longer. The oil was filthy and 2 quarts low when my cousin changed oil in July 2025. It's driven mostly short hop city drives approx 1300 miles a year. In future, I intend to change its oil every 2600K miles, which will be 2 years OCI. It's parked outdoors in a moderate temp, but damp climate half the time, in a heated garage the other half the time.

My 97 Buick Park Ave is in the best condition of the 3 cars. It's been on a 3 years OCI schedule for 10+ years, which is only 1500 miles per OCI because it only drives 500 miles a year. It gets one 30+ minute highway drive each month, but mostly city. It's parked in a heated garage. At each oil change, the Maxlife Full Syn still looked almost new. When my mechanic changed my valve cover gaskets, he said it looks cleaner than average (for a car with 105K miles on it).

 

[Carlostrece]

4 cyl engines need to crank 2 revolutions to know which piston just passed tdc. that's important if you want to use sequential injection, like gdi. Not important with port injection and batch firing.

It sounds like you're saying direct injection engines rotate twice before starting. Google AI says all 4 stroke injected engines do that (regardless of type of injection), but I don't trust AI. So I don't know how it normally works with port injected engines.

I do think Jeep 4L engines are port injection engines that crank 3 full revolutions of crankshaft before the spark plugs get spark. This allows oil pump to get some oil flowing before the engine starts. It's a good design feature, IMO. This might contribute to J4L engines lasting a lot of miles.

Does anyone know if Honda 2.4L or Buick 3800 rotate their crankshaft 2 or 3 times before ignition? Any ideas why Hyundai 1.8L is slower to get oil pressure after starting than the other engines mentioned?

 

[Jetronic]

It sounds like you're saying direct injection engines rotate twice before starting. Google AI says all 4 stroke injected engines do that (regardless of type of injection), but I don't trust AI. So I don't know how it normally works with port injected engines.

I do think Jeep 4L engines are port injection engines that crank 3 full revolutions of crankshaft before the spark plugs get spark. This allows oil pump to get some oil flowing before the engine starts. It's a good design feature, IMO. This might contribute to J4L engines lasting a lot of miles.

Does anyone know if Honda 2.4L or Buick 3800 rotate their crankshaft 2 or 3 times before ignition? Any ideas why Hyundai 1.8L is slower to get oil pressure after starting than the other engines mentioned?

if there's a camshaft sensor, it turns twice. but it's not strictly necessary with port or throttle body injection.

 

[Carlostrece]

if there's a camshaft sensor, it turns twice. but it's not strictly necessary with port or throttle body injection.

OK. I remember my mechanic saying that my Buick 3800 S2 has a cam sensor. So my Buick probably rotates twice before firing up. It does rapidly get oil pressure after starting engine.

I also remember my mechanic saying that my Jeep 4L rotates 3 times before firing up. I could hear it cranking over longer and then suddenly vroom it'd start.

The sound of the Honda 2.4L cranking, then starting leads me to suspect it rotates 2-3 times before firing up. Plus it gets oil pressure fast.

The Hyundai 1.8L seems to start immediately, but then takes longer than expected to reach full oil pressure. After cold start the engine rattles for 5 seconds sounding like after an oil change with a new filter that wasn't prefilled.