Clutch stuck in Muncie 4 speed 65 Malibu SS? Tips/Tricks?

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Imagine my surprise when I start this car up on a 4-post lift and it wants to take off. (Emergency brake was on lightly, fortunately) . My 65 sat for just a little 2 months in a humid space, and it seems that my clutch plate is stuck to the flywheel. To me, that's only a problem for cars sitting for years. The clutch pedal, Z Bar, etc seem to be working fine. I tried trick #1, try to start the car in 4th gear. The starter couldn't budge it.

Not running, you can put the car in any gear. There were no issues with the throwout bearing or anything mechanical. I'm not sure of the brand but the transmission has a blow proof bellhousing and a purple aftermarket clutch assembly, does not have many miles on it. My next idea was to put it in first, not running, have someone sit in car the with the clutch depressed while a few of us rock the it back and forth, I'm hoping the driveline slack banging back and forth might break it free. Some say to jack the car up and start it in 2nd gear, and hit the gas then brakes or warm the car up in neutral then restart in gear and drive it until it breaks loose.

I suppose there could be something else wrong. I'm open to suggestions.
 
Start it up with the rear up on a jack and a person in the car with the clutch and brakes depressed and drop it off the jack quickly?

Just spitballing here. That idea might well end up in a shower of sparks and broken dreams.
 
Quite a few years ago, I had an Opel GT and the pilot shaft bearing failed while sitting at a traffic light. With the clutch depressed, it just started moving forward. The bearing seized the pilot shaft, so the clutch/throwout bearing was no longer effective. Took some serious leverage to get the transmission out.
 
Pressure plate likely seized on the trans input shaft splines and-or seized in the pilot bushing. Put it in neutral, start the engine and let it heat up. Maybe a few heat cycles could free it up. A blow proof bellhousing typically has to be blueprinted upon installation to ensure proper alignment. If that wasn’t done you may have issues related to misaligned trans. You posted so here’s an opinion…find a factory bellhousing, a decent stock clutch assembly (not Zoom or Centerforce), and replace that blow proof bellhousing. They cause more trouble than they’re worth.
 
Pressure plate likely seized on the trans input shaft splines and-or seized in the pilot bushing. Put it in neutral, start the engine and let it heat up. Maybe a few heat cycles could free it up. A blow proof bellhousing typically has to be blueprinted upon installation to ensure proper alignment. If that wasn’t done you may have issues related to misaligned trans. You posted so here’s an opinion…find a factory bellhousing, a decent stock clutch assembly (not Zoom or Centerforce), and replace that blow proof bellhousing. They cause more trouble than they’re worth.

Any benefit to maxing out the adjustment on the clutch fork?
 
Any benefit to maxing out the adjustment on the clutch fork?
Try it before disassembly but don’t be surprised if you bend some clutch linkage and-or the fork. I wouldn’t risk damaging that Muncie in an attempt to free up the stuck parts.
 
Try it before disassembly but don’t be surprised if you bend some clutch linkage and-or the fork. I wouldn’t risk damaging that Muncie in an attempt to free up the stuck parts.
Got in with a Boroscope and it is not the clutch disk sticking, it pulls away just fine. Pressure plate fingers are intact. It is a Zoom clutch in there, unfortunately. Don't know enough about what I'm looking at to know if what else I'm seeing looks right or wrong. I would like to get it unstuck on the lift even if it does need to come apart later. Will need to do some research.

I have a 2' long flex line I can attach to a penetrant oil can, if I ziptie it to the Boroscope I could tactfully spray.
 
I’d bet the disc is seized on the input splines.
Might have a solution for that.

IMG_20250809_182847745_HDR.webp
 
Maybe short cut methods shouldn`t be used here. Might be better to pull the trans and pressure plate to see what's actually the problem.

My trans guy lives about ten miles away. I'd like to drive it over there
 
I’d bet the disc is seized on the input splines.

I've been thinking about this and it isn't making sense to me. Isn't the clutch always on the input shaft? I know the clutch is pulling away from the flywheel so I'm thinking that what's actually wrong is the clutch is seized to the pressure plate that is bolted to the flywheel.
 
The disc is always on the splines. The disc is supposed to slide easily on the splines. This allows the transmission input shaft to be disengaged from the flywheel when you press the clutch pedal.

IF the disc is seized on the splines against the flywheel, it will continually turn the trans input shaft even if the pressure plate is in the released position.

That may not be your problem but other than the transmission input shaft being seized to the pilot bushing, I can’t think of anything else that can cause your problem.
 
I've been thinking about this and it isn't making sense to me. Isn't the clutch always on the input shaft? I know the clutch is pulling away from the flywheel so I'm thinking that what's actually wrong is the clutch is seized to the pressure plate that is bolted to the flywheel.
This might help:
1755203057715.webp
 
If the clutch disk is frozen on the splines of the transmission input shaft in a position where it is in firm contact with flywheel, then the input shaft will always spin.

If you douche the spline with WD-40 or spray penetrant, you run run the risk of contaminating the clutch material. Maybe you could clean it well enough with brake cleaner, but I'm not sure that would work.
 
Have had this problem before, clutch disc is stuck to flywheel. Drive car in fourth gear about 50 mph depress clutch pedal and hit brakes at same time, fixed. Moisture caused problem.
 
I’ve had this happen with a tractor and an old jeep. The tractor we towed in gear with clutch depressed and ignition off. For the jeep the driver alternately floored the gas and let off in 1st gear while holding the clutch all the way down. Neither broke loose right away but they did eventually give.
 
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