Colt AR-15 ... Need Some Education

[ALS]

There isn't as much of a drop between barrel lengths as most expect with the .223

From a 22" barrel going down to a 16" barrel the velocity drops from 3177 fps to 2965 fps which is a 212 fps drop.

35 fps per inch is not bad at all.

 

[SuperBusa]

Originally Posted By: Familyguy

I'm assuming that since you keep mentioning "pre-ban" even in light of all the other noted shortcomings, your end game is that you want to be able to add assault rifle bling without risking going to the pokey. Got it.


No ... I have no plans of adding assault rifle bling. Besides, isn't the "assault rifle" ban over. The only illegal "bling" I could think of would be making it 3 burst or full auto and I'm not into that anyway. I was told by someone I know that a pre-ban lower would be easier to modify if that's what someone wanted to do.

Originally Posted By: Familyguy
However, there is no way you can know if that gun is legal or not since it isn't clear who built it, when it was built, etc. A "pre-ban" lower receiver is really a meaningless term when it comes to keeping your patootie out of the klink.


From the laws you quoted in the post above, I would assume this 1973 (pre-ban obviously) lower receiver was sold on a full gun in 1973, and someone has probably put modern AR parts on it. If so, I see no issue with the laws since the ban is over. If it has a telescoping stock, flash hider, bayonet lug, etc at this point in time is irrelevant. You can buy new ARs setup like that today. I could call Colt Industries with the s/n and verify it was indeed sold as a complete rifle in 1973.

Originally Posted By: Familyguy
And to answer your question....No, I would not buy an AR-15 that had been assembled from random parts (even if they were all Colt manufactured). Do yourself a favor and stick with something that has a clear chain of custody as an assembled rifle. That's likely to lead to the least chance of both breaking the law and of getting a rifle that has reliability issues.

Good luck.


Well, I'm now considering a new AR instead after doing some research. I'm still going to look at this used Colt to see exactly what it is first. I've heard this is the best bang for the buck, and a quality made AR - about $1100 new in box.

http://www.rockriverarms.com/images/products/purela4.gif

 

[Familyguy]

Originally Posted By: SuperBusa

Well, I'm now considering a new AR instead after doing some research. I'm still going to look at this used Colt to see exactly what it is first. I've heard this is the best bang for the buck, and a quality made AR - about $1100 new in box.

http://www.rockriverarms.com/images/products/purela4.gif


Looks like a nice rifle. Let us know how it works out if you get one.

Best regards,

 

[SuperBusa]

Originally Posted By: Familyguy
Originally Posted By: SuperBusa
Well, I'm now considering a new AR instead after doing some research. I'm still going to look at this used Colt to see exactly what it is first. I've heard this is the best bang for the buck, and a quality made AR - about $1100 new in box.

http://www.rockriverarms.com/images/products/purela4.gif


Looks like a nice rifle. Let us know how it works out if you get one.

Best regards,


I took a look at the used Colt, and it was actually in nice shape. Took the bolt carrier out to inspect the guts and it looked to have minimal wear. It was however a "Frankenstein" AR as the only true Colt part was the lower receiver. The top receiver and barrel had no manufacture markings that I could see. The barrel was however marked "5.56 NATA 1/7". Seller would have taken $800, which would probably be reasonable considering the condition seemed to be very good.

But, for me I'd rather spend the extra $300 (actually it would be $400 due to tax) on the new one. When I buy firearms, I keep them forever, so the extra money won't really matter too much over time. Plus, the local dealer has 4 of the RRA's in stock, so I wouldn't have to wait. The RRA has the 1/9 twist, which from what I've read seems to be the best overall compromise barrel twist if shooting a variety of bullet weights.

Thanks for the inputs here ... appreaciate it.

 

[paulo57509]

Time for some homework......

Way too much advertising, but a good site:

http://www.ar15.com/

 

[bubbatime]

If you are going to pay $1100 for a rock river, you can pay $100-$150 more and get a colt. TRUST ME, that will be the best $100 you ever spent, especially if you plan on keeping this gun for a longtime. I would rather buy a Stag for $850 than a rock river for $1100.

 

[Saturn_Fan]

I like getting a cheap, but name brand lower like Double Star, and slapping an LMT upper with an MPI tested LMT bolt carrier group. I go with a DPMS or Bushy lower parts kit. I slap on a set of Troy back up iron sights and a quality red dot and call it a day.

You have an extremely quality AR at a decent cost.

I am a big LMT fan. Their stuff is 100% mil-spec and is all MPI tested, which is a big deal for me.

 

[SuperBusa]

Originally Posted By: Saturn_Fan
I like getting a cheap, but name brand lower like Double Star, and slapping an LMT upper with an MPI tested LMT bolt carrier group. I go with a DPMS or Bushy lower parts kit. I slap on a set of Troy back up iron sights and a quality red dot and call it a day.

You have an extremely quality AR at a decent cost.


What would it cost to do something like that?

 

[SuperBusa]

Guys - here are a few photos of the used AR-15 with the Colt lower and unknown manufacture upper/barrel. The barrel is marked "5.56 NATO 1/7". I know the upper and barrel are not Colt (didn't see any markings).

Does anyone know what maker the upper and barrel might be by looking at the photos? Where might there be markings on these parts to see who the manufacturer might be?

I'm still considering this used AR-15 if a test firing indicates it's an accurate shooter. I guess it doesn't really matter to me if it's all Colt or not if it's in good shape and a good shooter. Is it worth $800 ... ?? If I spring for a new one with same setup it's going to run $1500.

Any feedback on this used AR would be welcome.

http://i351.photobucket.com/albums/q471/zeeosix/AR15-1.jpg

http://i351.photobucket.com/albums/q471/zeeosix/AR15-2.jpg

http://i351.photobucket.com/albums/q471/zeeosix/AR15-3.jpg

 

[BoiseRob]

Originally Posted By: bubbatime
If you are going to pay $1100 for a rock river, you can pay $100-$150 more and get a colt. TRUST ME, that will be the best $100 you ever spent, especially if you plan on keeping this gun for a longtime. I would rather buy a Stag for $850 than a rock river for $1100.



FWIW, I own both a RR & Colt and my Rock River is by FAR the better AR-15. Why pay more for a name when the product is inferior?

 

[Bill in Utah]

I've got a Stag and Rock River (and a few Doublestars) and they all are excellent weapons.

Just like oil, we have the brand loyal folks who feel that brand XX is better than other brands. And we have folks who buy what works and don't get caught up in Brand XX vs Brand YY.

Some guys I shoot with have Colts and I do not think they are worth the extra $$. Nice weapons but so are most.

Take care, Bill

PS: Off to increase the lead content of the range!

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: SuperBusa
Guys - here are a few photos of the used AR-15 with the Colt lower and unknown manufacture upper/barrel. The barrel is marked "5.56 NATO 1/7". I know the upper and barrel are not Colt (didn't see any markings).

Does anyone know what maker the upper and barrel might be by looking at the photos? Where might there be markings on these parts to see who the manufacturer might be?

I'm still considering this used AR-15 if a test firing indicates it's an accurate shooter. I guess it doesn't really matter to me if it's all Colt or not if it's in good shape and a good shooter. Is it worth $800 ... ?? If I spring for a new one with same setup it's going to run $1500.

Any feedback on this used AR would be welcome.

http://i351.photobucket.com/albums/q471/zeeosix/AR15-1.jpg

http://i351.photobucket.com/albums/q471/zeeosix/AR15-2.jpg

http://i351.photobucket.com/albums/q471/zeeosix/AR15-3.jpg


Its been used and that is NOT a problem. Just look at the lower and bolt REAL carefully. Any stress will show up. See if the pins are still tight.

Is it worth $800? Don't know your area. I'd offer $700 and let it go...

Take care, Bill

 

[Buffman]

$700 is what I'd offer.

 

[GMBoy]

Pass on it - get something new hat you KNOW what it is plus a warranty. Only talking a few hundred bucks for piece of mind...and safety if it wasn't built correctly.

I'm no fan of Rock River, but I do own both a Colt and a Bushmaster AR-15 and the Bushmaster is the better weapon of the two and cost a little less. I have my eyes on the Smith and Wesson M&P AR's too - they look nice.

 

[SuperBusa]

Well, I finally made a decision and went with the new Rock River Elite CAR A4 with the Dominator 2 sight/mount setup that also excepts the EOTech is you want to spend more $. That's the way the gun store ordered the ones they had. Really looks to be great quality for the money, and a few other people in the store said they had a RRA AR-15 and were 100% pleased with them. From all my research, it always ended up pointing back the RRA because it had the best value.

Anyone here with a Rock River Arms AR-15 ... I do have one question. I notice that when the upper and lower are together that there is just a tiny tiny bit of play between them if you grab each half and torque the two half in opposite directions. The pins go in pretty nicely by hand, so I'm assuming this is probably normal/acceptable? They only had this one RRA left, so I couldn't compare to another in the store.

 

[Tempest]

Most all AR's have little wobble. As long as it isn't huge, you're OK.

 

[Buffman]

They make those ACCuwedge thingamabobs, but as Tempest said, small play is normal.

 

[SuperBusa]

Thanks for the info guys ... I figured it was probably normal but had to check. Someone else mentioned the wedge thingy, but said they're really not needed unless the play is excessive - which I don't think it is. The only way there wouldn't be any play is if you had to hammer the pins in, and I haven't seen any AR like that so far.

So, I've been reading the manual that came with the Rock River. The manual is basically a reprint of the military M16/M4 manual, so there are a few things that aren't too clear at this point. It's got bad graphics in it and hard to understand what they are referring to sometimes.

I want to sight the iron sights in this weekend, and read the instructions. They say to turn the elevation wheel to bring the rear sight all the way down to the 6/3 position (300 yard to 600 yard range = 1 full turn), and then turn it two click CW to establish the "mechanical zero" (that's how I read it anyway). If I do that, I notice the dot in the receiver just above the elevation wheel is lined up with a "Z" on the elevation wheel. Does this "Z" stand for "zero" as in the mechanical zero? It said nothing in the manual about the "Z" on the elevation wheel.

Anyway, I'm assuming this is the zero starting point for the 25 yard sight in (?). Any elevation adjustments from this starting point are done by moving the front sight post. And of course, windage is pretty straight forward. Is this correct?

The manual makes it sound like if you sight the rifle in at 25 yards it will be good for out to 300 yards and you don't have to mess with the elevation wheel unless you're shooting beyond 300 yards (?) ... hard to believe, but maybe it shoots that flat.

If anyone can clarify the sigh-in procedure and give any advice that would be great.

 

[HyperJinx]

(2) Bushmasters I own have been flawless.

 

[Pete C.]

Originally Posted By: SuperBusa
The manual makes it sound like if you sight the rifle in at 25 yards it will be good for out to 300 yards and you don't have to mess with the elevation wheel unless you're shooting beyond 300 yards (?) ... hard to believe, but maybe it shoots that flat.

If anyone can clarify the sigh-in procedure and give any advice that would be great.


Someone give the man a cigar. You're right on all of your assumptions.

But to make sure. I sight it at 100 and check the 25/300 settings. These also change when you change your ammo selection. so you have to check each time you change lot#/type/manufacturer etc. Not all 55 gr FMJ rounds are created equal.

After you get close, the final adjustments are done with the front sight post. You need a special tool for this adjustment.